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Discussion Starter #1
My 80 Elky got hit and is "totaled" but I am rebuilding it. currently cant get passenger door open on another thread they suggested cutting a hole in the door to gain access to the latch so I can get it open. I am picking up a door this weekend off of an 84 monte carlo, should still fit the Elco from what I have read but I need to get the door open and I may be having to move the pillar around to get the latch to line up and the door to close properly. any suggestions other than a hammer to move the latch if needed???
Thanks for the help.
 

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I think the Monte Carlo door will bolt on, yet the body trim will not match the El Camino's front fender body lines.

Let's hear from others familiar with that swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks old bear, for $70 I cant pass it up an elco door to match is $250 not including shipping and this is local. I am planning on painting it black to match. At this point if I can just get the door to open and close I will be happy as my son is still driving this car and takes his little brothers to baseball practice and it is quite a pain only being able to open the drivers door.
 

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See this thread..
 

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Just to clarify, with just a passenger door, you would be spending twice.
Once for the Monte door and then later again for the replacement El Camino door.
 

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will need to change the door glass, Monte's has different glass
here is a pic with monte doors
this is the monte front clip & doors

127414
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the response 87, I thankfully still have the old door glass in one piece, getting it out will require some cutting but I am sure I can get it out. the regulator on the other hand I think may be bent but wont know till i get the door skin off and get the door open so I can get inside the door.
 

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the quick and dirty get the door open,
maybe a sawzall thru the gap, just cut the striker bolt..
it is probly hard tho, so it'll take a good blade..
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I think youll have to put some pull forward on the quarter, while pulling the dent..
doing both at the same time to minimize stretching any more than necessary,
and help get both going the right way at the same time..
that's where a real body man can come in handy,
just to ruff it in, and get the new door to close..
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there is weld on washers, D rings and pins to have a place to pull from,
and vacuum/suction cup dent puller/slide hammers..
so many new tricks of the trade out there now days..
some pics
more search pics
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks JJ, good info, might pull the front fender off just to give myself more room to work with, dont have a welder so I am going to have to do all this old school with a hammer and pry par and dent pullet if necessary. I do have a come along I can use to pull the pillars back in place as long as I can get a strap around them. I will just have to anchor to another vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yea I thought cut the striker bolt was easy-er ,
but you could take the fender off and remove the hinges
that may let the door swing out enuff to un-load and un-latch..
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bigger trees make good anchors too..
I wish I had a big tree close enough, the only ones I have Im pretty sure would fall over if i wrenched on them too hard lol. I am thinking I might be able to use big pry bar and some lean on it to get the door close enough for the latch to work and open but I think I will likely have to pull front if not both pillars out to get the new door to line up correctly. also will probably try to pry the bedside out a bit to at least get it away from the tire more.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Part of the problem I am running into is I still need to drive this on Monday so I am worried taking the door off may be more work than I am ready to take on but dont know if you dont try right 🤷‍♂️
 

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yea time,,
that's what got the body shop ruff in comment..
with the door off,
they could probly hang the new door and ruff it in, in a day..
they got all the tools.. put it on the frame machine
they can pull it 6 ways at the same time..
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other option,
get the door skin out so the window goes down,
then the kids load up oldscool or nascar style..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yea time,,
that's what got the body shop ruff in comment..
with the door off,
they could probly hang the new door and ruff it in, in a day..
they got all the tools.. put it on the frame machine
they can pull it 6 ways at the same time..
.
other option,
get the door skin out so the window goes down,
then the kids load up oldscool or nascar style..
My son already asked if he could just take the window out and load up through the window, problem is we live in kansas city and its currently cold and has been snowing the last few weeks on and off so no window would make for a crappy drive in temps in the teens LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I decided not to go with the monte door after looking at it the body lines are just too different plus the door seal is tweaked and i dont thing a new door would line up properly without a lot of additional work. I did however get the door open the striker pin was bent into the lock, after some persuasion and a slide hammer I got it pushed back into position and the door works.
Has anyone else had to bend or move the door seal on the body side back into place and if so how did you move it? I am assuming I will be replacing the door and the bed side at the same time so I will have that side of the car dissassembled im hoping I can get behind it with a hammer. any suggestions would be appreciated!
 

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I've done the cut/trim/fit more times than I care to remember, and I can tell you that if you give the same job to 10 different bodymen the car will get fixed 10 different ways and none of them will be wrong! Also, looking at a picture doesn't make up for seeing the damage in person.

To your question about having better access after the bedside/quarter panel is removed, the answer is yes. After outer panels are removed the inner ones are a bit easier to access and manipulate. The pillar is made of heavier metal and is much stronger and will take more to move it but the better access helps.

Here's one that was a bit worse just to let you know it's possible! Yes it's not an ElCo but the same repair principals are the same.

127471
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well 87ls that looks like a rough hit for sure. I am hoping to reuse the pillar and simply move/bend it back into place, the majority of the pillar damage is simply fitting it back to the door on the bottom and unwirnkling the metal. probably going to have to buy a heat wrench before it is all said and done I did get the door working and picked up a cheap welder to get back into the habit. that being said my son is going to do a fair bit of the welding as well because well why the hell not let him have some fun too right, after all he is going to be driving it too.
I will update with more photos as I start to get body pannels in and replaced and as always thanks for all the advice this is my first time doing body work so im sure it will be a learning experience.
 

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If you got the door working you have already made major headway. That would indicate that the pillar didn't move in too much. It does look like the quarter pulled it back quite a bit. I don't think there is much behind the post and it should be pretty easy to re-align with the quarter out of the way. The wheel house will be another one that will move fairly easy with the quarter out of the way, I would prefer a good pull outwards before cutting the quarter off though. My biggest concern is the way the structure at the corner of the quarter glass appears in your pics. Hopefully you get a good pull out on that wheelhouse and it brings some of the window structure with it. That is the biggest problem I can see. If not you might have to get another pull to get that to move with the quarter out of the way. Good luck and post up some pics, I'll be interested in seeing your progress!

Joe
 

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don't forget to start with new or rebuilt hinges, or at least pins and bushings..
pass side is not allways bad, but needs checking before line-up..
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id just use the MC door for good enuff for now and line-up,
while searching for a real good Elky door, close to home..
swapping the window out may can wait, depending on finding the Elky door..
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if you mean the pillar under the door ?? that's the rocker panel,
its the thicker stuff too..
front of the door/windshield post is the A-pillar, behind the door is the B-pillar..
 
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