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body work/paint prep/self paint with duplicolor system

5182 Views 26 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  nitro
So i'm thinking about painting my car with the duplicolor system. I just want to see if anyone has used it, had any success, and if its possible to do it in your own garage.

How much prep did you do? sand all the way down to the metal, then prime?

Also i'm switching from two tone to solid so i've removed all the exterior trim but have a few holes from fasteners to fill and the studs from the clips to remove, what would you fill those holes with?

thanks for any help you can give!
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Personally I wouldn't use lacquer. In the old days it was fine. Today there are much better, more durable, longer lasting finishes.
As far as stripping or not, a good OEM finish is a good base if properly sanded. You really don't have to remove all the old paint if it's just the original w/o any paint work. If it's been painted over then strip it.
what would you recommend instead of lacquer? any ideas of what would work better?

just sanding would be a lot easier. the surface is still smooth, still original paint and the minor chips would fill easily without much material.
great looking 78 by the way bobby! what steering wheel do you have? Mine has reached its end. leaking sticky stuff all over and bubbling... tx heat
Mine has reached its end. leaking sticky stuff all over and bubbling... tx heat
This thread will tell you about your steering wheel !
I would use a urethane basecoat/clearcoat. All the major brands have budget lines that are still durable if cost is a factor. Omni, Shop Line, Diamont, Nason are less expensive than PPG DCU, DuPont Chroma Premier, or Spies-Hecker, Glasurit, etc.
I shot mine in DuPont Chroma-Premier base coat and Clear.

My wheel is from a 78 camaro same dk. carmine as my interior.
If you want to use your original sanded finish under a base/clearcoat system I suggest you spray a coat of adhesion promoter before the color coats.
Bobby78 knows a lil sumthin on paint, so you might want to take his advice. I know the new laquers are supposed to be more durable than the old, but hmmmmmmmmmmmm, the tv shows you see products on are paid by these sponsors, such as the e-3 spark plugs nobody on the internet stands up for for more than a few months at a time. Get the hint. DIY taylored products are not do it best products. I mentioned my vehicle on the photobucket link for a real world example. The entire front is the budget priced nason line now owned by Dupont done in single stage black with clearcoat. The bedcover & tailgate were also poor condition rush jobs done in nason in single stage only, no clearcoat. The main portion I did back in 99' on a saturday at an autocrafters shop with an entry level employee giving me acess & purchasing the high end dupont epoxy primer & chroma series bc/cc. Can you see any difference picturewise between the 3 different paints? The main consistant was good prepwork & colorsanding/buffing skills.
Also as a final answer about sanding down to bare metal, for your year unless it's REALLY screwed up bigtime , the factory base is best left intact as Bobby stated.This was not the case on older vehicles. Epoxy is the best primer for going over raw metal, something you'd rather not do at home, it's pretty nasty.
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Go Bobby! It always helps when a pro steps up!

And thanks for telling us what you are actually working with. The deep scratches can be a problem and I can understand why you''ve had conflicting helpful comments. The truth, as I know it, is that it will depend on how deep they are. If they hit metal, and I'll throw this in with the other rust you're going to deal with; There is a product labeled 'ONE-STEP' that comes in a spray can. It converts rust to a black looking primer sealer for areas that arn't logical for cutting out for replacing. As far as I know, other than POR products, there isn't much out there to trust.
So for know, you can detail clean your entire hot rod with a power washer/start removing anything that would hide crud/ bag it & tag it and maybe even take pics as you go so you'll remember what hardware goes where/PREP-SOL down the surface before you lay down sandpaper or you'll sand in old wax, armor all, grease, and other contaminants into the paint which will leave what's called 'fish-eyes' in your final paint.
If you don't have access to a cheap paint gun that you could experiment with on an old hood or a couple fenders, you could even watch a painting video that shows you proper gun techniques, and then use some old cans of spray paint to practice moving side to side without rotating your wrist, keeping the exact same distance away from the surface (tape a one foot ruler to the side of the can). It sounds corny, but an hour of prepractice before you shoot your first primer will allow your mind to concentrate on what you're seeing instead of what you're needing to do.
Are you going to color the door jams, fender edges, and such?
And as was pointed out, there's very little reason to ever go much heavier than 400 grit on a color recoat as you want to do. When you pick you're products you may find that the product dosn't even want you to step up to a final 600 grit.
for you small scratches, rust areas, welds, and such, they make professional level primers in spray cans that can be had at an automotive paint supply store: Don't use hardware store primers in a can. Those are for wheelbarrows.
The longboard sander is your friend. Watching a video on the proper way to use one is half the job. Don't. Don't. Don't. Do NOT D-A sand your El Camino. It will look like you painted a wheelbarrow. DA's are for body work and panel forming/shaping until you have a lot of experience with them under your beltline. They will ruin straight lines, pull out crispness, and leave little divots that don't show up till the clear is on.
Did I mention on my first post that this can be a whole lot of work??!!!! But they paint gun much easier than many vehicle surfaces- You'll do fine. Just watch a quality CD/Vid, do your prep correctly & cleanly, and if you know the right way to mask off with tape, you're ready to hit a home run.
Don't be put off when you get 2 or 3 suggestions on how to fix an area, or which grades of sandpaper to use when. It can be done a couple ways and different professionals have their own styles that work for them. It's like getting in a girls shirt. You do what works for the both of you and leaves you both happy afterwards.
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