El Camino Central Forum banner
41 - 60 of 93 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Hopefully the new-to-you motor works out well for you. On the bright side with that junk block you've got the makings for a sweet coffee table. Never seen a crank shear like that out of the blue though.
That’s a good idea , I’ve seen those. And I didn’t even think of it. Till now. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
140498

just gonna drop a couple of pictures here of the motor I decided to pick up. The owner sent me a picture of it running , he had it in an old Chevy truck , he posted it for sale and someone wanted just the body. So he took the motor out and posted it separately. All the gaskets appeared to be new, it wasn’t leaking anywhere and it sounded strong in the video he sent so I got it. I think I’m gonna put it on the engine stand and drain the oil , then check the torque on the main bolts and make sure everything in the bottom end is good.
140499

It has a brawler carb on it and I hear they are great for making power. The old engine originally had a Holley on it and even though it was rusty in spots it made tons of power it just had issues with flooding and wasn’t reliable. It also leaked so I removed it and replaced it with an edelbrock, the power loss was noticeable.
I also had a question about the th350 transmission that came with it. The passing gear cable was never hooked up in the truck. And I know in some of the newer transmissions if that happens they will burn up the transmission so I was wondering if that was the case with the th350
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,227 Posts
It is not like the TH2004r or TH700R4 that use a throttle valve cable to move the valve in the transmission that adjusts much of the fluid pressure and flow.
The TH350 uses a kick down cable to help downshift if the throttle gets opened up.
The TH350 cable provides the convenience of automatic downshifts into passing gear at highway speeds.
Hot Rod Magazine article explains below
Pit Stop: Automatic Trans Kickdown Cables—Are They Really Needed? (motortrend.com)

It looks like it might be a good time to consider new valve cover gaskets.
Otherwise I am hoping you did good on your purchase.

Feel encouraged to tape a rag or cardboard across the carb top to keep junk from falling in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
It is not like the TH2004r or TH700R4 that use a throttle valve cable to move the valve in the transmission that adjusts much of the fluid pressure and flow.
The TH350 uses a kick down cable to help downshift if the throttle gets opened up.
The TH350 cable provides the convenience of automatic downshifts into passing gear at highway speeds.
Hot Rod Magazine article explains below
Pit Stop: Automatic Trans Kickdown Cables—Are They Really Needed? (motortrend.com)

It looks like it might be a good time to consider new valve cover gaskets.
Otherwise I am hoping you did good on your purchase.

Feel encouraged to tape a rag or cardboard across the carb top to keep junk from falling in.
I did notice the leaky valve cover gaskets as well. Thanks for the article as well, it was informative. I pray I made the right choice.
Anything in particular I should look for when I take the valve covers and oil pan off?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,227 Posts
Anything in particular I should look for when I take the valve covers and oil pan off?
That would be better answered by others that get inside the valve covers more often than I do.

I'm thinking you likely have a good motor.

You may be able to use a small rag soaked in a little Coca Cola and maybe some 0000 very fine steel wool to remove the rust just starting on a couple of the chrome pieces.
Don't let the cola get on painted or aluminum surfaces.
Also, if you use a purple colored degreaser, do not let it sit on aluminum surfaces, it will quickly discolor them. (do not use it on carb, choke, manifold etc).
 

·
Deputy Regional Director, Region 6
Joined
·
1,529 Posts
Keep us posted as to how everything turns out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
140509

this thing Has been ran, that filter is Disgusting. Any tips on cleaning it?
140510

this also has a serpentine belt setup. Maybe it was common for this block?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,227 Posts
On the air cleaner filter. It might be time for a new one. You will need to see if you might need to use a less tall one for hood clearance. Don't forget to include the height of the threaded section and the top bolts. Do not dent your hood. You can use kids play clay to stack on top the cleaner without the threads and bolt. Do this in several locations on top of the top and see if the clay squashes when you lower the hood.

Your engine might be newer than a 1987. It may have come with the serpentine setup. Some of these engines were popular in Silverado/Suburban vehicles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
On the air cleaner filter. It might be time for a new one. You will need to see if you might need to use a less tall one for hood clearance. Don't forget to include the height of the threaded section and the top bolts. Do not dent your hood. You can use kids play clay to stack on top the cleaner without the threads and bolt. Do this in several locations on top of the top and see if the clay squashes when you lower the hood.

Your engine might be newer than a 1987. It may have come with the serpentine setup. Some of these engines were popular in Silverado/Suburban vehicles.
I have an edelbrock air cleaner I bought new for the old motor so I’ll try that out. Also thanks for the tips with the clay I’m definitely gonna have to try it.
 

·
Deputy Regional Director, Region 13
Joined
·
5,374 Posts
On the air cleaner filter. It might be time for a new one. You will need to see if you might need to use a less tall one for hood clearance. Don't forget to include the height of the threaded section and the top bolts. Do not dent your hood. You can use kids play clay to stack on top the cleaner without the threads and bolt. Do this in several locations on top of the top and see if the clay squashes when you lower the hood.

Your engine might be newer than a 1987. It may have come with the serpentine setup. Some of these engines were popular in Silverado/Suburban vehicles.
probably is newer than an 87 considering it has centerbolt valve covers and serpentine. now if we could just decode the casting number...


140515




as for the Brawler, it's a Holley!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
probably is newer than an 87 considering it has centerbolt valve covers and serpentine. now if we could just decode the casting number...


View attachment 140515



as for the Brawler, it's a Holley!
The casting number says it’s an 87-95 block and could be a two or four bolt main. With a single piece rear main seal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,227 Posts
This one?
1409363887-953502 or 4Roller or flat tappet cam, one-piece rear seal.

It did not say if truck or car. If car, the serpentine system might be compact enough to fit.
 

·
Deputy Regional Director, Region 13
Joined
·
5,374 Posts
This one?
1409363887-953502 or 4Roller or flat tappet cam, one-piece rear seal.

It did not say if truck or car. If car, the serpentine system might be compact enough to fit.
you could actually read that number?o_O
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
This one?
1409363887-953502 or 4Roller or flat tappet cam, one-piece rear seal.

It did not say if truck or car. If car, the serpentine system might be compact enough to fit.
That’s the one! I checked the number when I bought it. And it was the same casting number as my old block. After reading an article on here about the difference between the two and four bolt mains , I kind of hope it’s a two bolt main. It seems to be in decent shape and you can tell it’s been driven , I’m just weary because I don’t know who built it. But after reading countless reviews of issues people had with supposedly brand new crate motors I definitely didn’t want to spend three grand or more on one only to have it crap out a thousand miles down the road or during the break in period. Work has been busy so … I haven’t had much time to play with it since I got it. I plan on putting it on the engine stand tonight and removing the headers. And the valve covers to check out the heads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 ·
My job is a little different than most. So I don’t go In to work till two in the afternoon most days. And I have to work late into the evening. I have a neighbor right next to my shop area who works a swing shift and I have no idea about what is going on in his life most days. So I try and be respectful and only do the louder stuff during the day. So I am doing a little body work here, a little there during the day . And engine stuff at night cause I can just use hand tools.
140529

the body is pretty straight but the primer or paint or whatever this was supposed to be is in desperate need of a makeover. And I figured while the motor was out I might as well just fix everything that needed to be fixed. When the motor gave way, I was a bit distraught and didn’t know what to do. My wife said “ you have been talking about getting one of these for years, and now you have one. You are already three grand in it. You might as well fix it the way you want it and keep it.” What a woman, she didn’t realize I was gonna spend another thousand on paint supplies and stuff for the body when she said that. She told me last night that if anything ever happened to me she was gonna try and keep our son away from cars and motorcycles. Lol good luck, it’s in his blood.
140530

The paint is pretty rough in spots.
140531

the bottom coat is peeling away in sections. I’m not really concerned with keeping it original I’m just gonna do what I want to do to get what I want out of the truck. I like the simplicity and the beauty of this body style. One thing I’m unsure of is the piece of trim that goes down the center of the door and onto both panels. It’s riveted in place and the rubber strip in the center is missing pieces. I’m considering drilling out the rivets and filling the holes with body filler then painting over it for a smooth finish and look. Anyone done this before ?
140532

140533

I’ve already started on this back side and plan on removing the doors and front clip to do everything by the piece. I have raptor liner for the bed , and am gonna spray the truck with a GM white then a pearl coat and finally a few coats of clear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
485 Posts
My job is a little different than most. So I don’t go In to work till two in the afternoon most days. And I have to work late into the evening. I have a neighbor right next to my shop area who works a swing shift and I have no idea about what is going on in his life most days. So I try and be respectful and only do the louder stuff during the day. So I am doing a little body work here, a little there during the day . And engine stuff at night cause I can just use hand tools. View attachment 140529
the body is pretty straight but the primer or paint or whatever this was supposed to be is in desperate need of a makeover. And I figured while the motor was out I might as well just fix everything that needed to be fixed. When the motor gave way, I was a bit distraught and didn’t know what to do. My wife said “ you have been talking about getting one of these for years, and now you have one. You are already three grand in it. You might as well fix it the way you want it and keep it.” What a woman, she didn’t realize I was gonna spend another thousand on paint supplies and stuff for the body when she said that. She told me last night that if anything ever happened to me she was gonna try and keep our son away from cars and motorcycles. Lol good luck, it’s in his blood. View attachment 140530
The paint is pretty rough in spots. View attachment 140531
the bottom coat is peeling away in sections. I’m not really concerned with keeping it original I’m just gonna do what I want to do to get what I want out of the truck. I like the simplicity and the beauty of this body style. One thing I’m unsure of is the piece of trim that goes down the center of the door and onto both panels. It’s riveted in place and the rubber strip in the center is missing pieces. I’m considering drilling out the rivets and filling the holes with body filler then painting over it for a smooth finish and look. Anyone done this before ? View attachment 140532
View attachment 140533
I’ve already started on this back side and plan on removing the doors and front clip to do everything by the piece. I have raptor liner for the bed , and am gonna spray the truck with a GM white then a pearl coat and finally a few coats of clear.
"drilling out the rivets and filling the holes with body filler"
You need to weld those holes instead of using body filler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #58 ·
"drilling out the rivets and filling the holes with body filler"
You need to weld those holes instead of using body filler.
Noted , I have a wire feed welder that should do the trick , I’ll just have to be careful not to warp the metal. I’m also gonna fill the holes that held the coffin rails as I cannot seem to find any anywhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I got home and ayed in bed for about an hour and just couldn’t sleep. With all the madness in the world at the moment tinkering with this car is about the only thing that eases my mind, so I’m up. I got the old block off the engine stand and took the headers off the new to me engine. They definitely won’t fit the elco. The exhaust ports on the new heads look much better.
140567

nice color and an even amount of carbon buildup. Both on the valve itself and the port. The old ones were burned you could tell it was either running hot ( which I never noticed it only ever got up around 165 degrees or so, when I took it out I knew why. There was no thermostat)
140568

That is one and you can catch a slight glimpse of the other to the left there. Three on this side were burnt I didn’t even bother to check the other head. I’ve got other things to check out.
140569

I removed the valve cover from this side and you can definitely tell a difference between these heads and the others. You can also tell that there was a slight leak on the bottom portion of the valve cover gasket. I wonder if they just weren’t tightened down enough. Two of the four bolts were about finger tight. All I did was put a socket on them and turn it a bit and they loosened right up without a wrench.
140570

140571

see that blue in there ? Looks like these heads were reworked. I just hope whoever did them had some patience and took their time. I’m praying they did it right.
140572

this is the transmission I got in the deal. I think I need to measure the tail to make sure it’s the same length as the one that came out of it. Also might need to find someone to do a rebuild just in case. I’d hate to get it back together only to have the transmission fail. I found a guy semi locally with a Muncie four speed. He says he never had it in a car. So I dunno. It would be quite the gamble at 750$
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I drained the oil and placed a magnet in the stream as it was coming out. I checked it several times to make sure there were no metal chunks or anything , and it all came out clear. After everything I’ve seen I’m unsure of whether I should take the oil pan off or not. I have a fresh set of gaskets for the job. Just thought I would stop and ask for someone’s opinion. I am anxious to get it back on the road. But it’s gonna be a while before I’m able to do that anyway. I have prep work in the engine bay that need to be done and some stuff that needs a undercoat style paint.
to get to the bottom of the block with the last motor I had to remove everything. Heads included because it was just too heavy to turn over on the engine stand. It was physically impossible for me. I tried.
I’m a little weary about crawling under this thing while it’s on a hoist to do it. Any ideas ?
 
41 - 60 of 93 Posts
Top