[oldtinsmith]

Well, I've finally started working on my '80 trucklet. Maybe I'll call it my Grand Am ST (Sport Truck).
After being here in Michigan and sitting outside for the better part of 18 years, I really wanted to see how bad the floors were! To start, I had to take the seat out. The three nuts on the passenger side were rusted so one at a time, I gave them a 5 to 10 second blast of Loctite Freeze & Release, waited about two minutes and slowly backed them out. The three nuts on the drivers side were rusted far worse then the passenger side, so I had to carefully use my air chisel to spin them off and didn't booger the threads!:nanawrench: Got the bench seat out. Took the manual transmission floor trim, boot, and shifter knob out. Kick panels out. To get the seat belt floor bolts out (seized/rusted) I used a pointed bit in my air chisel and with 60 PSI, I gave each Torqs socket hole a few blasts. Then I shot them with the Locktite, slowly backed them out until I felt resistance. Then I gave them a shot of PB Blaster, ran the bolt back in, then backed them back out again. I kept that up until all the bolts were out (and no boogered threads).:nanawrench:The floors weren't as bad as I thought they would be, but I'll be installing new floor pans anyway:dontknow:.
My wife called me in for supper, and I didn't get pictures. I will post some pictures tomorrow.

Doug

 

[steelybill]

Doug, I can see that you know how to get that rusty stuff apart ! Good to hear that you have waded into the project..:smileyb:

Bill

 

[oldtinsmith]

Here's some pictures of the floor and my new frame:

http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/ac127/oldtinsmith/BuildRebuild80004.jpg[/IMG]

Doug

 

[oldtinsmith]

Forgot one:

Doug

 

[O. D. Showtime]

Floors aren't too terrible Doug...frame looks good!

 

[60ElCam]

Stick shift car - cool. Floors are not so bad, but as you say should be replaced. Looks like it has been leaking on both sides of the floor. While it ia ll disassembled, you should probebly pull the heater or A/C box and reseal it at the firewall - the usual passenger side leak area or windshield. The driver's side is usually the windshield seal leaking or rust behind the windshield wiper motor bracket where it meets the firewall. It usually gets clogged with leaves and debris and then rusts through there.

Frame looks really clean . . .

 

[oldtinsmith]

Well, I just came in from the shop after working on the passenger front floor. Cleaned off almost all the paint, and the loose crap in the surface rust areas. Then I checked all the questionable areas with a scratch awl (very firmly), and only found two spots with rust holes (the underside of the pan felt smooth to the touch). The first area was along the seam, about three inches out from the kick panel, about three inches on the floor seam and continues up the toe board about four inches. The series of holes with no hole bigger than 1/4" round!
The second area (both the passenger and drivers sides) is where the bar that keeps the drive shaft from dropping down if the universal joint breaks is bolted to the floor. I'll need to make new covers over the captured nuts.
All said and done, I'm happy with todays outcome.
I've been reading about people using OSPHO to inhibit more rust in the rusted areas.
Any thoughts?

Doug

 

[DONE DEAL DONNY]

Looks like progress is being made!!!! Not real bad to start with having sat so long. Keep the pics. coming!!!
Donny

 

[oldtinsmith]

Just thought I'd post some more parts I've picked up so far!
Brake stuff:

Aluminum core support with the aluminum"X" bracing and the 46" chin spoiler:

More as I get some.

Doug

 

[Zerberfert]

Very nice, keep it up.

 

[Otterfox]

Doug, I've been using the OSPHO on my 'Lero when I did the bed and just recently the under side and frame, it's great stuff! No, it won't make swiss cheese cheddar, but it will stop the rust wherever it can touch it and with a POR or my preference Master Series Silver http://www.masterseriesct.com/ over it, then whatever paint you wanna do: You won't be seeing rust again for a loooooong time.

The OSPHO goes on well, usually I use a spray bottle and a sponge and rubber gloves... and eye protection, etc.
My friend used it on his dune buggy chassis with great results too.

 

[oldtinsmith]

Otterfox,
Do you remember if where you spray the OSPHO,the area must stay wet for a certain amount of time? Do you just spray the rusted areas and not get any on good solid metal? Does it have to be washed off before coating with the masterseriesct.?
Hey, what can I say! I'm old, I'm slow, and I need step by step instructionsoke:LOL!

Doug

 

[Junk Collector]

good info!

 

[Otterfox]

No problem Doug, both products have pretty nice instructions with/on them but:
The OSPHO can go on any metal, you should leave it for about 24 hours to set up, if it gets on good metal and or you put on a lot in an area/got some runs it might make some white powder or leave a tacky film, the rusty metal will turn black as is turns the rust inert, it's really neat to watch!
Do be careful with it... it is acid. But it's great stuff. No worries about overspray on good metal, I use the sponge to help apply more directly and in a coat that dries evenly with out getting runs of excess.

The Master Series stuff I have put on while the OSPHO was wet... But it is best to wait the 24 hours. You don't need to do any cleaning up after the OSPHO unless you really want to, but the MS sticks to OSPHO much better than it does to any solvent residue so I usually leave it since I"m not painting areas that need to look perfect like body panels.

Jeri~

 

[gjwilson84]

Just curious but what is the aluminum core support from? I don't know if I've ever seen one.

 

[oldtinsmith]

Just curious but what is the aluminum core support from? I don't know if I've ever seen one.

Mine came out of a 1978 Pontiac Grand Am that I scrapped out (the core support was one of only a few parts that weren't rusted beyond repair!).

Doug

 

[oldtinsmith]

Well I finally got back to doing work on my El Camino! I started by making a patch for the rusted area in the toe board:

Then I made layout/template for the right and left rear floor pans:

Then I hand made the floor patch pans:

Thanks for looking.

Doug

 

[Keyser Sose]

WOW!! That's great work Doug! :beer:

and here I thought you were having a spell and forgot about us.

:dontknow:

 

[oldtinsmith]

My computer was having a spell! It locked up half way into my post!:dontknow:

Doug

 

[BillyJack]

That's some mighty fine tinwork on the floorpan,Doug.
Playing with oval track Sprint Cars since the 80's, I've bent up quite a bit of 6061 and 2024 aluminum for body panels and wings. I know it wasn't easy getting that thick sheet stock to follow your commands.
Was it all done by hand or did you have the benefit of some equipment?

Bill