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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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Pcv goes to L. At the tee, there's a smaller loop down to a split, one side goes to a check valve to the air management on the left of the engine, the other side goes to the top of the EPE/TVS (funky thing next to the thermostat housing). T comes out to a check valve right before it hits the bowl valve.

Best to take a good pic with a cell phone and zoom way in. Clears things up some. Figure all lines are straight, if there's a tee, it'll show in the pic as a small white area not a solid black cross.
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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Artifact Font Art Wood Pattern
B for the aircleaner is by itself, although mine has a metal tee at the carb and also goes to the choke pulloff. L is large tube, goes to tee (pcv) and small tube tees (tvs top - smog pump). K(low) goes to tee (purge/bowl top valves). T goes to the inline check valve to the bottom of the bowl valve. H goes to top of the purge valve.

As far as being super rich, that'll have more to do with the choke settings and idle/air screw settings. Factory settings for idle mixture screws is from seat back out 3-⅜ turns. Air bleed screw (big brass screw on top, in front of the choke plate) is from down seat back out 4 full turns. Make sure your choke is properly adjusted, timing is set to 0° (tan/black stripe wire disconnected and idle less than 1000rpm with hot engine) and the fast idle when choke is engaged is barely on the first step (that'll be @ 1400-2000 rpm).

That's the basics settings, there can/will be some small! adjustments after as each engine is slightly different, but changes are very small, ⅛ turn on the air bleed or idle mixture screws can have a noticeable impact.

You'll also notice your adjustments go in circles. You'll change the air bleed, which can change the idle screw needs, which can change the idle mixture screw settings, and go round and round as you dial it in, which can change the engine rpm and will require checking the timing, again.
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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Oh, one other really small, talking Tiny, detail if you have occasion to change the gas filter (be very careful with this, the steel gas pipe twists far too easily) make sure the filter has the small rubber check valve on it. Without that check valve, gas from the bowl will siphon back to the pump, and possibly a good ways back to the tank, so if the car sits for several days/week it makes for a very long start time and requires basically repriming the bowl.

If you Google long, hard starts it almost always comes back as a timing issue, and that'll drive a person crazy. (many filters do not have the check valve, or ppl remove them thinking it obstructs the flow of gas to the carb).
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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No kidding. For the most part cars aren't hard to fix. Couple wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers will fix about anything. It's the knowing of what and where and when to fix that's the hard part. I've learned more about my car in the short time reading these posts than a year spent in shop class. 👍
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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You found a Rochester specialist? Wow, that's Gold. They are getting rare. I asked the kid in my local parts store for a fuel filter adapter for a quadrajet and he asked me if that was a kind of 4-wheeler atv. 😬
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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Wait a sec.. They sold you a reman carb because of a faulty cold start solenoid? There Is no such thing as a cold start solenoid. The choke is entirely responsible for starting when the engine is cold, even freezing, and has no solenoid at all other than for air/fuel ratio under the blue connector on top of the carb. Which has little to nothing to do with starting.

The only other solenoid apart from the MCS is the idle-stop solenoid which has 1 or 2 functions depending on the carb. 1st being to raise rpm 200 or so when the ac compressor is enabled, stops the motor from bogging out at redlights. The 2nd being a damper in case you go from WOT to no-gas pedal instantly, it stops idle drop for 1/2 second or so. There's 2 small screws holding it to the driver front of the carb.

From what it sounds like, they had absolutely no clue how to fix/rebuild/diagnose or tune your QJ, so simply replaced it in hopes that would fix the issue.

I have a vintage hooziwhatzit, would be perfect for installing the blinker fluid you'll need every 5k km, and am really tempted to put my Title to the Brooklyn Bridge up for sale on eBay....

There's only one reason to take a QJ and replace it. It's warped beyond simple repair. Saying that it needed to be replaced because of a faulty part.. Ludicrous.
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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My carb was warped beyond repair. The middle section developed a crack at the Tps and was warped. So I got a reman from National Carb. It was somewhat dialed in, so would start and run, but all these engines are slightly different so any of them will require a little further tinkering possible. But, it came with a brand spanking new fuel filter already installed.

My point being, you may or may not have a new filter, don't see why you wouldn't from Nat. Carb, so any and all of that junk/dirt could possibly be leftover in the lines. Which means without a good flush of the feed And return lines, as clean as your tank started out, there's a possibility it's now got a bunch of junk in it. Depending upon whether the return line is a culprit or not.
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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That's crazy pricing. As well as questionable business practice. There's not a single shop I've Ever dealt with that charges customers to return any parts taken off a vehicle and replaced, and that includes everything from tires to oil. When I bought my carb, National Carb was very up front about core charges, fees etc and conditions of return. My old carb is not usable as anything but a couple of spare parts, so to be honest, I didn't send it to them and demand a core charge return. With what you spent, that should easily have included shipping you the original carb back, it's the UK he could have driven it back and personally handed you the carb in a couple of hours.

Good mechanics often get a bad reputation simply due to shady practices from snake-oil salesmen like that dude. If there's a Better Business Bureau or Angie's List or similar, that'd be my next step. A nicely worded backhand b**ch slap of a write up complaint.
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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The only way I can see his price tag, is not just for the carb, but the installation (whole swap takes less than half an hour) but also dialing in the carb for your motor, which admittedly can take quite a bit of time since setting fast idle has to be done cold, idle and timing has to be done hot and hunting down any vacuum leaks and then redoing everything over after that changes air/fuel ratios and idle speeds several times can take days.
 
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