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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sup guys, I recently installed a 468 in my 68 SS Camino, and need some suspension tips. I have Moroso trick spring up front with Chassis Engineering 3-way adustable shocks. I was told a rear sway br would help. Do you guys have any other suggestions? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mahalo.
 

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Big rear sway bar. No front sway bar. Box the lower control arms for the rear axle. Air lift springs to pre-load the right rear tire. Big tires. :)
 

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When you pull the control arms to box them, go ahead in install poly bushings. Boxing is easy, just weld 1/8 plate steel to the bottom along the length of the arm.
 

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Drag racing suspension huh? How about some more info? Type trans, engine horsepower and torque? Is the car for an occasional trip to the dragstrip, every weekend or strictly for racing? The more you can tell us what your plans for the car are, the better someone here at ECC will be able to help you...there's a lot of experience and a wealth of knowledge here at ECC.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all of the replies. I have a 468, with a turbo 400 trans, and use a 28x9 slick. Appreciate all the help, and posts I've been getting. 8)
 

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You probably already know this but in case,,,

You want the whole truck to launch at once. I'd suggest that you change all the old body bushings to a new Polygraphite set, I'd add some performance springs front and back. Look for Performance springs not just HD or BB springs. The Heavy duty or Big Block springs will not do you any good at launch. You need something that will release the truck all at once.

Sway bars will not give you all that much if your planning to drag race the truck. Those will be better suited to a car that will need the extra handling on the Road. I'd either box the rear control arms or buy some better rear control arms.

I'd also get a set of Airbags for the back so that you'll be able to preload the rear end for take-offs. Go as wide as possible for the rear tires, you'll need a lot of surface area for good grip off the line. A locker for the rear end is another good upgrade and good set of gears, 4.10 , 4.88 or up to a 5.88:1 for all out drag. Strip out all the unnecessary weight including the wiring if your going pure drag racer you don't need all that junk for racing.

This is just my opinion
 

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The center drive is to make the car handle better not better ETs. Try out a set no hop bars or anti hop bars with a pair of adjustable upper arms and poly bushings in the lower arms to start. Also box the lower arms. Cheapest easiest way for better ETs.
 

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There's a lot of good advice on this thread but it's for mainly track car.. If your going to drive a lot on the street I'm talking like 5 thousand or more a year Then you don't want boxed lowers and poly bushings.. You would want adjustable rear arms with spherical bushings, lined with Delrin. Actually this is what you would want for drag racing too lol...I like the Spohn Del Sphere rear arms. If you go this route make sure you get the Delsphere and not the cheaper arms..

I remember people using those real long Chevy truck control arms on there Chevelles and GTOs...
 

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There's a lot of good advice on this thread but it's for mainly track car.. If your going to drive a lot on the street I'm talking like 5 thousand or more a year Then you don't want boxed lowers and poly bushings.. You would want adjustable rear arms with spherical bushings, lined with Delrin. Actually this is what you would want for drag racing too lol...I like the Spohn Del Sphere rear arms. If you go this route make sure you get the Delsphere and not the cheaper arms..

I remember people using those real long Chevy truck control arms on there Chevelles and GTOs...
so you're saying boxing the rear control arms is a bad thing if driving more than 5k miles/yr? how so? ride quality?
 

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If I remember right the Factory boxed these on the later SS and Olds W series cars? So how could they be bad? I would say he means only the bushings.
 
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