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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone! I hope you're all doing well!

To make this as brief and descriptive as possible, I'll write a backstory on my car.

I've got an '86 el camino with a 350 and TH350 transmission
In January this year, I removed the carburetor so I could rebuild it (I couldn't get the engine to stay running, and thought this was the problem)

After reubuilding the carb, I could get the engine to turn over, but not stay running, so I removed and replaced the fuel sending unit, and the fuel pump. This was around August when I did this.

Once I got a good battery again, I attempted to start my car, and it tries to turn over, but it seems like there is a lot of resistance somewhere, and I can't get it to run, after trying to turn it over for a few times, it killed the battery. When the car ran in the past, I could get it to start, and it would try and start quickly and sounded normal, now it sounds like its slowly dying when I try and start it (metal clanking, etc...)

My question(s):

Is there something that could be causing this resistance since it has sat so long?

Can I grease or oil something to help with turning over?

Do you have any other advice on what the problem may be?

Thank you all for the help, I hope I provided enough information.
 

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metal clanking when turning over? does it turn over at a regular speed when trying to start, or slower? did you replace the starter?
 

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First things first before you go down the road of removing and replacing any more parts...that gets expensive and maybe unnecessary. Let's figure out a few things:

Engine turning over: Are you sure the battery is fully charged? Are you sure about the metal clanging noises because that is serious? If you believe there maybe issues with internal parts not being sufficiently lubricated, you should think about maybe priming the motor with oil to ensure there is no metal-to-metal contact. Priming the motor involves removal of the distributor and turning the oil pump with a drill and priming tool via the distributor hole at the back of the engine.

BUT, before you do that, try this. Remove the spark plugs and squirt some motor oil (about a teaspoonful is enough) into each cylinder to lubricate them. Leave the plugs out and see what happens with cranking the motor. It should turn easily because there is no compression hampering the engine rotation. Leaving the plugs out also allows oil to drain just in case you were overly exuberant with squirting too much oil into the cylinders. Once you are confident the engine is rotating freely, reinstall the plugs.

What else did you do? When you say the engine turned over slowly does this mean that this is related to the battery loosing juice or the engine would rotate and stop abruptly. I ask this because did you turn or adjust the distributor as part of your attempts to get the engine started and running? If you have the engine advanced too much (turning the distributor counterclockwise), the motor will turn, hesitate, turn, hesitate. If this is the situation, retard the engine by turning the distributor clockwise. Do not turn it a lot...just a little at a time.

Fuel system: Why did you change the fuel sending unit and fuel pump? Since you've already swapped out these pieces, test to see if you are getting fuel from the tank to the carb. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and catch any fuel in a cup or can that may come out in response to this test.

If you have fuel coming out, reconnect the fuel line and try to restart the engine. The next test is to see if you have fuel coming out of the carb into the intake manifold. What kind of carb do you have installed? Have you rebuilt a carb before?

Cyberray asked about a starter, did you do anything with the starter? He probably asks in response to your mentioning metal clanging.

I know this is a lot of questions but before going forward, we need some answers to be helpful in getting your motor running again.
 

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barring a catastrophic internal failure, the only clanging I could think of would be at the belt area (front of engine) or the flywheel area (back of engine)
 

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Fuel pump push rod installed correctly?

Rick

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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I think you need to try and get back to ground zero where you only had one problem. So, now, in addition to pulling the carb for a rebuild (who rebuilt it?), you’ve pulled the fuel pump, dropped the tank, changed the sender, snd tried to crank an engine with an empty carb fed by empty furl lines from an empty pump, killing the battery in the process, right? IF that’s accurate, the only metal noise from your work would be the fuel pump pushrod. You should check it. Then, put in a fresh battery and dribble fuel into the carb while trying to crank it. You need to pull fuel into the lines and pump so the carb gets fuel. If you get back to the original problem you can start with diagnosis. If the carb is the problem, talk to Mountain Man or someone like him. Don’t buy a parts store reman. I think your ‘no start’ after carb rebuild might have been empty bowls, and pulling to pump made it worse. Good luck!
Patrick
 

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I would think it is a fuel problem . IS the fuel pushrod installed correct. Did you try to fill the float bowls with Gas? How old is the gas in the tank ?
 
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