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Discussion Starter #1
So I've noticed that very consistently the brake pedal does not return all the way up. These leaves the brake lights on (and worries me that im driving around this way too)
I THINK the car was converted to power brakes. (4 wheel drum right now)

There are two solutions I suspect but wanted to get options before diving too far down any one rabbit hole.

a. some sort of return spring on the pedal
b. brake booster in incorrectly adjusted. (this I where my money is as the brakes do seem to come on excessively fast, all at once, and if not over 15 mph the car will lunge)
 

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I wonder if this might help.
There are likely parts that connect the brake pedal to the master cyl rod.

Chevelle Brake Pedal Booster Rod Fork

I'm not sure if this will help.
But start by turning upside down and look up under dash with your head near the brake pedal.
Do you see a rod fork (I will call it a clevis) that has a pin toward the rear and a threaded bolt hole end toward the front?
It has a threaded rod that you may be able to adjust and lock with a nut to the front of threaded clevis opening.

I had to adjust mine when I changed to hydroboost brakes.

Don't adjust to far for the return, or you may cause pressure on your master cyl and the brakes will be dragging (partially engaged).
Test carefully until you know it works well for you.
130101
 

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Discussion Starter #8
so it looks like I have 3 places for adjustments
1 - here are two places the rod can connect tot he brake pedal
2 - the length of the rod
3 - the switch can be screwed in or out

clearly I can handled 2 and 3.
Which hole should the rod/clevis be attached to?
Also, when I went out to take pics the brake pedal was all the way out and fully in contact with the switch. Perhaps this is because there was no remaining vacuum
in the brake booster?
When running there is a bit of play.


pedal.jpg brake switch.jpg
 

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if the brakes are real touchy, come on real fast, hard to control [I hate that]
i'd try the bottom hole as a test ..
I think that's normal for power brakes..
which means everything will probly need to be adjusted again..
top hole gives you more leg power, and longer pedal stroke..
bottom hole less power, shorter stroke on the pedal..

which booster mount bracket may have something to do with it too..
link> WHICH HOLE SEARCH

the up-stop and brake light switch kinda depends if the pedal is
in the high-up position like normal manual brakes,, or
down closer to the floor like normal power brakes pedal position..

there is another place for adjustments too, or mis adjustments,,
that's between the master cylinder and booster side rod..
sometimes in swaps and kits things get overlooked..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
"there is another place for adjustments too, or mis adjustments,,
that's between the master cylinder and booster side rod..
sometimes in swaps and kits things get overlooked"

This is what I initially suspected as the brakes are all or nothing at slow speeds.... but I have never had a car with 4 wheel power drum brakes, so I wasn't sure
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i adjust the switch so that it turned off sooner.. this lead to the realization that there is play when the car has vacuum, and no play once the car has been sitting and all vacuum in the booster is gone.
 
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