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You can, but it would be better to ground to the engine block. On some older Chevy cars they had flat metal straps from the firewall to the valve cover bolts to help tie the body to the block for improved grounding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't know how many other grounds you have (eng to firewall, batt to body, etc.) but this as the main ground needs good contact with engine side. A rubber motor mount with steel sleeve probably doesn't ground to engine. The engine needs a good ground for alternator, spark and sensors current flow.
10/4 thanks, ill do that and add some from the firewall to the block.
 

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You can, but it would be better to ground to the engine block. On some older Chevy cars they had flat metal straps from the firewall to the valve cover bolts to help tie the body to the block for improved grounding.
they sell rolls of the braided wiring flat strap stuff. when I had my Ford Crown Vic Police model, they had added those ground straps everywhere; hood, trunk lid, engine, and actually doubled it in some cases
 

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You can buy high quality handfuls of factory production made braided ground straps with the eye connectors already attached at the junk yards for cheap. That is, if you don't want to make them yourself.

Rick
 

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I would use the factory ground locations.
 

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Can I ground my battery on a motor mount bolt?
You can but it should be on the block side of the motor mount. Going to the frame side can cause electrical gremlins as your starter motor will try to draw ground from all systems to complete the circuit. Main ground should always be direct to the block withs a separate battery ground going to frame.
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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Electricity flows on the outside surface, not through the middle of the wire. The flat or braided lines have a Lot more surface area than a solid wire of equitable guage, so will have less issues with any higher current/higher voltage bleeds like sparkplugs etc.

It's the sole reason that high amp car stereo wiring is made up of 1000 small strands instead of larger cabling. Not just for the flexibility but mainly because it has less resistance per foot having greater overall surface area.
 

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Electricity flow (current flow or electron flow) is moved in the entire conductor by application of a voltage force. For the same size conductor, a solid wire will have less resistance than a stranded wire. The outside of the conductor is effected by dissipation of the magnetic and electrical field. So a solid core wire will be less effected by field dissipation.
 

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Stereo car speaker wire indeed does benefit from being stranded but that is only because its an alternating current that must contend with the "alternating current skin effect". This effects me greatly in my other hobby - amateur radio - because the higher up that I go in frequency, the lossier my coaxial cable gets. Things become quite leaky at UHF and higher and my wattage dissipates out as heat on the way to my antennas.


The problem in this discussion is that we are dealing with direct current. The AC Skin Effect has no applicability to 12 volt DC battery grounds.

Rick
 

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Travels on the outside surface, not the core. It's why geniuses tried copper clad aluminium wiring, get the benefits of copper conductor with the savings of the aluminium core. Stranded wire has less resistance per foot than solid, but consequently can carry higher amperage as a result for the same guage. 12ga stranded is a smaller cross section than 12ga solid, both rated for 25a motor loads, if the stranded wire was the same size as the solid wire it'd carry 30a instead.
 
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