3 Hours and and yet another question. thanks to all for the help by the way, but both my windows have problems rolling up. The tabs toward the front of the window catch the glass and push it to the outside leaving a gap. The only way to prevent this is to push the window inward while closing ot from the outside. Ideas?
closing windows
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Are you talking about these tabs above the window ? If you are you can bend them ! If not these, Sorry I don't know !! & Welcome from Florida !! :florida:
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15,368 Posts
Those suckers come off I have been fighting one for a year. My window just catches one and the glass slips to the outside.
Thanks
robert:You_Rock:
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15,368 Posts
No I didn't even know you could. I'm off by a nano. and my door is all taped up .
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6,209 Posts
There is an adjustment for that. Start by reading in the articles and how to section.
And welcome! :beer:
This one: http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?p=380830#post380830
And welcome! :beer:
This one: http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?p=380830#post380830
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15,368 Posts
I know but my inner door is taped up for sound and the stuff I used you need pliers to get it off so I put a new motor first. If you don't know what your doing you will never get it back to where you started.
Thanks
Robert
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4,524 Posts
The clops are called Blow Out clips, and were added to the G-bodies because at highway speed the movement of air across the windows will cause them to pull away from the gasket.
Another common problem ( that causes issues with this clip) is the nylon "guide" that is riveted to the lower rear section of the glass. These tend to get broken over time ( people using the window to close the door). This guide fits into a metal spike that protrudes down into the door about 3 inches from the top of the door, so the last three inches of the up movement is guided by this rod and guide. If the guide is bad, you will never get the window to adjust and close properly.
You can test to see if this is broken by rolling up the window with the door open. Grab the window and move it in/out ( like you were going to close or open the door). If there is any play between the window and the door( mine would move maybe 1-2 inches at the top of the glass before the door started to move), then the guide is bad.
Another common problem ( that causes issues with this clip) is the nylon "guide" that is riveted to the lower rear section of the glass. These tend to get broken over time ( people using the window to close the door). This guide fits into a metal spike that protrudes down into the door about 3 inches from the top of the door, so the last three inches of the up movement is guided by this rod and guide. If the guide is bad, you will never get the window to adjust and close properly.
You can test to see if this is broken by rolling up the window with the door open. Grab the window and move it in/out ( like you were going to close or open the door). If there is any play between the window and the door( mine would move maybe 1-2 inches at the top of the glass before the door started to move), then the guide is bad.
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Is there an easy way to replace the guide? Mine is broken and I don't know how to get to it. It is just rivited, so if I could get to it, it shouldn't be that bad to replace.
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That must be my problem it's loose as a goose when up and the door is open You did it again Mike!!!!! I just got another Star Bucks card and I don't drink coffee PM me your address and I will send it to you.
Thanks
Robert
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The rivets can be drilled out through the door. There are a couple of access holes in the door for this ( sorry Robert!!). I used 1/4-20 bolts with nylock nuts to re-install. Takes a little fiddling to get the nuts on, but it is doable.
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Broken Window Guides
These things are a major support for your windows when rolled up and if they are broken like mine were, then you will never get a good seal on the window. I had a hard time finding the 1/4" rivet gun to install the new rivets until I went to Harbor Freight. I bought a power window rebuild kit from Ecklers that has since been discontinued but the parts can be purchased separately, which included the two 1/4" rivets for the guide and 5 more for the power window motor and replacement roller guides. I also bought inner and outer felts as well as all new weatherstripping for the upper rail and door panel. Passenger side is finished and it closes like a brand new door. trying to post a picture of the guides before and after.
These things are a major support for your windows when rolled up and if they are broken like mine were, then you will never get a good seal on the window. I had a hard time finding the 1/4" rivet gun to install the new rivets until I went to Harbor Freight. I bought a power window rebuild kit from Ecklers that has since been discontinued but the parts can be purchased separately, which included the two 1/4" rivets for the guide and 5 more for the power window motor and replacement roller guides. I also bought inner and outer felts as well as all new weatherstripping for the upper rail and door panel. Passenger side is finished and it closes like a brand new door. trying to post a picture of the guides before and after.
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478 Posts
Hmmmm, and I thought all along it was poor design, very helpful thread indeed.
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oke:
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I pent some time adjusting the windows with the help of a couple threads here. It takes some fiddling to figure out what the different adjusters do. I got mine adjusted to hold out everything but a car wash. And the windows usually tuck in behind those blow out clips as the doors close, unless my wife slams the door. ;-)
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