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Discussion Starter #1
What is the deal with the cable that controls the seat adjustment mechanism? Mine is way too long to transfer the movement of the adjustment lever from the driver side to the passenger:



I've "expertly" highlighted the cable's current path above to show just how long it is. I can't believe it has stretched this much (seems to be original). Is it supposed to be routed in some special way? I tried using small threaded chain links reroute it up through the springs at the front of the seat, but this did not work at all. Do I just need a new cable?:dontknow:
 

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Two thoughts on shortening your wire.

I believe it currently runs through an eyelet attached to the underside of the seat that keeps it above the transmission tunnel.

What if you add extra eyelets about 12 inches on left and right sides of the existing eyelet? Will that remove enough of the slack?

If it was a rope...... I would tie a knot (away from the eyelets) to shorten it. Will this work with your wire?

Since you are near water, Another thought is to measure how long you want it to be. Take it off and go to a marine hardware store that has sailboat supplies. Have them shorten it by cutting and adding two nicro press sleeves and two thimbles. Use a hog ring or heavy key ring to connect the two parts. Keep the short piece on the passenger side about 4 inches from the connection to the seat unlock, so nothing interferes with the rings that hold the cable to the center of the underside of the seat.
https://www.riggingandhardware.com/c-954-thimbles-wire-rope-clips-and-nicro-press-sleeves.aspx
 

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funny that could be what's wrong with mine (stretched) . Cause when I pull on the lever , bench seat doesn't move and I thought maybe cable was just broken .:dontknow:
 

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At least on mine, I can reach under the passenger side of the seat and find the cable.
You can tug on it to see if it releases the catch mechanism.
If you pull the seat, it is best to use two people so you do not cut up the door panels with the sharp parts of the seat brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nope, no way to adjust. Just a solid cable with hooks on either end that fit into the track levers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Two thoughts on shortening your wire.

I believe it currently runs through an eyelet attached to the underside of the seat that keeps it above the transmission tunnel.

What if you add extra eyelets about 12 inches on left and right sides of the existing eyelet? Will that remove enough of the slack?

If it was a rope...... I would tie a knot (away from the eyelets) to shorten it. Will this work with your wire?

Since you are near water, Another thought is to measure how long you want it to be. Take it off and go to a marine hardware store that has sailboat supplies. Have them shorten it by cutting and adding two nicro press sleeves and two thimbles. Use a hog ring or heavy key ring to connect the two parts. Keep the short piece on the passenger side about 4 inches from the connection to the seat unlock, so nothing interferes with the rings that hold the cable to the center of the underside of the seat.
https://www.riggingandhardware.com/c-954-thimbles-wire-rope-clips-and-nicro-press-sleeves.aspx
I had not considered that the extra length would be needed to get over the transmission hump. I'll try your suggestion with the two eyelets. Hopefully I can avoid hitting up a rigging shop, but that is a great idea.
 

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anyone here have a bench seat they can check ? I don't think there's any way the cable could have stretched that far. I'm thinking that maybe the cable has to be at an angle to the latch point in order to get proper leverage on releasing it, which is why Bobstoy suggested routing it to closer to the front of the seat.
on another note, you can see where the drivers side of the seat has been compressed due to a lot of butts sitting on that side over the years compared to the passenger side. are you looking at replacing/recovering the seat anytime soon? you may want to consider doing it while you have it out.
 

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The cable as you are calling it has to go through two eyelets at the front of the seat. It doesn't just go straight across. The eyelets can be hog rings and are located about 10 - 12 inches from each end. You can adjust as needed to make the wire the correct length.
 

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Here is a pic of the underside of my 75 bench. I tried to number 5 spots on the wire but the numbers all shifted up when I saved. Anyway, hope it helps. Follow the pic link to Flickr and you can enlarge the photo and see all these features pretty clearly.

The seat back is to the left, drivers side on the bottom. Numbers 2 and 4 denote hog rings securing the wire to the front of the seat. Number 3 is a cutout and crimp that the wire threads through right over the hump, keeping the wire off the carpet. Number 5 is a longish hook that pulls the wire toward the front corner of the seat and helps keep it taught, similar to the hooks used under the car for the e-brake cables. Position number 1 is where I think another hook might go, because my cable is a bit slack and so works only about half the time.

 
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