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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my 383 timed and I think it may be too advanced a bit. It seems the cam isn't noticeable as it was before,but it starts up every time & usually on the second crank if its cold.
Advice?:dontknow:
I want the hard hitting cam lope like I had before.....
 

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Got my 383 timed and I think it may be too advanced a bit. It seems the cam isn't noticeable as it was before,but it starts up every time & usually on the second crank if its cold.
Advice?:dontknow:
I want the hard hitting cam lope like I had before.....
If you want the "hard hitting cam lope" then turn the distributor clockwise until the headers are glowing and it barely idles...:p

I recommend tuning it to run at peak performance and efficiency. How much timing you can run will depend on several things like how much octane is in the fuel you're running and how high you're reving it up. All engines are different, but generally 36 degrees is a good starting point.

If you think it sounds too mild with 36 degrees in it then slowing retard it until you like the sound. You will most likely need to raise your idle using the adjustment screw on your carburetor. Be careful not to retard the timing too much or the headers will start glowing and it will be a complete dog, no power.
 

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VINTAGE MOTORHEAD
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4,105 Posts
Lopey idles have never won race. Performance is #1. Most of the "thumpa" type cams run narrow lobe centers and late exhaust timing to create the wicked idle. They don't always produce more power, just a sweet idle. I would rather listen to a strong motor WOT.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Lopey idles have never won race. Performance is #1. Most of the "thumpa" type cams run narrow lobe centers and late exhaust timing to create the wicked idle. They don't always produce more power, just a sweet idle. I would rather listen to a strong motor WOT.
I'm running a Comp Cams 292 but it doesn't hit like it had before. Here's a before and after vid. You can barely hear it in the take off.

Before

After
 

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I think I'm having the same problem. With exhaust manifolds and a weak exhaust I think I may have over advanced the timing a bit. Just got headers on last night, so I'll fiddle with the timing a little today and let you know what I find out. :beer:
 

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Premium Member
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1,324 Posts
Steely, so whut did ya du between the two videos to the engine? What did you add/take-away? If the answer is only retime it by advancing the timing, then retard it. What was the total timing in the first/second videos?? Do you keep a log of what you do to the Elky?? Makes good reference material.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Steely, so whut did ya du between the two videos to the engine? What did you add/take-away? If the answer is only retime it by advancing the timing, then retard it. What was the total timing in the first/second videos?? Do you keep a log of what you do to the Elky?? Makes good reference material.
The only difference in the two videos were new exhaust in the second one and the timing was advanced to 36*. I think I wanna take it down to 34* total.:dontknow:
 

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Exhaust are gonna make a difference in the sound put out. Taking it down 2* isn't gonna hurt anything in that range, and you might like it better. VERY slightly easier to start. And, if you use reg gas, may not get a ping (if you were getting one). I doubt you're using reg in your engine, tho. I would, but I don't romp and stomp, either. :beer:
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I either use premium or mid grade and it easier to start but how much do I retard the timing to get a nice lopey thump like I used to? Should I just retard it for car shows and advance it for track or daily driving?
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Seems like I've heard of an MSD ignition system that allows the driver to adjust timing from the cockpit while running...

Seems like that would give you the best of both worlds at the tip of your fingers.
I would have to have money at the edge of my wallet to get it...
 
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