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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I tried searching to see if this question has already been asked, and I came up with nothing. Maybe I just didn't enter the right keywords. Anyways..... from a high level generic view, which crate motor is better? GMPP or Blueprint? Or should I be looking at another crate motor manufacturer?

Does one have any advantages over the other? At first glance I like the numbers on the BP3830CT1, However I would like input on Blueprint engines versus GMPP.
 

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The Summit Racing catalog lists the GMPP engines as well as after-market crate engines. Of course the GM engines have a warranty, and so do the others. The GM engines listed give specs on power/torque @ RPM, and cam type etc. , so you may get some info looking at that . Check it out online.

Personally I would go with an an engine with a roller cam vs a flat tappet type, and you wouldn't have issues with the current oil that has no anti-wear stuff in it ( Zinc etc)
 

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The advantage of the GMPP is every part is new. Block, crank, every casting and part is new, not re-manufactured. Is that a good thing... ???? not always. A new block which has never seen heat cycles will move around, casting sand will release (and go through the oiling system) bores settle out of round, and any stress riser not revealed by previous heat/stress cycles will surface (cracks in heads, blocks, cranks, rods, pistons, etc). With production being paramount in todays manufacturing,, 'new' may not always be better than a seasoned used item. BUT, that's not saying every new item out there will fail. Just that there could be that potential. But.... "NEW" is also a 'advantage' of the GMPP also,, it's a virgin 4.000 bore block with at least 1 or 2 rebuilds in it. I'm not sure what piston GMPP uses but i'd assume cast which I'd have no problem with up to 325-350HP

Flip side..... The "Blueprint" engines Summit sells appears to be a decent product. (BTW, your link has an extra http in it) They claim to sonic check bores, use a one piece rear seal block, is an efficient Vortec style head (of un-described origin tho)..... Necessary things they dont include will be into your pocket a little. It is a EXTERNALLY BALANCED assembly. That means you need a harmonic damper and flex plate for a 400. Your old internally balanced harmonic damper and flex plate will NOT work. (the GMPP will have the damper but also not include the flexplate/flywheel) I really doubt they fire and dyno test each and every engine. They claim to "send dyno results" with each engine, but more likely the do just like GMPP, and most others,, they build and dyno test one, then all clones built to same specs get the same dyno sheet. "Theoritically" should be the same,,, Suuuuuure it is.

Good, bad or indifferent.... I think I'd get Slummit to GUARENTEE the bore is 4.030 (and not 4.040 or anything else other than 4.030) and go the Blueprint way. You don't want to spend this kind of $'s and have no usable cylinder wall left for future rebuilds. You can go +0.040 pretty safely. And unless you explode a motor and beat the crap out of a cylinder wall,, 0.010 more should clean things up OK for one more rebuild. The hypereutectic pistons they use are hard,, actually termed 'harder' than forged, and run tighter clearances than forged (but are brittle so keep tuned for NO detonation!!!). When hypererutectics fail it's usually disasterous as they shatter like a pyrex bowl hitting a tile floor And that brings near total engine carnage when they do. (have some cool pictures of a 400 missing #5 piston,, I mean TOTALLY turned to dust and gravel in the bottom of the oil pan). Because of the tight clearances used with hypereutectics, failure to keep up on maintenance and run dirty oil will score the bore beyond what 0.010 will clean up. So there is some risk there if your not good about running a quality oil and keeping it fresh and clean.

There is a 3rd option here that may be worth considering,,, is there any local machine shops that racers tend to use? Having a 383 built locally gives you someone local to deal with in the event you have warrantee issues. And local will save shipping fees which is pretty costly on something as heavy as a motor. The last 3 I had delivered were shipped Yellow Freight and you had to be home ALL DAY on some scheduled week day to receive it, and the charge was like $300 as I remember,, (+ the lost income for the day of sitting on your thumb). With a local built motor you can dictate exactly WHAT and HOW it's built. If you want to forgo the risk of a flat tappet cam and have it buiult with a roller package,, it's all up to YOU.

just my 2cents
 

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Year One is selling a 350 crate engine. Advertised as 400+ HP, 12 month 12,000 mile warranty for $2,990.00. yearonedotcom if you want to look it up.
 

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Go to Weber Chevrolet in Creve Coeur (GMPP dealer) and see what they'll sell you part# 12556121 (L31 4 bolt main shortblock) then add a roller cam (your choice...mine Hot Cam ) heads (your choice...mine Aluminum Fast Burn) intake (your choice...single plane Vortec GM) carb (your choice...Holley 650 dp) and distributor...or buy the whole damn engine if that's easier fer ya. You probably won't have to pay shipping if you buy it from a local GMPP dealer. Even better if money ain't no object is part # 12561723 ZZ4 shortblock

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Marv, that is exactly the kind of info I was after... seasoned block vs. new block. Theelcaminofactory, I will check Weber Chevrolet with the info you provided. I'm gonna check into have a local guy do an engine build as well.

I definitley have some homework to do.
 

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I'd opt for the new block over a reconditioned one every time--i had a ZZ4 in one of my rods (31 roadster pickup) and liked it --Look for a speed shop close by as the shipping is the pitts-$$-i live 100 miles from Gilbert auto group (used to be Sallee chevy) and they have a dyno and speed shop-so that way you can get one dialed in alrady done like you want--Glenn:nanawrench::beer:
 

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The hypereutectic pistons they use are hard,, actually termed 'harder' than forged, and run tighter clearances than forged (but are brittle so keep tuned for NO detonation!!!). When hypererutectics fail it's usually disasterous as they shatter like a pyrex bowl hitting a tile floor And that brings near total engine carnage when they do.
my machinest calls them "hyper-blow-up-able",, hehe

if your gona beat on it,,,go forged... pistons,rods,crank,and the best rod bolts money can buy...
i dont see any cam spec's,,,,:texas:
 

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I got a ATK crate motor that I was very happy with. Well built, great warranty, and held up fine. But I never took it to a dyno.
For the money I would do it again!
Donny
 

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I have a GMPP 454HO in my 59.
Had to take it out for a honing and new rings at 2600mi.
In that 2600 miles it had gone thru over 15qts oil.
Engine out of warrantee before I even started it for the first time.

I am not the only one that had issues
Another person on a forum I frequent had gone thru the same thing.
And yet another -- that is getting some help from the useless GMPP warrantee folks---
is now on his third 454 HO.

When I had the engine gone thru (new rings-hone-valve seals) I was so aggravated
at GM & Ford (was also having warrantee issues with new Ranger),
My GMPP 454HO is now painted BRIGHT FORD BLUE (personal stab at GM & Ford)

On a good note
3000 mi after the overhaul------not a single drop of oil has vanished from the engine
 
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