It looks like about 1/16" or slightly more. Recall that I said it has dug a groove in the block.Jack,, how far off is the crank vs the cam gear?? I am no expert by any means but I have put many sbc together and never have had a alinement issue between the two,, again i am no expert but check the crank gear to ensure the chamfer is facing the crank and it is flush on the snout,, Matty man
Yes. I changed to a Cloyes double roller chain.Jack,, I am guessing you had a single chain and now running a dual timing chain? I have run into clearence issues with the thicker cam gear,, the only thing I can think of right now to give ya problems is the cam freeze plug, its a thin plug to begin with and if it is too far "in" it will not let the cam come all the way back,, not sure if this the issue you are having,, can you post a pic of the rub issue and the alinement issue?? Sucks that you are having these problems,, Matty man
I found those. It looks like two flat washers with a Timken bearing in between them. You have to have the cam gear machined to use that bearing. I have no way to do maching like that.look in jeggs they have them in the cam section under accesories . they call it a wear plate. you use them when setting up a gear drive
I don's see how those wear plates work. There's no hole for the pin or bolts on the cam snout. I guess it must be smaller than the inside of the bolt circle.yes,, haveing to clearance the block for a double roller chain is normal with some blocks..:texas:
i never had a line up problem with a Cloyes set,,
does the block look worn behind the cam gear??
which timing chain set did you get??
Cloyes shows a .031" wear plate also,, instead of the thrust bearing at .150 thick..
any machine shop should be able to cut the gear down for the bearing..