El Camino Central Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just gutted the interior of 1985 EC and cleaned up the floorboards. Everything looks almost like brand new except the "foot well" (it would be a foot well if my EC was instead a malibu wagon) behind the passenger seat where water accumulated over several years from a hold in the bed. In this one section approximately 6" x 8", I now have several pin hole perforations of the floor from the rust. I have wire wheeled and applied alcohol to clean this area down to bare metal. It appears that that the existing steel is solid enough to take a weld.

Proposed Plan of Action: My intention is to take my oxy acetylene torch and lay down some weld beads in the afflicted area. Basically lay a bead down and then go to a different end of the same section and lay down another bead and then take a break so we don't over heat the area. Come back and do some more bead. Once the area is covered in welding bead then grind it down flat and cover with sealer.

Has anyone else repaired some rust areas this way?

Any downsides to my plan of action?
 

·
Deputy Director, Region 3 PA (west)
Joined
·
1,580 Posts
I've done minor floorboard repairs in smaller "non-stressed" areas couple different ways. A few I did using POR-15 with a couple layers of fiberglass mesh. Another was done with a propane torch and plumber's solder, using a paint stick to spread the molten solder evenly, kinda like the old-school bodymen did it. Both methods were done on less than valuable cars but both lasted indefinitely. I'd lean toward the POR-15 method if you have any undercoat or sound deadener in the area, to avoid the stinking mess and/or fire.

Bill
 

·
Venerated Member RIP
Joined
·
2,918 Posts
x2 on the POR-15 product line. I've repaired rusted through areas using their mesh and POR-15 paint. This stuff hardens up and you need a grinder to get it off. Did my elco windshield and rear glass channels about 10 years ago, still holding up good. ALso, when I replaced 4 lowest sections of my rusty floorboard with new panels, the entire area was sealed in POR-15, then with dynamat.
 

·
Deputy Director, Region 1
Joined
·
2,566 Posts
Use por15 epoxy then paint over it with por15
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,102 Posts
if you dont want the epoxy aproach you can use brass or as stated above use solder.i personaly like putting metal back in over the epoxy aproach wether its a patch panel or filler weld.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,527 Posts
Try Eastwoods no-lead lead,, stronger than glass and the health hazards are not as bad as the old lead,, I still will use a mask when I do mine this spring,, Matty man
 

·
Participating Member
Joined
·
2,257 Posts
You must eliminate all rust before welding. From your description, you'd probably need a patch panel. I've also used POR-15. Easy to apply, works great!
 

·
Deputy Director, Region 1
Joined
·
2,566 Posts
There's a few ways you can do it. Using oxy/acetylene torches to weld over pinholes isn't the best idea. You'll burn through some of it, you'll have all kinds of popping and sparks flying all over the interior. Cutting out the area and welding in new metal is the best approach. If you're looking for something a little easier, there are some other ways.
You can fill the area with metal-to-metal or all-metal. These are aluminum reiforced waterproof body fillers. They hold up nice especialliy if primed and protected by paint and undercoating and you have stopped the leak. The por15 epoxy gets hard as a rock and is also waterproof and works well in this situation when topcaoted with por15.
Brass as in brazing probably won't last as long. You have dissimilar metals and paint or plastic doesn't adhere that well to the brass. Can it be done? Have I ever done ? yes. It'll last a few years at best.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top