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I’m close to getting it running. But without doors, glass and front sheet metal, I’ll be limited to my drive way and the neighborhood if I dare!
 

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Update: I put power steering fluid in and turned the motor over with a remote starter switch to build some pressure and test for leaks. Bad leak! Turns out that the return fitting on the Hydro Boost had a crack. Took the unit out because the fitting threads broke off inside the unit. Got that out and ordered an eBay replacement but stainless instead of brass. Hopefully I will get it back in this weekend and try again for other leaks. Is it just me?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Larry
Your images don't show that part of the install. Were you using brass banjo A/N connectors? Is that what broke?
 

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It was the brass return fitting that came with the unit. I had adapted it to AN-6 using a union. The extra length probably acted as a lever and helped create a condition where if bumped the brass could crack and eventually break. The replacement will avoid the union as it has an AN/6 male. The little piece of threads on the top right is what broke. Second picture shows the new fitting in place.
 

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Hello all,

just a quick question about the return lines to the power steering pump.

Would it be possible and a good or bad idea to run the return line from the power steering pump to the original hose connection from the reservoir
and
for the return line from the hydro boost unit drill a hole into the reservoir and use a connection like this ATP-FTG-100_450.jpg of course using a nut on the inside of the reservoir.


Just to stay away from the T-connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Hello all,

just a quick question about the return lines to the power steering pump.

Would it be possible and a good or bad idea to run the return line from the power steering pump to the original hose connection from the reservoir
and
for the return line from the hydro boost unit drill a hole into the reservoir and use a connection like this View attachment 106734 of course using a nut on the inside of the reservoir.


Just to stay away from the T-connection.

Shear Performance modified the '70 Gen 1 pump by adding a second return line to the reservoir, converting to Shear Performance specially design AN fittings. I don't think they needed to modify the pump. They welded (possibly brazed) the fitting to the PS reservoir.

I'm not sure why they had a local company custom build that connector. Possibly they added something to reduce fluid aeration. They welded the fitting. I will ask them to see if they can clarify for us.
 

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Hi guys....I just had Lee and Son in Fullerton Ca. install my CCP Hydrotech system on my 1969 El Camino and they did a awesome job!!! Lee and his son Jeff are kool guys and pay attention to detail. Lee said most people don't install the conversion correctly because the instructions are wrong!!!! He has done over 50 installs of this kit all successfully and was doing a 55 Chevy along with mine last week.
While he was doing it I had him install a 4 piston Wilwood front disc system on also. Very happy with the results! For those who are interested here is Lee's info.
Lee and Son
711 S. Harbor Blvd
Fullerton, Ca.
714)446-1295
 

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Hello Zx1truth
could you please post some pictures how the return line to the power steering pump reservoir was made.


Thanks.
OK........on the first top pic the non braided line is the non pressure return line tee'd into the non pressure side of the pump line. It works flawlessly. Lee said the instructions said to pump it to a pressurized line......NOT!

Hope these help.
 

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Wow!!! Thank you for shearing your build with us!! My 3500 Chevy work truck has hydro boost and its fantastic!!
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I mentioned that the hardware kit included a clevis that provided the ability to adjust the distance before the brake pedal started to engage the brakes.

After the install, my brakes were dragging just a little. Before heading home, Justin had showed me how to adjust the pedal clevis assembly.

To orient you to the image below, turn upside down looking up into the area behind the dash board. Put the top of your head against the rubber brake pedal.
You can loosen the locking nut and remove the clevis pin. Turn the clevis on the adjustor rod to lengthen or shorten the distance. Put the pin back and secure it. Tighten the adjustor lock nut. Test them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Three part answer.

This is a 50 year old vehicle, so I am OK to drive in the slow lane. Fwy lanes had been repainted and the car that was merging onto fwy, no longer could go straight like they could 10 days earlier. I needed to do a panic stop in the slow lane from 60 down to 20 with a semi tractor on my right. Locked all 4 tires and straight as could be until the trailer tires went passed me. The hydraboost applied the pressure. However stopping straight goes to Sheer Performance for adjusting the rest of the brake system well for me.

DStinch and FauxRS use electric vacuum assist and are happy with their solutions. See their comments above. May be less $. Check FauxRS post for his good links.

I did look at POL Performance Online.
Check post #18.

Notes:
Hydrtech had new Bosch units, where POL is rebuilding units.
Hydratech has a billet firewall bracket.
Hydratech hardware kit with hose looks to have additional parts.
POL may save some you some $.
 

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@rushgator and all others,


sorry for not giving a feedback on my rebuild. And my English writing.



First of all the braking is "einfach nur geil".



You really have to look at your mirror that the car behind you is not to near before you step on the paddle because never ever they are expecting that an old car can stop on a very short distance.


I am more than happy that I did spend the money for this rebuild.


So where did buy the system and why?


First I did look on the internet and yes you can get the unit on e-bay and from some
tuning shops.
But it is not only the unit you need hoses, fittings and some other parts.


Because I had to get the system over to Germany so I was looking for a complete set
and here "Old Bear" did mention the company "hydratechbraking".


So I did visit their website and did call them they were very helpful did answers all my questions even the stupid ones.



So I did sleep on night and the next day I did order the system from hydratechbraking.
1964 - 1972 General Motors 'A' Body Hydraulic Brake Assist Unit - Model # 3014


Some weeks later I did get a nice black box.

Did open it and was very pleased how nice the parts were packed.


Then I did start with the installation and what should I say it was going just fine.
The instructions are very good and will guide you through the installation.
And if something is not clear believe it or not you can call them even after you did buy the system and they will help you out.


It might by that you will not need the help because you can ask other people in you area and the chances to get the right answers will be much higher than here were I am in Germany were every shop tells you yes we can fix it and then you pay a lot money and when you have your car back it is sometimes even worse.



I would say spend some more money and get a rebuild kit which is really plug and play.

And not were you have to walk on a Sunday to AutoZone because some fittings are missing.



Will see to get some pictures made on the weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Glad the hydroboost brake system worked well for you.
Looking forward to the images of your installation.

www.HydraTechbraking.com is my thoughts for best full kit if you have limitations on putting a kit together.

I have heard that Paul has also assembled a good Customer Support Team.
 
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