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Was lucky enough to find a 1986 Elky with 305 engine automatic with 62,000 original miles, was hit in the right front fender in 2002 the owner then parked and put it under a tarp and forgot about it (he was smart enough to non-op it for CA DMV so fees stopped) a few days ago it came up for sale...car is in pristine condition...with about every option you could get in 1986...so I jumped on it...and had it towed to my place...any way it has not been started since 2002 and I was wondering if anyone might have some suggestions on best procedure to fire her up...I will replace the oil and gas, and such but thought there might be some other tricks..anyone have any ideas would very much like to share any you may have
 

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Well mine wasnt started for 3 years, so some problems we had were mostly the carb.

- I had an idle of 3500rpm because the idle was tamperered with.
- Make sure you change the oil. Even if it only has a couple of miles on it, it is 8 years old.
-My fan clutch was messed up so make sure your elky doesnt over heat
- You will very likely have a VERY hard time starting it. You might end up having to put some gas in the carb.
-i would drain the old gas, and run new gas through the car
-new plugs and wires
-top off fluids.


Those are some main points to start with....

Hope i helped and POST PICS!!!

Brandon
 
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If you hear any noise out of the norm,SHUT IT OFF! It's a lot easier to start if you get it started about 5-7 times running for at least 15 mins each time. The oil and gas are the 2 major things to change. Then trans,brake and antifreeze.
 

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If you are changing the plugs, squirt some oil in each cylinder, then turn it over maybe by hand or with the starter with the coil wire disconnected. Make sure it is not froze up, but either way, get it spinning before you fire it up.

HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY !!! You never know. Do it outside in an open area.

Very soon after starting it, open the radiator cap and make sure you see some churning and such as soon as the thermostat opens, This make sure first that it opens, then that there are not plugs in the lines. It DOES NOT check if there are pluged areas in the heads or manifold. As the car warms up, touch the heads and intake if youcan and see if you can find any spots hotter than the surrounding area. A thermo reader is obviously better. If there is a plugged channel, that area will often get hotter faster.

Spray the outside of the carb with WD and wiggle all the linkages.

Just some stuff.

Good Luck
 

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I doubt he needs to change hoses. He should be fine unless there is a leak.
I would definatly change the hoses. Unused rubber parts go bad and you don't want to find out at 75 mph that the lower rad hose just dumped all the coolant on the hiway. Vacuum hoses, rad and heater hoses, brake lines and belts are a must in my book. Less than $100 and a half days work. Remember, work smarter, not harder..
 

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Pull the fuel tank and take it to a radiator shop that can clean it correctly. Re-install and put fresh gas in it. When you are actually going to fire it up take the distributor out and get/borrow a chevy oil pump priming tool and after changing the oil and filter spin the oil pump for several minutes. Then with plugs out and distributor + disconnected crank in 10 - 15 second spurts several times Wait a minute or two in between to let the starter cool back down. This will get things lubed back up and at the same time hopefully be pumping fuel up to the carb. Watch the carb close while cranking in case it starts flooding over because of a stuck float or needle from all the gum that IS in there after 8 years.
 

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With a fresh tank of fuel I would put a bottle of seafoam to help clean the carb n other parts.
 

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First steps: Change coolant, oil, gas, plugs, plug wiring. It would most likely help to rebuild the carb, or at least spray it thoroughly several times (carb removed). Remove HEI, and turn oil pump with a drill and a device for doing this ( LONG screw driver without handle will work) to get oil into the upper cylinders/valve areas. Put carb back on and fire it up. It's lubed, and new fuel should start it. Then you work on the safety stuff that MIGHT need to be done. Raddy might need to be flushed/dipped, and I would also drain the tranny and rearend (Elky's). That's a good start.:smileyb:
 

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Bruce, you can spin the pump with a screwdriver shaft or similar but on a chevy it will just dump all the pressure around the shaft and not pump oil down through the lifter journals. You need the right tool for the chevy.
 

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Neil, you are correct in what you're saying, BUT, if you put the shaft onto a drill, it will spin the oil thru the lifter journals. Theright tool from Chevy is just about the same thing. A drill add the force to get the oil where it's needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks to everyone...did the Chevy oil pump priming tool after changing oil..pulled plugs thew in some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder, turned it over by hand, I had drained the gas from tank, cleaned the Carb, and pulled thermostat...she fired up after a few trys, blew out the Mystery Oil and ran like a charm...shut her down and ordered all new rubber, and and will do a complete complete coolant flush...can't wait to get it on the road!:nanawrench::nanawrench:
 

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way to get-er-done so fast. now thats a man on a mission.....:You_Rock:nuf said.
 

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I would definatly change the hoses. Unused rubber parts go bad and you don't want to find out at 75 mph that the lower rad hose just dumped all the coolant on the hiway. Vacuum hoses, rad and heater hoses, brake lines and belts are a must in my book. Less than $100 and a half days work. Remember, work smarter, not harder..
Yep that happened to me. My 89 escort GT sat for 4 years before i got it, one day driving down the road a hose blew car overheated and i warped my head. Change them hoses.
 
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