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I've dumped waaaaayyy more time, effort, and money into mine than I care to admit since I purchased my '82 almost 3 years ago but at least now I've got a sweet reliable ride to cruise in. The parts are cheap and pretty easy to work on too which is a major bonus.
Agreed!! hear, hear!
 

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You can “borrow” a UV leak detector kit from autozone. Requires a small refundable deposit. I did this on a vehicle my wife had a few years ago. The kit works way better than just a black light, it has some sort of special glasses you wear that really show off the dye under the UV light.
 

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Thanks everybody. I guess I am just upset because of what I have already spent since I bought the car in March. Initial A/C repairs, new wheels, tires, bed cover, floor mats, Bluetooth receiver, speakers, etc, and now a whole new A/C system. I will get over it. It's just aggravating to have so much tied up in a driver quality car.

I sure hope to get to meet some of you soon. Maybe that's it. Spending all that money and not a single show or GTG. MAYBE SOON!
thats the price WE pay for the ride we choose (taken from THE GOD FATHER movie )
 

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I just learned how to service my own 40-year old AC system by watching youtube, asking questions, and just trying it. My 80 El Camino now blows cold 134a after charging with dye, fixing a leak on the low side (which was an o-ring), vacuuming the system down for 30 min and re-charging.

View attachment 130949
I give you a BIG atta boy, maby a few OHHHHH's and AHHHH,,😈 stay healthy
 

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87 elcamino v6 4.3 t.b.i.
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If your system is still setup for R-22, it'll need to be fixed if swapping to R-134a or the new R-1234yf. Chemical changes in composition make the old seals swell, like rubber soaked in tranny fluid, and they'll leak like bandits. It'll mean basically changing out compressor and every seal in the system.

If it's already R-134a, you can switch it to R-1234yf, since R-134a is getting phased out anyway, using the same equipment.

Most autopart stores will have a small can of R-134a that includes dye, sometimes even a gage, just throw it in, go for test drive, and hit the engine bay with a black light. Make sure to check the compressor, many times it's the shaft seal. But it will be quite evident. Should have @ 25 psi to 35 psi on the low side port when the clutch is engaged.
Tackling my a.c. this fall (134 converted) ive got a pump,researched and was schooled on process.going to get the gauges, and give it a go, but your post was first ive heard about alternative refrigerant 1234yf. I'm running orig equip, and expecting a small leak or two hopefully o rings, but I don't want to change rubber lines that 134 leaks so readily from. Is 1234 better in this regard? Can you tell me anything about it? Pros cons?
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, stock 305/200R4/QJ
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I'd be considering it OEM now for most cars, with 134 still being used mainly for diy ppl on older cars. That and it's at the parts store, do they'll do a simple recharge and not notice that their car is 1234 not 134 and have issues later, needing more professional help.
 
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