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Discussion Starter #1
So my 67 el camino died when i was coming home from school last week. The idle wasn't right and if I didn't keep my foot in the gas the car would die. When I got it home I checked the spark plugs and they were fouled. I then checked the carb and the floats were sticking and the distributor cap looked pretty bad too. On Sunday I went to a swap meet that was at sac raceway and I ended up picking up an Edelbrock performer EPS intake manifold for 100 bucks. It was a decent deal because it was pretty much brand new(it was put on and took off cause it didn't do what the customer wanted it to, or that's what the guy I bought it off said)so I thought I would pick it up. I just finished swapping the intake which I started sunday. One of the bolts snapped so I had to get it out of the head, luckily I didn't have to helicoil it. I got the carb back monday which had an electric choke put on and I also am changing the distributor from a points to and electric one. All I have to do is wire up the choke and distributor and it should be good but I don't know where the wires go. I know the choke wire shouldn't be wired straight to the battery or the starter so would the alternator work? I can find where the distributor wires go because my chevelle has the same distributor but the choke I have no idea where the positive lead should go.
 

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I usually hook it to the yellow wire at the wiper motor. That way it is fused with the wipers and is only on when the ignition is on.
 

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There's a brown wire that comes out of the wiring harness. It has 12 volts on it when the key is on. It connects to one terminal of the oil pressure switch that screws in beside the distributor on the driver's side.

The other terminal of the oil pressure switch has a blue wire that connects to the choke positive terminal. That same terminal of the oil pressure switch also has a green wire that goes to pin 1 of the choke light in the dash.

When the key is on and the engine is not running the choke light will light because there’s 12 volts on pin 1 of the light (in the dash). Pin 2 of the choke light connects to the green wire on the oil pressure switch that also connects to the blue wire going to the choke heater.
Since the choke heater is a spiral-wound metal strap, it has a very low resistance. The resistance is so low that it “looks like” a short to ground. That effectively provides a ground to the choke light (choke ground to choke blue wire to green wire to pin 2 of the choke light).
When the engine is running and has oil pressure, the oil pressure switch closes (turns on) and the 12 volts on the brown wire connects to the blue and green wires. So the choke now gets 12 volts and starts to heat up. Because there is 12 volts on the green wire, there is 12 volts on both pins of the choke light and the light goes out.
The oil pressure switch is in the circuit to keep from heating the choke when the key is on, but the engine is not running.
They really should have named it a low oil pressure light.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well Jack, I understand what you're saying I think but my wiring harness is butchered. My wipers do work though so I think I am going to find that wire and use it for the choke. Thanks guys.
 

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I run all my electric chokes to the brown wire going to the alternator.

Doug
 

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Well Jack, I understand what you're saying I think but my wiring harness is butchered. My wipers do work though so I think I am going to find that wire and use it for the choke. Thanks guys.
You do not want to wire the choke to a wire that is always hot when the ignition is on. If you do the choke will be heating and drawing current any time the ignition is on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay so I just took the wire from the choke and ran it into the fuse block on the ignition part. I read that this will work fine, is it true? It seems to be working fine. Tomorrow I am going to time the engine because it is retarded from me converting the distributor to an electric one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yah I did replace the resistor wire. I am mainly concerned if I have the choke wired up properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I ran the wire straight from the choke into the fuse box where it says IGN. FUSED. Does this mean that it is already fused or should I just buy a fuse that I can put in the middle of the wire before it connects to the fuse box
 

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Why didn't you run the wire to the oil pressure idiot light switch like I suggested? That's the stock wiring.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I didn't go with what you suggested Jack because all the wiring on the car is butchered. The only thing that I know works on the dash is the blinkers, headlights, ignition, and wipers. Everything is is not working because either the wires have been cut or disconnected. I am slowly rewiring everything myself and I don't mind if it is not stock so long as it works fine with no hassles.
 
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