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Discussion Starter #1
So I've been working on swapping over from an aftermarket rear disk brake setup to an LS1 Camaro disk brake type for the last week or so. I finally got everything bolted up and started gravity bleeding one of the calipers but in my infinite wisdom ended up letting it run dry so now the pedal pretty much goes straight to the floor. I know that means I'll be having to most likely remove the master and bench bleed it but my question is that shouldn't using a vacuum bleeder on one of the caliper bleed lines work instead? All bench bleeding seems to be is simply recirculating fluid to remove the air. Is there something in the master that prevents fluid from going to the lines even under vacuum if it runs dry?
 

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vacuum bleeding is a start. You usually suck air around the threads on the bleeder screws so I have never had any luck as that being a final bleed. The master will eventually gravity bleed but may take quite awhile. Probably quicker to just take it off and re-bench bleed and get on with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Neil. Got the master bled with no issues and now the pedal feels fine but I still can't get pressure to the back brakes. It seems the proportioning valve might need to be messed with? The only things I see attached to it short of the brake lines are the plastic brake warning indicator thing at the top and then a rubber button. Seems like this might be a 2 person job to get everything sorted now.
 

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Thanks Neil. Got the master bled with no issues and now the pedal feels fine but I still can't get pressure to the back brakes. It seems the proportioning valve might need to be messed with? The only things I see attached to it short of the brake lines are the plastic brake warning indicator thing at the top and then a rubber button. Seems like this might be a 2 person job to get everything sorted now.
You may try loosening the rear inlet line from the valve until fluid runs out. If air is trapped in there it’ll run out from the top.

The button on the valve is simply a reset button. Definitely worth a push.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks guys. Got the proportioning valve to free up eventually. I'll still have to replace it at some point as from how it looks its original to the car and not set up for rear disks.
 

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Push the pedal to the floor, hold it there, have somebody open the bleeder screw, let the fluid come out, tighten the screw, release the pedal. Repeat until the brake pedal feels solid and the fluid doesn't have air bubbles..

Next, open the bleeder screws one at a time and let the fluid drain until you need to refill the master. Do not let the fluid go too low though, a two inches from the top of the reservoir is sufficient..
 

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Push the pedal to the floor, hold it there, have somebody open the bleeder screw, let the fluid come out, tighten the screw, release the pedal. Repeat until the brake pedal feels solid and the fluid doesn't have air bubbles..

Next, open the bleeder screws one at a time and let the fluid drain until you need to refill the master. Do not let the fluid go too low though, a two inches from the top of the reservoir is sufficient..
Good advice ....make sure you start at the wheel cylinder farthest away from the master. Work your way to the front in this sequence....RR, LR, RF, LF. Just finished mine and road tested, pedal and braking was excellent. The fluid that I flushed out had been there for thirty-six years....it was muck. New fluid brakes great now!
 
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