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1987 Stock 305. TX car in the UK
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanted to start a new post here for clarity.

Have been working through and replacing vacuum lines on my 87, while trying to work to the diagram on the shroud:
Font Wood Art Tree Schematic


The lines I mainly have issues with are:

PCV - a 3/8 line coming from the valve. The diagram does not make it clear what port it should join to on the carb. It is currently connected to port T, via a T piece, which is blanked off:
Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Gas


The diagram further shows this PCV line making a T to the Air Management Valve and the TVS.

Currently the Air Management Valve is connected to Port B via a further T piece, which the air cleaner also connects to.

The TVS is currently not connected to anything.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a schematic drawing for the carb and ports, or provide some knowledge as to what should be connected to where?

I do apologise for the complete ignorance on my part. I'm learning on the fly here, with very limited mechanical experience, and no experience at all of US engines.
 

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1987 Stock 305. TX car in the UK
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pcv goes to L. At the tee, there's a smaller loop down to a split, one side goes to a check valve to the air management on the left of the engine, the other side goes to the top of the EPE/TVS (funky thing next to the thermostat housing). T comes out to a check valve right before it hits the bowl valve.

Best to take a good pic with a cell phone and zoom way in. Clears things up some. Figure all lines are straight, if there's a tee, it'll show in the pic as a small white area not a solid black cross.
Right, thanks for that.

It looks as though the T and L ports are switched then.

Unfortunately the label is a little deteriorated with age, so zooming in doesn't help all that much.

Incidentally, the car is running super rich. Is this likely to be due to these lines being all mixed up? The carb is flooding which would suggest to me a physical problem. I'm considering buying a replacement float as a matter of course.
 

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1987 Stock 305. TX car in the UK
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Amen to the RT's post above.

I've never been one for getting my hands dirty and always considered anything mechanical to be far beyond my ability. That may still turn out to be true, but having this old classic, in England with very little professional help available to me, I'm gonna have to sink or swim!

The knowledge base here is incredible, and I'm in awe of the guys that can both do the work, and share that knowledge in a way that makes sense to the rest of us.

Very much appreciate those of you that have responded to my various posts.
 

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1987 Stock 305. TX car in the UK
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I got the float swapped out, and routed all vacuum lines as per above. The carb no longer floods, and no more black smoke from the exhaust, so that looks to have solved one problem at least.

Was running rough though, but before I could get into anything, the alternator belt snapped and shredded itself.

I think I've now reached the limits of my ability here and will be arranging for a responsible adult to do the work. I've found a Rochester specialist down in London who is happy to get her tuned up and running.

It sucks, but I just don't have the time, knowledge, or ability to keep on like this.
 

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1987 Stock 305. TX car in the UK
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I know right? I think he might be the only one in the UK. He emailed yesterday to confirm the carb number and to assure me he was happy with dealing with the computer carb. I've a feeling this could be an expensive solution, especially with shipping the car down there, but I'd rather spend more and get it done right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, the guy was recommended to me by several folks on a UK forum. He's well regarded over here. Unfortunately, I don't have the luxury of being picky either. I'd rather not transport the car 100 miles away but there's literally nobody else in the country that I know of.
I'll keep y'all updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got the car back yesterday. The carburettor was replaced with a reman unit. The old one had a bad cold start solenoid apparently, and was thoroughly crudded up with rust and debris. She now runs like a dream, and after 6 months since i bought the car, I'm finally able to use it!

This has also highlighted a whole host of other issues that I can get stuck into now haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That's taken the wind out of my sails somewhat. This guy was my second choice to look at the car as the Rochester specialist in London was booked up until Easter.

I guess having very limited mechanical knowledge and very limited access to Chevy parts in the UK has bitten me in the ass. Idiot tax has been duly paid.

For reference, I've attached a copy of his email
Font Screenshot Circle Number Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Get your original back from him. He may whine and say he turned it in for a core (or owes the core charge until he does) but act quickly. Pay the core charge if you have to. (Best case scenario is that he found the 1/1000000 winner of the rebuild roulette; you still should keep the core. You might want to send it out for a proper build before the ‘new’ one fails.)
ALSO—that rust is likely still floating around in your tank. Plan to change inlet filters somewhat frequently and possibly plan to flush or replace the tank.

Patrick

I'll contact him and see what I can do.

The tank had been flushed and ultrasonic cleaned by the dealer, but he left the old fuel filter on which was just full of crap. I'll plumb in a couple of in-line doohickeys to keep an eye on the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I'm feeling sick as a dog here. The guy charged me nigh on $1000 for the carb. Seems they're available for a quarter of that. Even with shipping to the UK that's outrageous. He's also asking for $140 to cover the surcharge to get the old unit back.

Lesson learned I guess. Won't be going back there
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ouch! For that kind of money I’d really be asking what carb he bought. (Maybe there’s some explanation other than his name is Ben Dover).
Patrick
I've only had a quick look under the air cleaner, and it does look like a new unit in fairness. Brand new solenoids too.

I guess with shipping and taxes then a $300 part could become a $500 part fairly easily. He's charged me £650+tax (20%).

I have queried it, but am not expecting much.

I'm glad to have the car running, and I was well out of my depth with trying to fix the old carb, I just feel he's done the bare minimum and charged top rate.

Lesson learned I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
" I just feel he's done the bare minimum and charged top rate."

that about sums it up. knowing all about the high prices in Europe and the VAT tax added on at all levels, I can't comment on the pricing. his business practices however........

in the future, please do consult us before pulling the trigger on anything. we're here to help
I had the car sent over to him as it wasn't driveable. He was terrible at keeping me updated and very vague when I pressed him for details. Unfortunately it was all done via email as I can't access my phone during working hours. Only found out what he had done and how much he was charging me when I got down to pick the car up.
I'm bummed, but at least I do have a car that runs and drives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
The only way I can see his price tag, is not just for the carb, but the installation (whole swap takes less than half an hour) but also dialing in the carb for your motor, which admittedly can take quite a bit of time since setting fast idle has to be done cold, idle and timing has to be done hot and hunting down any vacuum leaks and then redoing everything over after that changes air/fuel ratios and idle speeds several times can take days.
Yeah... except the adjustment screws are still blanked off, and he charged me 16 hours labour...
 
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