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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a certain way I have to bleed my brakes with the proportioning valve? It came with a plastic fitting to screw into the valve where the brake switch goes. I'm kind of confused about how I do this or I might be just thinking about it to hard. Lol. Any help is appreciated, thanks
 

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I just clean the bleeder, spray it down with Liquid Wrench or similar, loosen it, put a piece of hose on it and run the hose to a clear jar so I can see how much is going in, remove the master cyl. lid and let it flow.

Doesn't really matter which wheel you start or stop with.. You could do one front and one rear since its a dual master.. Drain enough till it comes out the other end clean.. Don't touch the brake pedal or start the car while doing this..
 

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I just clean the bleeder, spray it down with Liquid Wrench or similar, loosen it, put a piece of hose on it and run the hose to a clear jar so I can see how much is going in, remove the master cyl. lid and let it flow.

Doesn't really matter which wheel you start or stop with.. You could do one front and one rear since its a dual master.. Drain enough till it comes out the other end clean.. Don't touch the brake pedal or start the car while doing this..
whether it is true or not i still go with what the manuals usually say. always start with wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer. RR, RL, FR, FL.

have you replaced replaced all the lines? usually when bleeding brakes on something this age any weak rusty lines make themselves known real quick. a lot of the time i will just let gravity do the work and usually works pretty good. just let the bleed screw stay open till start seeing fluid come out. never had an issue with a proportioning valve yet
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just clean the bleeder, spray it down with Liquid Wrench or similar, loosen it, put a piece of hose on it and run the hose to a clear jar so I can see how much is going in, remove the master cyl. lid and let it flow.

Doesn't really matter which wheel you start or stop with.. You could do one front and one rear since its a dual master.. Drain enough till it comes out the other end clean.. Don't touch the brake pedal or start the car while doing this..
So your saying attach a hose to the bleeder screw. Fill the reservoir up with new fluid. Crack open the bleeder screw and without pumping the brake pedal let the fluid run out through the hose into a container and wait for clean fluid and close off the bleeder screw. Basically just let the fluid run out on it's own. If so, I've never heard of bleeding brakes like that but I really hope that's all I have to do cause it sounds alot easier. So I dont need to do anything to the proportioning valve. Just leave it as is. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All lines from the proportioning valve forward are new. The rear didnt look bad but really I just got lazy. I may go ahead and change them. I'm ready to get this thing done. I've been working on it almost every weekend this year. Starting to get unmotivated
 

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Some prop valve have a button you can press while bleeding I forget why though. If you fluid is any color other than clear, I would start at the rear passenger side and use the old pump the brakes method, gravity does work, but the pump method is faster and could possibly help push any trash out of the system. A vacuum pump works even better if you are by yourself but pumping will do the same thing. If you changed your brake calipers give them a few wacks with a rubber dead blow hammer, this can help work some of the air loose sometimes, and don't forget the shake down run, go drive for a few miles and check and bleed everything again, yeah I know it seems like a lot of work but better safe than sorry.
 

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you can try bleed the brakes. if they hold good but almost every time i try bleeding brakes on something that i didn't replace all the lines on i usually have 1 pop while bleeding and end up replacing them all anyways.

the button is to usually hold the thing inside the proportioning valve from moving forward or backwards since it will slow fluid from going to the front or back if it moves all the way forward or back. it is why i suggested gravity bleeding if your worried about it. most of the time when i gravity bleed i hood the line up closest to the master cylinder first and by the time i am hooking up the other end i usually have fluid coming out and things bleed up to that point
 

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whether it is true or not i still go with what the manuals usually say. always start with wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer. RR, RL, FR, FL.

have you replaced replaced all the lines? usually when bleeding brakes on something this age any weak rusty lines make themselves known real quick. a lot of the time i will just let gravity do the work and usually works pretty good. just let the bleed screw stay open till start seeing fluid come out. never had an issue with a proportioning valve yet
I didn't know the manuals said to do it this way. If that's the case then I will do it that way too and stop saying that. They must have good reason to start at the farthest and work to the closest..

Thank you for the correction...:smile3:
 

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Isn't that plastic pin to keep the proportioning valve centered while bleeding one wheel at a time? If one wheel cylinder is open, and you bleed by pumping the brake pedal, the slider in the proportioning valve can slide to one side and trigger the brake warning light. That's how it warns you of a brake line failure.
Maybe gravity or vacuum bleeding dodges the problem...
 

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Yep, gravity bleed. I once put a new master cylinder in my 79 Vette and filled it up and just let the fluid flow. Right rear first then left rear then right front then left. Had to re-fill the res a couple times. Best part was the first brake test after, I almost ate the steering wheel!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I ended up doing it the old way. Had my dad pump the brakes for me. Didnt have any issues. I got all the air out fairly quickly but i still need to get the old fluid the rest of the way out of the rear. Might gravity bleed the rear to get it out.

Tried to gravity bleed to start with but it would not drain out of the master cylinder until I pumped the brakes but just went ahead and did the old way
 
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