Here's a pic at TDC for #1. It just looks to me like too many lifters are low.
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No new lifters, but I'm going to pull some of them and take a look.
I just removed all the rocker arms and rotated the cam by hand. Whoops! I forgot to plug up the gas line. Anyway, all 16 lifters go up and down about the same .3" like they're supposed to.
I looked at 2 lifters so far. They are not convex, nor concave. They look flat and I see the smaller circle in the center where the cam lobe rubs. I'll check the rest of them later.
I noticed that the timing chain is rubbing on the block at the very top of the cam gear. It has made a groove about 1/32" deep. I also see the cam and crank gears don't quite line up. Does someone make a spacer for that?
Jack
I looked at 2 lifters so far. They are not convex, nor concave. They look flat and I see the smaller circle in the center where the cam lobe rubs. I'll check the rest of them later.
I noticed that the timing chain is rubbing on the block at the very top of the cam gear. It has made a groove about 1/32" deep. I also see the cam and crank gears don't quite line up. Does someone make a spacer for that?
Jack
I tried every variation I can think of. Cam shim, cam spacer, cam gear shim, cam gear spacer, and all of the above using camshaft instead of cam.look in summit for cam shims
Great idea! Send me $700.00.Because you are this deep jn the motor why not by the hardware to upgrade to a street hydralic roller setup? Hou know hou want it!
It looks like about 1/16" or slightly more. Recall that I said it has dug a groove in the block.Jack,, how far off is the crank vs the cam gear?? I am no expert by any means but I have put many sbc together and never have had a alinement issue between the two,, again i am no expert but check the crank gear to ensure the chamfer is facing the crank and it is flush on the snout,, Matty man
Yes. I changed to a Cloyes double roller chain.Jack,, I am guessing you had a single chain and now running a dual timing chain? I have run into clearence issues with the thicker cam gear,, the only thing I can think of right now to give ya problems is the cam freeze plug, its a thin plug to begin with and if it is too far "in" it will not let the cam come all the way back,, not sure if this the issue you are having,, can you post a pic of the rub issue and the alinement issue?? Sucks that you are having these problems,, Matty man
The problem is the cam is too far back, not too far forward. That makes the gear rub on the block. I did some surfing and found that several people have had this problem. They just ground some off the block where it rubs.
About the two gears alignment -- the cam gear sits about 1/16" farther to the rear than the crank gear. Yes, the crank gear is all the way on.
I found those. It looks like two flat washers with a Timken bearing in between them. You have to have the cam gear machined to use that bearing. I have no way to do maching like that.look in jeggs they have them in the cam section under accesories . they call it a wear plate. you use them when setting up a gear drive
I don's see how those wear plates work. There's no hole for the pin or bolts on the cam snout. I guess it must be smaller than the inside of the bolt circle.yes,, haveing to clearance the block for a double roller chain is normal with some blocks..:texas:
i never had a line up problem with a Cloyes set,,
does the block look worn behind the cam gear??
which timing chain set did you get??
Cloyes shows a .031" wear plate also,, instead of the thrust bearing at .150 thick..
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Camshaft-Thrust-Bearings/Make/CHEVROLET/?Ns=Rank|Asc
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-9-201/
any machine shop should be able to cut the gear down for the bearing..
Finally got it all back together and it runs great! I found no reason for it to have been running the way it was. I have to assume I had some of the valve lashes pretty far out -- dunno.
Oh well. At least it runs again. Now I can take it to the paint shop.
Jack
Oh well. At least it runs again. Now I can take it to the paint shop.
Jack
Hey Bruce, I found some more clips. Do you still need them?HEY!!!! Congrats on solving the problem without know whut ya dun did!!! Sometimes that's the best way to solve a problem, but doesn't help with the knowledge base. I'm really glad ya got it going, and, more than likely, was valve lashes off some.
Jack
I did that and then checked them at the #1 and #6 TDC points. Problem solved.i think your valves were too tight,,
i never liked that set all the valves at one time procedure..too much room for error,
when i set valves i do it one cylinder at a time..:texas:
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