[HKDUP87]

Picked up the truck from the mechanic MY WHOLE PROBLEM WITH THE MOTOR SWAP WAS THE CARB. WAS FLOODING? I had a rebuild Mt. Man I put in maybe 6 mo. ago and I guess I got the one bad one or something happened to it during the swap. I just took it off and re-installed it on the new motor so it's over the truck is running fine so to the wash and time to get her looking good for our Pismo trip,:beer:
Robert

 

[69 SS396]

Good you figured out the problem, and that girl dont need washed to look good.:You_Rock:

 

[Bobby78]

Probably your needle valve got stuck during the swap or you knocked the float out of adjustment. If he built it wrong it would have been flooding before the swap. Lucky you found an honest mechanic. Some places would really screw you after seeing you did all the work and it's not running right. They'd want a big chunk of the $$ you tried to save by doing it yourself.

 

[HKDUP87]

Probably your needle valve got stuck during the swap or you knocked the float out of adjustment. If he built it wrong it would have been flooding before the swap. Lucky you found an honest mechanic. Some places would really screw you after seeing you did all the work and it's not running right. They'd want a big chunk of the $$ you tried to save by doing it yourself.

I figured it had to be something like that. I'm sure with all the things going on and banged around something got knocked out of wack. I'm just glad that's over. I had a blast doing the swap, it was hot but when your doing something that's yours it doesn't seem to bother that much. I guess next is a rear sway bar after i put these babies on.

 

[Bobby78]

It could be as simple as flipping it over a few times to double check things. The floats are pretty flimsy when you think about it. They are adjusted by bending a thin piece of tin attached to them.

 

[HKDUP87]

It could be as simple as flipping it over a few times to double check things. The floats are pretty flimsy when you think about it. They are adjusted by bending a thin piece of tin attached to them.[/QUOTE


I didn't know anything about carbs. i could have done something without even knowing i wasn't supposed to hold it a certain way:dontknow: Had to be me it was fine before the swap $$ lesson learned the hard way but not again:beer:

 

[Bobby78]

Not a big deal really. Think of all the things you could've screwed up and only this one little thing happened! Maybe you didn't even do anything. Could've just as easily been a small speck of dirt that got in the fuel line and got the needle valve stuck.

 

[woody31]

with todays fuelas it is possible it gummed up that quickly oke:

 

[mrblanche]

My bet would be that just in moving it around some speck of dirt got caught in a needle valve.

 

[69/84]

Lots of VOODOO in a carb....It's all just Black Magic anyway:nanawrench:

 

[1980SteelBeast]

A mistake many people make is turning the carb upside down to dump the remaining fuel out when its removed from the engine. The floats can come un-adjusted and also it could have just dried up since you didn't drive it in a week. Also,when you did the swap,was it covered up? Remember,a carb remains under an air cleaner and hood during its life,so taking it off basically dries it out.:beer:

 

[69/84]

Good point...
I always store a carb filled with Clean Solvent not gas (Varnish & Flamable) or empty (Dry Out)!

Put it in a large zip lock bag to keep it clean...

 

[BOOSTED-SS-ELKY]

Awesome, glad its fixed.

Good Air/Fuel delivery and Ignition is SO important!

 

[mrblanche]

Another rookie mistake is trying to blow air through the passages. If you have the brass type of floats, that much pressure can collapse them. And it can cause other problems, too.

 

[HKDUP87]

Ok still not up to snuff i was out driving and i still have a hesitation starting from a dead stop and doesn't run the way it should on the freeway. So i stopped by the mechanics shop and asked if he checked for an exhaust manifold leak and he said no. IT'S RIGHT ON TOP OF THE WORK ORDER. I think their putting something in the water people don't listen anymore. He said that they set it to my 305 spec's and may need to advance the timing bring it back Monday. Last time I did that it took three days just to rebuild the carb. He probably sent it to the Mt. Man .:dontknow: So I told him I had already got some new plug wires and exhaust manifold gaskets and would be installing them this weekend and if it's still not up to snuff i would drop it off for Monday only till 5:00 pm.
Coors light is on sale at WalMart!!!!!!!!!! 36 packs $19.98 plus CRV that 5c you never get back+ tax +

 

[jpmdaddy]

hang in there HKDUP, It can get frustrating. I'm still trying to figure out why my newly rebuilt q-jet (not MM) won't settle down to a consistent idle. Thinking about just putting another carb on for grins.....

maybe this one:
http://smicarburetor.com/products/sfID1/28/sfID2/9/sfID3/32/productID/47

 

[Bobby78]

A few things to keep in mind. Cam break in 1/2 hour at 2500 rpm's not 5 seconds and an oil leak, stop and then 15 minutes more.
Another is the engine needs 500 miles of varied speed and load before its broken in. After you get some miles on it it will settle down some. In the meantime as things wear in settings will change. Be patient!
Did you re-torque the intake manifold after a few heat cycles yet? I know it's a PITA and you have to remove a lot of brackets to get to bolts but they do need re-torqueing. Did mine 2X after the initial installation.

 

[HKDUP87]

hang in there HKDUP, It can get frustrating. I'm still trying to figure out why my newly rebuilt q-jet (not MM) won't settle down to a consistent idle. Thinking about just putting another carb on for grins.....

maybe this one:
http://smicarburetor.com/products/sfID1/28/sfID2/9/sfID3/32/productID/47

It will all work out but it would be nice if they did what you ask them to. I guess the old days of service is gone and now I need to ask every question again to make sure it's done. That's why I'm doing it myself but i don't know everything and have to depend on someone else some times. Without the support here I would still be depending on the shop even to get a tune-up because of that #8 plug. I gave up twenty + years of tune-ups due to that plug.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$:let_it_all_out:
Thanks
Robert

 

[Bobby78]

Robert
The problem is the shop has no idea of what you did or are capable of doing. You had a flooding problem. The carb isn't flooding now. Your complaint now is hesitation and off-idle stumble. That could be vacuum. Possibly the intake. The only thing they can do is go over everything you did. That takes time. Now you're making your own spark plug wires. Not saying you're doing anything wrong, but that's another thing they will need to check. Each one actually to make sure they are done right. You're actually causing more time consuming labor. Labor that most shops would not be interested in getting paid for.
Think of it from their point of view. You did the work yourself because you didn't want to pay. After a few minutes of talking to you they will know how much you know by the answers you give. They also know that at this point if you could fix it, you would. And they also know that most likely you won't be back next time you need service. What you're essentially asking them to do is guarantee the job you already did.
As a shop owner my answer to customers in this situation is leave me the car, I need to go over everything you already did to make sure it was done right. If that's not agreeable then the answer is I'm sorry but I can't help you.

 

[fixitman1]

I always,take time to set down with my customers ,and write down what has been done, what they want done ,and how they want it to run, more info the better, as a retired master tech,over all the years and auto's worked on i still for some reason have not become a mind reader .... :texas: