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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I have been working on dropping in a 350 crate engine in place of the tired 305. I opted to remove all of the computer controlled components (have the wires were missing or already unplugged) and the emissions (half of the emissions components were missing).

I have the new 350 in and running but I have outlined a few problems I'm haivng that I hope some can answer.

1. There are two electrical connections on the front of the AC compressor.
A. Is this a required power connection or can it be ignored? (I want AC to work!)
2. There is a pressure switch on the Power Steering pump. From my understanding it can be removed but must be shorted?
3. Vacuum lines.... Not sure where to start or what I can leave out without the emissions stuff. I do have Cruise Control and want to keep it. What I have now that are not connected:
A. Small purple hose coming from driver side that to my understanding controls HVAC and should be tied into the Vacuum Ball in some way?
B. Large hose coming from Vacuum ball that goes no where? Looks like it may tie into the cruise control box.
C. Should either of these have a one way valve or "T" or anything special?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hello I can help with a couple
1, the connection on the Ac is the clutch . You will need this to engage the clutch to run AC compressor
I have a diagram for the Heater /ac lines let me see if I can find it
Thanks for the reply! I looked at the diagram but I still don't see what would plug into the "clutch" terminals on the compressor.
 

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Welcome to the group - lots of good help on this site.

The AC compressor on my 86 only has one connector. A two wire that runs from the AC accumulator on the passenger side. That activates the clutch on the compressor.

I don't know about the power steering pressure switch. I left it connected when I installed my crate 350.

For the vacuum lines, on mine there is a sticker on the radiator or in front of the radiator with a diagram of the vacuum hoses. That what I used as a guide.

If I remember correctly the hose from the vacuum ball goes to the cruise control and splits or T's off with a hose to the intake manifold in front of the distributor and a small line goes into the dash at the passenger side and that would provide the vacuum for the heater/AC controls. I don't remember noticing any type of one way valve.
 

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Tyler all I can tell you is there is a plug with a green and a black wire that plugs into the compressor. I can't trace them because they are all in wire loom. I hope that will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for the replies. I think I can piece everything together. I'll try to post an update after this weekend.
 

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The switch on the power steering is to tell the computer when the pressure goes high and to kick the idle up to keep from stalling. without the ecm it does nothing - at least that is the way I remember it working.
 

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welcome Tyler

what smog stuff do you still have??
may be easyer to take some pics of the top left/right sides of the motor,
and put them in your garage..

the hvac has 3 vac lines
1 to the heater control valve..
and to/from the vac ball..
the vac source is on the intake manifold behind the carb..
the vac ball should have a check valve, ether built in to the ball on the inlet, or from the manifold..

:texas:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Over the weekend I got the new 350 going! I just need to do some fine tuning! I'll have to wait until Spring to fill and test the AC. I did test cruise control and it is working! I hooked it up following this:


The switch on the power steering is to tell the computer when the pressure goes high and to kick the idle up to keep from stalling. without the ecm it does nothing - at least that is the way I remember it working.
I didn't know it adjusted the idle. I just thought (or have read in other forums) that it kicks off the AC compressor to allow for a higher idle. Interesting. At least now I know I don't need it!

welcome Tyler

what smog stuff do you still have??
may be easyer to take some pics of the top left/right sides of the motor,
and put them in your garage..

the hvac has 3 vac lines
1 to the heater control valve..
and to/from the vac ball..
the vac source is on the intake manifold behind the carb..
the vac ball should have a check valve, ether built in to the ball on the inlet, or from the manifold..

:texas:
All of the smog stuff has been disconnected when we pulled the 305 out. I had a buddy that said it looks like most of the stuff (if not all) was actually there.

Many years ago I put a manual valve in place of the heater control valve. Just a quick fix that I may need to revisit.

Question: I hooked the distributor vacuum source to the intake manifold behind the carb and hooked the "engine vacuum" source to the front port on the carburetor (not the timed port). Should these be swapped?
 

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a manual valve for the heater control valve, is a good thing down here in the summer time.
.
.
by "engine vacuum" you mean the hvac and cruise??
you can swap them,
usually the power brake booster takes the big port 3/8", on the manifold or carb..
the cruise takes the med size port 1/4", on the manifold behind the carb..
usually the distributor takes the small port 1/8" on the carb..

:texas:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
a manual valve for the heater control valve, is a good thing down here in the summer time.
.
.
by "engine vacuum" you mean the hvac and cruise??
you can swap them,
usually the power brake booster takes the big port 3/8", on the manifold or carb..
the cruise takes the med size port 1/4", on the manifold behind the carb..
usually the distributor takes the small port 1/8" on the carb..

:texas:
"Engine Vaccum" was a reference to the diagram in the picture I posted. Simply, the reference to the vacuum source.

Thanks for your help! It sounds like I mostly have everything correct!
 

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:beer:
that usually refers to the port on the manifold, behind the carb, in front of the distributor..

some cars have 2 vacuum balls, 1 for HVAC, and 1 for cruise..?? not sure on a 86??

the hvac ball may have the check valve built in to the ball??

:texas:
 

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I have similar issues and am using same solutions. Good answers here.
You might want to check out this link if you want your TC to lock up. Sounds like you are removing most of the wiring like me. This kit will get you back into OD if you still are using the 200 4r.

http://www.tciauto.com/tc/2004r-700r4-lockup-wiring-kithtml

good luck
 
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