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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so, I followed Bills instructions on the fitment guide and I believe I am good on the fronts...the rears tho...maybe?

Fronts are Nitto NT555 G2 245/45/17
Rears are Nitto NT555 G2 275/50/17

All front bushings are shot and shes sits on original springs with some edelbrock shocks I put on many years back but has mostly just been sitting so who knows what shape they are in.

I have only been able to put on the front and rear driver side at this point but will mount them all up shortly to check clearances... All my tools are 90 miles away and I don't have the courage to ask the mechanic to borrow his...

Front and rear suspension IS happening soon. I reached out to SC&C but havent heard back yet. (soon meaning the money is burning a hole in my pocket.) Im leaning towards "The Basics" package plus a few bits here and there but this does have lowering springs...

Rear springs are stock, stock rear end (likely buying a Quick Performance complete 9" rear end that bolts in), air adjust shocks that have 0 air in them, junk.

My questions is, based on these photos, is this setup doable? Now that I have them bolted up, what measurements do I need to take to see if this is going to work, or what measurements are needed to make it work?

The tires I can still swap out at Discount if we dont think this is doable but I should probably get that done soon if I must.

Ride quality is low on my priority list. Performance and looks are. I guess this post could really fit in both suspension and this category.

Any help, ideas, articles that can help point me in the right direction, all help tremendously. Since I moved a few years back, I really dont have any second opinions or anyone to brainstorm with.

Also, I can take more pictures or of any particular angle if needed.

Thanks.
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Hard to tell from the pics but looks awesome. I think the rears will rub in a road dip or if you decide to use your ElCo as a truck. The fronts in these pics look like they will be good with a suspension geometry change. I do see that the fronts might hit the front of the fender at the bottom corner, I cut mine to clear at a 45 degree angle. Back to the rear, if you are running a very tight suspension without regard to ride quality they might work out! Hope it does!

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Joe, i took these pictures just now but keep in mind this is in the air. not sure how much that changes this measurement.... im not against cutting if i have to but id like keep it to the absolute minimum. Im hoping ill be good on the fronts. pics are with wheels straight and then angled right at the closest point from steel to rubber.

Yea, i dont mind a rough ride and I have no plans of putting anything in the bed...
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Thanks Joe, i took these pictures just now but keep in mind this is in the air. not sure how much that changes this measurement.... im not against cutting if i have to but id like keep it to the absolute minimum. Im hoping ill be good on the fronts. pics are with wheels straight and then angled right at the closest point from steel to rubber.

Yea, i dont mind a rough ride and I have no plans of putting anything in the bed... View attachment 129721 View attachment 129722
I'm pretty sure those will hit, probably just sitting still. I had to remove the front splash shield and pull the fender out a bit and then cut the 45degree angle. This is with 235/60/16 tires on the ground full weight.

WIN_20200519_20_22_27_Pro.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When I turned that exact wheel by hand, it rubbed. When I turned the driver side wheel by hand to full lock, it didnt rub the sway bar. idk. all the bushings are shot so that may have a little to do with it.
 

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When I turned that exact wheel by hand, it rubbed. When I turned the driver side wheel by hand to full lock, it didnt rub the sway bar. idk. all the bushings are shot so that may have a little to do with it.
I've seen sway bars set a bit off center. When pushing maximum size on tires even a 1/4 inch difference from side to side becomes a rub on one side and 1/2 inch clearance on the other. You are definitely pushing the size limit! And if this is still without weight on the tires you might start getting ready for a different size.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I dont like your tone, Joe! haha I know, im thinking that may be what I have to do.

as crazy as it may seem... could i create a "stop" so the tire doesnt ever turn past a certain angle? its so dang close that im not going to lose a whole lot of turning radius... just an idea just unsure how dumb of one!
 

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I dont like your tone, Joe! haha I know, im thinking that may be what I have to do.

as crazy as it may seem... could i create a "stop" so the tire doesnt ever turn past a certain angle? its so dang close that im not going to lose a whole lot of turning radius... just an idea just unsure how dumb of one!
I said "might" get ready for a different size. Determination has it's advantages! Back to the sway bar being centered. 1/4 inch to the drivers side will get you centered for clearance.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Not sure if its determination or stubbornness! another thing to think about is the 1-5/16 SC&C sway bar im looking at buying... this would also make a difference. if my memory is correct, i think i had a significant amount of room on the drivers side but will check tomorrow. I still think rebuilding the front end is going to play a role.

oh, and thanks for your input Joe!
 
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