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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently swapped the engine from the factory 262 to a 327sbc, and we removed the AC lines and other things that didn’t match up to the engine but still have the condenser and box attached.

I realized quickly that there is no air circulating within the car when I try using the economy vent and/or the heater/defrost settings, and when I flip the switch to activate the fan it clicks on high but the fan doesn’t spin at all.

We took it out and tested the blower fan by hooking it directly to the battery and grounding it and it spun just fine, I cleaned the connectors and replaced both the relay and the resistor for the blower motor but it still shows no sign of spinning and still clicks when put into high speed. I’m getting no response whatsoever from the switch inside the vehicle and am lost as far as what else I can do to make it work, do you guys have any suggestions? I’ll include pictures of the engine bay and I’ll take better ones when I get home.
Car Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Wheel

this one was taken when we took out the blower to test the blower fan
Car Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire
 

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If you have the wiring diagram from the shop manual and a good multimeter, you can trace to find where you lose power to the motor.

My prediction? Bad ground to the blower motor. Try a temporary supplemental ground wire to see if that fixes it.

Rick

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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I recently swapped the engine from the factory 262 to a 327sbc, and we removed the AC lines and other things that didn’t match up to the engine but still have the condenser and box attached.

I realized quickly that there is no air circulating within the car when I try using the economy vent and/or the heater/defrost settings, and when I flip the switch to activate the fan it clicks on high but the fan doesn’t spin at all.

We took it out and tested the blower fan by hooking it directly to the battery and grounding it and it spun just fine, I cleaned the connectors and replaced both the relay and the resistor for the blower motor but it still shows no sign of spinning and still clicks when put into high speed. I’m getting no response whatsoever from the switch inside the vehicle and am lost as far as what else I can do to make it work, do you guys have any suggestions? I’ll include pictures of the engine bay and I’ll take better ones when I get home. View attachment 143345
this one was taken when we took out the blower to test the blower fan
View attachment 143346
I recently swapped the engine from the factory 262 to a 327sbc, and we removed the AC lines and other things that didn’t match up to the engine but still have the condenser and box attached.

I realized quickly that there is no air circulating within the car when I try using the economy vent and/or the heater/defrost settings, and when I flip the switch to activate the fan it clicks on high but the fan doesn’t spin at all.

We took it out and tested the blower fan by hooking it directly to the battery and grounding it and it spun just fine, I cleaned the connectors and replaced both the relay and the resistor for the blower motor but it still shows no sign of spinning and still clicks when put into high speed. I’m getting no response whatsoever from the switch inside the vehicle and am lost as far as what else I can do to make it work, do you guys have any suggestions? I’ll include pictures of the engine bay and I’ll take better ones when I get home. View attachment 143345
this one was taken when we took out the blower to test the blower fan
View attachment 143346
I had the same problem with my 1981 231” and finally found a bad fused link down by the starter. This power source only feeds the blower motor high speed. Why they put it in such a hard to service location is beyond me.
 

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There is a separate fuse and connector for low and med speeds. The connector is a single brown wire behind the HVAC control panel. Be sure you have power there. The clicking on High indicates that power is getting from the starter to the relay, but not fro the relay to the blower motor. The suggestion on the ground is a good place to start.
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, original 305/200-4R, QJ
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The motor used 2 sources for voltage. The lower speeds went through the resistor package, but high speed was battery direct from a 4 pin plug on the front corner of the passenger valve cover. That plug also housed the ac condenser wiring. Served no real purpose other than to be a break in those wires. It's a common failure point as it inevitably gets roasted by the airhorn flex tube.
 

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Change the resistor and the relay. It'll fix your problem. There are two different relays. To make sure you get the right one, take a picture of your connector for when you go to the auto parts store or looking it up online. Autozone has them and you probably use the same ones that mine uses; The resistor is Duralast DR795 SKU 524616 and the relay is Duralast 19820, SKU156190. It's about $40 for both parts.
 
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