[HKDUP87]

I'm think'n going elect. fans sense I will have the engine out so this is the time if I'm going to do it. They will be for a stock 350 260hp new crate motor I will be installing in the near future. I would like to buy a kit for easy installation . Do they make a kit that replaces the fan shroud and bolts right up in it's place? I have seen other post on the elect. part and I don't want to put a toggle switch inside the cab to turn them on because I will forget to turn them on for sure so I kit with all the elect. parts (relay/temp. sensor) etc. included but not for an extra$$$$ for a couple parts. This is another area I know nothing about except it sounds like the way to go so if anybody who has installed one that has the kit number or where to buy on at a good price please let me know .:beer: I will be putting in a four row radiator in also I already have that fits perfect where the original mounting is.
Thanks
Robert

 

[TrannyMike]

I'm running a 16" single fan that's rated at 2400CFM and a Derale fan wiring kit on a Champion 725HP rated all aluminum radiator. I'm using Peak 5 year/150,000 mile anti-freeze mixed 50/50 and this set up cools fast. The fan comes on a 200 degrees and shuts off at 190 degrees. The fan controller temp range is adjustable and it will turn on automatically when the air conditioner comes on. The top radiator support was purchased from Dixie Monte Carlo. The radiator fit with no mods except for the half circle you can see in the top support. You would need to do that so the hood spring fits right. I took a die grinder with a deburing bit and it came out nice. :beer:

 

[HKDUP87]

I'm running a 16" single fan that's rated at 2400CFM and a Derale fan wiring kit on a Champion 725HP rated all aluminum radiator. I'm using Peak 5 year/150,000 mile anti-freeze mixed 50/50 and this set up cools fast. The fan comes on a 200 degrees and shuts off at 190 degrees. The fan controller temp range is adjustable and it will turn on automatically when the air conditioner comes on. The top radiator support was purchased from Dixie Monte Carlo. The radiator fit with no mods except for the half circle you can see in the top support. You would need to do that so the hood spring fits right. I took a die grinder with a deburing bit and it came out nice. :beer:

http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j336/Mikes_Transmissions/Motor/Deralefankit.jpg
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j336/Mikes_Transmissions/Motor/Fan2.jpg
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j336/Mikes_Transmissions/Motor/Fan3.jpg

Looks like the fan is mounted to the radiator? that's something simple and looks clean.
Thanks

 

[1980SteelBeast]

Electric fans? You guys need those or want them?
I'm losing about 15hp with my flex fan but 15hp is made up somewhere else on my engine.:secret:

 

[woody31]

Electric fans? You guys need those or want them?
I'm losing about 15hp with my flex fan but 15hp is made up somewhere else on my engine.:secret:

beast beast beast, a loss is a loss, ditch the flex fan, step up and go electric,
robert i run a dual electric fan set up from a olds alero-fits radiator perfect, i used relays from a cadillac sts, wired one to come on with key on so i dont melt that wore out truck motor, cools good never goes above 195
hope this helps :beer::texas:

 

[TrannyMike]

Electric fans? You guys need those or want them?
I'm losing about 15hp with my flex fan but 15hp is made up somewhere else on my engine.:secret:

Get out of here dude! Your motor got beat by a 305 in Belton. You didn't gain 15HP you lost with a 383. You need to redo something on that motor. oke:

 

[Keyser Sose]

:buttkick: opcornsmiley:

 

[mrblanche]

Just as a minor point, you don't get anything for free. It takes as much power for an electric fan to move a given amount of air as it would a flex fan or thermostatically controlled hydraulic fan. The electric fan doesn't work all the time, like the flex fan does. But, when it does, your alternator (probably supplemented by your battery) has to produce the same amount of power. Then, when the fan kicks off, the alternator has to make up the charge loss in the battery.

 

[woody31]

Just as a minor point, you don't get anything for free. It takes as much power for an electric fan to move a given amount of air as it would a flex fan or thermostatically controlled hydraulic fan. The electric fan doesn't work all the time, like the flex fan does. But, when it does, your alternator (probably supplemented by your battery) has to produce the same amount of power. Then, when the fan kicks off, the alternator has to make up the charge loss in the battery.

I couldn't dosagree more.. you gain hp when you remove all that weight amd rotatimg mass . The alternator wont work any harder or take up more power kust like running blower motor on high less weght =more hp simple physics try it sometimeoke:

 

[HKDUP87]

I couldn't dosagree more.. you gain hp when you remove all that weight amd rotatimg mass . The alternator wont work any harder or take up more power kust like running blower motor on high less weght =more hp simple physics try it sometimeoke:

I love you guys I ask a question about elect. fans and my thread is hijacked by HORSE POWER AGAIN !!!!!!! WODDY/MIKE You started out great and I got some good input so my thread is all yours.oke: Don't get me wrong it cracks me up listening to all of you once the main topic gets lost in the posts.:nanawrench::beer::texas:


Anymore input that other members can share would be great and I have all the HP I need .
Thanks
Robert

 

[EL S ONE]

A Nuke reactor can run your fans real good. Then again its heavy.:yell:

 

[Rix85]

I run a Flexalite Black Magic Extreme 180. Fits well, full shroud, moves 3300 cfm, comes with a wiring kit. Handles the So Cal heat....

 

[HKDUP87]

I run a Flexalite Black Magic Extreme 180. Fits well, full shroud, moves 3300 cfm, comes with a wiring kit. Handles the So Cal heat....

Thanks.

 

[Jack_K]

I have a dual speed fan from a Town Car. They're also used on other Fords. Here's how I wired mine.

Here's one on ebay. There are also new ones for about the same price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TAURUS-SABLE-CONTINENTAL-3-8-ELECTRIC-2-SPD-FAN-HOT-ROD-MUSTANG-ROCK-CRAWLER-/261041703583?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc74c4a9f&vxp=mtr

Jack

 

[ALAsh]

I'm running the Spal twin fans set up with the Spal computer system. I use the original shroud and built brackets to fit the Spal fans snugly against my new radiator. Unless you look closely you wouldn't know I was running electric fans but still running the original system.

The radiator the AlumaTech radiator made to look like the original radiator but it has far superior cooling capability.

With the Spal computer system you can dial in when you want the fans to come on as well as set the low temperature when they will shut off. With the interface to the AC system both fans automatically come on anytime the air conditioner is running. The unit also has a manual override so you can turn both Fans on anytime you want . Both fans run through an electronic interlock so you never run the risk of leaving the fans on when the ignition is in the off position.

Not the least expensive way to go but the system works flawlessly.
Total cost for the Spal electronic fans system and the Alumatech radiator is in the neighborhood of $800.

Arnie in Iowa

 

[1980SteelBeast]

Get out of here dude! Your motor got beat by a 305 in Belton. You didn't gain 15HP you lost with a 383. You need to redo something on that motor. oke:

NO,listen to the vid and you'll see I let off twice so my ride wouldn't shut off like it did all night. My module kept heating up and shutting it off. Come bring that crate engine down here so I can show you what a REAL built engine performs like..Crate's are for sissies

....JK Keep it up!:beer:
By the way HKDUP,are you setting the fans up for pushers or pullers?

 

[gilby]

Get out of here dude! Your motor got beat by a 305 in Belton. You didn't gain 15HP you lost with a 383. You need to redo something on that motor. oke:

...OUCH...thats gotta hurt....oke::wow:
:beer:

 

[HKDUP87]

NO,listen to the vid and you'll see I let off twice so my ride wouldn't shut off like it did all night. My module kept heating up and shutting it off. Come bring that crate engine down here so I can show you what a REAL built engine performs like..Crate's are for sissieshttp://www.gbodycentral.com/forums/images/smilies/gay.gif....JK Keep it up!:beer:
By the way HKDUP,are you setting the fans up for pushers or pullers?

I'm just kicking back I,m out of this one for now BRO.:beer:

Thanks Al/Jack AND EVEN THE B TEXANSoke::texas::texas:

 

[1980SteelBeast]

I'm just kicking back I,m out of this one for now BRO.:beer:

Thanks Al/Jack AND EVEN THE B TEXANSoke::texas::texas:

I'm gonna remove myself from these threads. Keep up the good pics and work.
Here's the video to prove how my night went.This is just one night,out of the many we do. Don't judge one day of video,and think this is how my ride runs...
http://s1107.photobucket.com/albums/h382/Lentimidator/?action=view¤t=1.mp4

 

[fauxrs]

This is the setup I will be running on the new motor in 2 weeks, is a spal dual fan setup - I control it with a derale dual fan controller which is adjustable, the first fan comes on at 190, the second 10 degrees higher, either fan shuts off when the temp is 10 degrees lower than the 'on' temp.

The radiator is a brand new 4 row desert cooler, I bought the fans at the Long beach swap meet for $60, the controller cost about the same. I fabricated my own mounts.