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Discussion Starter #1
:yell:My people!

So the standard rust is under the left side of the rear window. The bend and seam about 10" wide and about 4" going down just inside the seam to the inside.

So friends are willing to give me the grinders/wheels to get it cut clean. I was seriously considering getting 10gauge metal into a decent rectangle with .05 or so of overlap cut.

Here;s where it gets tricky. The top bend. Do I have to get a metal brake from Harbor Freight or something to get a decent corner? It would be one of those manual press types about 28-32" or summat wide. I've seen metal work with wood dyes and coaxing but it seemed to me like a real edged corner to me where that might not be crisp.

Second part? I've tack welded and messed around with scrap before. I was thinking about taking my chances with mig. I know if I got too hot there I could have warping but outside of that, some clean dime/half dime shaped welds, good lines and good beading would I still be over my head? I figure it's a good time to improve my welding or would you guys say that kind of seam is too sensitive?

Any and all advice, comments, laughter is appreciated!

Here's the link to the pic...

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg513/sunstateturk/354184c3.jpg
 

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Is the bend curved, too, where you need to patch? You really need a metal stretcher to do that right.

If you use MIG, just make tiny little spot welds and move around a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah the left-most end starts off @ maybe 2 degrees and goes into a what I'm guessing to a 5 degree lip. *Ex-surveyor eye-ball, not calibrated*
 

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Jesse (kstmbowtie) Has a problem like that. I'm getting ready to talk to him & Will ask him to check your thread & see if he can give some info ! :dontknow:
 

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i dont know if your on a budget like i am, but to save you alot of work they sell the center section, where i see most of your problem. as far as the sides and the curve, i was going to do mine in sections. once i cut part of the corner out i was going to make lil cardbord templets and weld them together. and once that section was done weld it in and move to the next. i bought a 20 amp flux wire welder from harbor freight and it seems to do pretty good. you deffinately want to move around alot to keep the heat down and keep it from warping. once the welds are done a flap sander does pretty well at gringing the welds smooth for a nice finnish. i hope this helps. im having the same issue, but ive had to stop working on it for personal things going on. as far as the gauge of metal, i think 10 will be a lil thick. 20 or so will be closer to what the car is (i believe) good luck, and im going to watch this thread to see if you come up with some good tricks or something i didnt think about.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's my anniversary with the smarter half so I"m not doing it now but I"ll be digging for my metal gauges here shortly to let you know. Yeah I've seen the whole panel for as low as $150. My truly curved sections are great. Just that very middle panel is nasty.

I'll keep you guys posted on the gauge...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK so apparently the gauges I have are strictly for gears or something 'cause I couldn't get an accurate measurement.

Does anyone know off hand what gauge metal is on a 3rd gen?
 
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