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Discussion Starter #1
my 84 elky when it cold turns over and idles just and I can drive forever and it will run fine but as soon as I cut off the engine and leave it sit for awhile when I turn it over it struggles to hold an idle and usually requires me to sit there for 3 minutes to get it to idle right and even then it can sometimes start idling rough when I put it in gear but once the car finally starts moving it will clear up until the next shutoff I don't think its the carb I had it rebuilt a year ago and it runs just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
what do i need to do to fix this problem guys? Ill be waitin with my wrench ready:nanawrench:
 

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Could be the carb, maybe the choke trying to close when it shouldn't. But it COULD be a minor vapor lock, especially if you have a filter (especially a glass one) near the engine.

Or possibly in the fuel pump.
 

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Ck for a vacuum leak ,intake ,carb ? cup your hands over the carb when its running and see if it speeds up a little if it doess you have a vacuum leak some place !
 

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Discussion Starter #7
this is recent but my questions is if it is the carb problem than why would it eventually start idling right thanx again for the replies guy I'm looking into everyone's diagnosis
 

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I guess the first question is, how much of the original smog stuff and computer control do you still have on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
it doesnt use any of that no more my grandfather put a th350 and 383 stroker in it and rip the smog guts out and hooked the gauges thats it
 

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What carb are you running? The symptoms are like the Qjet bowl plugs leaking, except you would have the same issue on initial startup- hard to start. The choke not opening properly could also cause this symptom. It's possible the electric lead for the choke is off or a fuse is blown, causing the ch9oke not to open electrically. The carb getting hot could eventually open the choke enough to have it run better.
 

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it's a 650 carter is the fuse on the carb or is it under the instrument cluster?
The stock fuse is in the fuse box under the dash. You can check the choke line at the carb for 12V with the engine running. No voltage could indicate blown fuse or wiring problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
sorry for the wait but the voltage checks out so if it is a vapor lock what do you have to do to fix it
 

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It's hard to diagnose something like this from a distance, but your symptoms sure sound like faulty choke performance. Have you started it cold and watched your choke? It should be just barely closed at 70 degrees or so before you attempt to start the engine. Once the engine starts, the vacuum break should open the choke about 1/8" or so. From there, the electric choke will gradually open.

Bill
 

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carter carb ???must be old,, i would put a q jet on it from sean murphy induction,, hunnington beach ca, good luck :beer:
 
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Id get a phenolic spacer, 1/2 under the carb. AFBs are known to boil fuel after sitting a while. Also look at a hotter ignition
 

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Discussion Starter #19
no i haven't but i will on a another note here some other symptoms that might be related, the exhaust gives out a very strong smell of gas all the time and I've noticed a drop in my fuel mileage. I checked the timing at idle and adjusted it to 0 on the balancer.
 

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With a std carb and distributor, I think you need more initial timing- 8-10*, or maybe more. Those that have removed the ECM can chime in.

The strong gas smell, lower mileage, and all the other symptoms you have described all lead back to the choke. If the choke is working perfectly, then the next culprit might be the carb float. A bad float would flood the engine making it hard to start, and would continually poor fuel into the engine= gas smell in the exhaust and poor mileage.
 
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