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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So been having problems stoping the elky but I was struggling through it. Some times it was hard like a rock other times it was like I couldn't hold enough pressure to keep the car at a stop, Had to keep pumping the brakes. So I did a little bit of research and come to the conclusion that the master cylinder was the problem. So I looked around and found that in most cases for an extra 40 bucks I could replace both the booster and the master. So I bought the booster/master combo for $130 and was painting it and preping the master with fluids on the bench. Knowing how the brakes were I kept driving while awaiting on monies to get it done RIGHT and then the brakes started squealing Thursday. So can't take my time anymore accumulating the parts slowly. And I went to Advance Auto today and bought everything I needed for an ENTIRE rebuild, not knowing what was there it's just something I do when I get used cars. I'm actually surprised I let this one go as long as I did before doing this. Anyway here is a list of the parts.

$130
Booster
Master

$140
2 front rubber lines
1 rear rubber line
2 calipers
2 wheel cylinders
2 new rotor hubs
2 inner bearings
2 outter bearings
1 set brake pads
1 set brake shoes

I didn't get the drums thought heck I've never seen a set go bad before and they were 50 bucks a pop. But when I took them off I was having troubles. The reason is they are deeply grooved and it was like "steping" them off. They too are wasted so going to have to get new ones and while I'm at it a new rear brake hardware kit.

But this is what I wanted to really talk about. When I pulled the lines off the front calipers and dumped the fluid it was a remarkable sight! You know the bouncy balls that are filled with water and glitter? Well what poured out looked just like one of those balls had busted, there was "glitter" all over the place and fairly large flakes. I have never seen metal flakes in the brake lines. I'm going to take a guess and say it's from the master cylinder going bad. It's 102 now so I'm taking a break from the brakes and will restart after the sun goes down. I have the brake lines draining by gravity while I'm inside. But all in all I'm thinking a nearly complete (as I don't see anything wrong with the metal lines) Brake job for less than $300 isn't so bad. Considering the pads for my truck are almost 100 bucks by themselves.

:beer:
 

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I would consider flushing the lines before finishing your job, especially since you found "stuff" in the old fluid.
 

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I would consider flushing the lines before finishing your job, especially since you found "stuff" in the old fluid.
AND, iffin' ya don't ya will soon live to regret it. Flush EVERYTHING, and that includes ALL cylinder kits. Front, rear, and especially the lines to the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did, gravity is my friend. Removed all the wheel cylinders/calipers and master. Using a rubber hose I filled the lines and let gravity "flush" the clean stuff back out. :) so far that took close to 1 quart to get it to run clear. This was done from master to rear axel and master to calipers.

Still working on the rear ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok everything has been installed. BUT I need expert advice I'm scratching my head here. this was done with 2 people and pushing and holding on the pedal.

with both calipers and wheel cylinders not connected. I bought a "squirt" bottle and some 1/4 clear hose and filled the bottle and connected to the brake line. Squeezed the bottle untill the lines ran clear. did this for both the front and the rear lines coming off the master refilling as needed.

Hooked up all 4 devices to the brake lines and opened the bleeding ports. and again used squirt bottle to fill the devices until it was squirting out the bleed port from above procedure.

then hooked up master and filled it
I bench pre filled it to begin with using the included port plugs and pressing the cylinder in with my hand and rod till no air bubbles showed when pressed in.

went to passenger rear to bleed and got a tiny trickle did this several times.
Brake pedal very hard no drop when opened

went to driver rear and again the same

Went to passenger front and the pedal slowly droped to floor and heavy flow.
tried driver front and pedal rapidly droped to floor.

Scratched head and went back to rears. still the same very little pedal movement and low trickle.

pumped and held and broke the line at the master and air hissed and pedal moved down. did this a few times.

Rears now have good flow
fronts have good flow

brakes are hard as nails like the booster isn't working.
my vac is running a steady 15 no bouncing or twittering. but I can't seem to get it any higher. but my old booster was working at that vac.

could another air bubble be trapped somewhere maybe in the master still thats giving the hard pedal? was this a nightmare bleeding procedure? whats a ballance manifold? i think thats what it was called. something about 60/40. any ideas would be great
 

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I doubt it's air as that makes you have to pump the brakes up. If it won't push easy, (with the motor running) I would suspect a bad booster. I'd start over on the rears, it should pour out the same as the fronts. I have seen the bleeder valves get clogged up. You might want to remove them and look and see if their clogged???:dontknow:
Donny
 

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I know there is a procedure for bleeding a new master cylinder. Could this be an issue? Proportioning valve could be stuck, but I would think that would only show up in driving irregularities.
 

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The porportion valve metering rod (which comes out under pressure) must be blocked, I have a clamp I used but now I bought a power bleeder from Motive Products,, a one man bleeder system,, I have had bleeding issues with the pump & hold method,, clamp this on pump it up to 10 psi and go!! I have never had such a great pedal after bleeding the brakes until I used this bleeder,, but it sounds like the booster is faulty to me,, Matty man
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
PM sent to you about your brakes.
what you all didn't get a chance to hear was Ray called me to talk about a few things. I followed his advice about cracking open the front calipers and panic braking.
I did this twice and a HUGE difference was had after wards. I am still fighting demons in the brake lines but now I feel the booster trying to help. It looks like I still have a ton of air left in the lines, I took it out for a test drive (safely of course in an area where i had plenty of room to coast to a stop using the e brake if needed) and the car did something I have not had it do since I owned it. ..... I locked up a tire braking :) to most this doesn't sound fun but yeah it doesn't have abs brakes so yeah a lock up should happen in a hard panic stop. but only 1 tire locked up thats the left front. also it pulls just a smidigeon to the left when hard braking. I only ran through 1 qt of brake fluid and the chamber closest to the windsheld has micro air bubbles in it the chamber in the front does not. the pedal is softer than it was before but still rather too hard for safe consistant driving. so going to try again tomorrow..
 
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