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I was so amazed at the difference those Delrin control arm bushings made on my front end of my old 64 Pontiac that I had rear control arms made with Currie Johnny joints. Wow was a difference. Its like the suspension was actually connected to the car, it felt like a completely different car and a fast performance car at that.. Back then Delrin was new and you had to have the arms made at a machine shop, they were expensive!
 

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Thanks guys for the explanation. Makes total sense. I realized why I don’t have a rear sway...my Elky didn’t have the FI package.

My immediate plan is to install Bilstein @ front and go with a hollow front sway. Might as well get the front brace too but I’ve read it may be a challenge to install.

I’ll continue to research the rear. For sure a sway and air bags in the future. My control arms are in good shape. The bushings not so much. Would love tubular arms but I’m getting too “wishful thinking “ there. Thxs again.
 

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My el camino runs these parts
It’s not raced or driven in hpde stuff
I would recommend it as it really does handle well

rear sway. F41 bar
Rear bilsteins
Two inch lowering spring from bmr
Dropped front spindle
Moog 5660
Bilstein fronts
Floyd front bar. Hollow 36 mm
Jounce bars
Fender to core support bars

mans most importantly. A Jeep steering shaft connected to a mcss gearbox

the wheels are 17x7 fronts and 17x9 rears
225 front with 275 rears
Tires are cooper rs3a
 

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I was so amazed at the difference those Delrin control arm bushings made on my front end of my old 64 Pontiac that I had rear control arms made with Currie Johnny joints. Wow was a difference. Its like the suspension was actually connected to the car, it felt like a completely different car and a fast performance car at that.. Back then Delrin was new and you had to have the arms made at a machine shop, they were expensive!
Pitts, I know what you're saying! After your suggestion on the Spohn control arms and some of the others input i learned a lot! And Delrin has been a part of that learning curve. That is why I am going with the Ridetech street grip package. It has all new Delrin bushings for the front end. I will need to upgrade the rest of the steering but after riding with the Spohn rears I'm more than ready to give Delrin a chance in the front!

Joe
 

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With the Delrin bushings, since they don't move around like the rubber did, you can set the toe closer to zero, I'd go 1/32 toe in on each side and the camber to negative .25.. Don't crank the positive caster all the way up like many do because it will cause all kinds of weird things to happen. I'd go for passenger side positive 2.5 and drivers side positive 2..

You could swap to a Grant 12.5" diameter wheel and it will speed up the factory box quite a bit, I did it on my 69 and pleasantly surprised.. Frankly that old factory box was pretty decent once speeded up by the steering wheel..

Joe once you install the Street Grip. The next thing I would do is save up for the Lee 14:1 steering box. The 14:1 is better for highway driving then the 12.7:1. Tell them you want the New 800 series box with the 14:1 ratio and to set it for 30 pounds. My box was slightly over $500 and was the best money I ever spent on a car..
 

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@87ls5.3 What control arms are you using? The Ride tech kit doesn't include CAs.
The Ridetech kit re-uses the stock control arms for the front and upgrades the bushings along with progressive springs and the extended upper ball joint. A balanced pair of sway bars with adjustable shocks and a pair of drop spindles. I am currently saving for this package and have not installed it yet. I am going on the word of a guy that has done just about every suspension mod to his car to the point that he has custom built control arms built by one of the major Mfg's. But he actually races his car, and I asked for the best package I could get for the street without going broke. If you can wait another 6 months or so.... I should be able to provide an actual review!

I did however use Spohn Del-Sphere rear uppers (as suggested by Pitts64) and UMI lowers with their roto-joints. That and a UMI rear sway bar made the rear so good that I just drive down the road marveling at how good it is! Honestly, just the rear made my car Wayyyyyyyyyyy more fun to drive! I can't wait to try the StreetGrip package!

Joe
 

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@87ls5.3 Thxs. I have no choice but to concentrate on the front. Appears I’m running all factory components suspension wise.

I replaced shocks and sheared off the captured bolt welded or clipped? on the factory lower CA. Shock appears mounted well with1bolt properly installed and the other loosy goosy.

I’ve bounced the front bumper hard, appears OK. But I can’t test drive cause now I can’t get the wheel bearing cap back on.
Kinda threw a big monkey wrench into my plans.
 

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Pic of shock and cap.
I see Ridetech sells the front sway bar and link with Delrin bushings. See prior pic of upper ball joint. What advantages would a drop spindle afford? Note I have Wilwood 2 piece rotor/hat. I was planning on turning my own wrenches. May just acquire the parts and pay for install.
 

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Yep, you have the typical old car front end goin on there (but some nice stoppers). Also you said one of the shock bolts couldn't be put back in because something broke? The only thing I can think of would be the J-nut on the control arm and those are replaceable, just slide a new one on and run a new bolt in. You might have to remove the shock I'm not sure but fairly easy. I was pretty lucky that only my upper control arm bushings were at the un-useable stage and I just replaced them with Autozone specials for about $20 knowing that the entire suspension was going to need attention after I got my car driveable. I also had the entire front end off so why not right? The drop spindles help to lower the center of gravity, Ridetech uses stock height springs with a progressive wind to help with a smoother ride and to work with the stock control arms and the extended ball joint. Some others use shorter and stiffer springs to get the drop and there isn't anything wrong by going that way but I'm looking to drive my car not race it. Check out my original thread on this subject the guys here taught me a lot! Coil-over conversion? If you want to talk more send a PM and I'll help all I can.

Joe
 

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@87ls5.3 Thank you. The Bilsteins bring all new hardware. The bolts that attaches the shock to LCA are a bit longer. I did feel something “snap” off...I was torquing by feel, not looking...I looked around didn’t see anything on the ground. Your explanation “J nut” makes sense.

Pls excuse my “ignorance” I’m not at all familiar w/G Bodies
Thxs again
 
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