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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have a 71’ with a 350 (not original) engine with HEI. Just reinstalled the body to the frame and when I turn the key to start the engine it starts but when you release the key from the start position it shuts off. Tried bypassing the ignition switch and hot wiring it but it still does it. If you keep the key turned to the start position it will stay running but obviously the starter doesn’t like that. Any ideas?
 

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welcome Mike
its broke..
is this a Carb, EFI or ??

is the original resistor wire to the HEI / coil bypassed,
how is the HEI powered now from the ignition switch or relay or ??
does it have full 12 volts all the time,, with the key in crank and run position??

any other wires or power going to the Coil+ or Battery connection on the HEI / cap,,
like the Resistor bypass power from the starter, choke, ??

do you have a Alarm or kill switch or
ignition interrupt or ignition box, electric fuel pump power ??

try disconnecting the Tach wire from the HEI, and see if it runs..

it should still run when Hot-wired 12v straight to the Batt on the HEI..
the ignition switch may have 1 or 2 red hot wires,, are they both hot ??
maybe a ignition switch, or a ground or a HEI problem,
are all the body to motor / battery / frame grounds re-installed ??

try a remote starter switch,, just leave the ign switch off as a test..
bypassing the crank from the ignition switch, with the hot-wire to the HEI..

this is all assuming its a power / ground problem.. if its a power problem ??
could be a big vacuum leak [brake booster hose??] or choke/no-choke problem,,
accelerator pump working ??
what if you open the throttle, and try to keep it running ??

EFI can be a whole other set of problems..
 

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Your original post concerns me? What are you calling "hot wire"? Remove the pink wire from the "BATT" terminal. Should have a wire plugged into the "BATT" terminal on the HEI cap to the battery positive. Then it should stay running after start. If not I'm going to be really confused??? The only other thing that i can think of is bad module, or you are not making a good connection to the distributor???
 

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I think I've figured it out, you are working with a 71 points car, and intalling a post 74 HEI. Meaning, you have got to reconfigure the car wiring to work with the HEI system. On a points car there is a resistor between the key switch, to drop the voltage to 8 volts. Points will burn up with a constant 12 volt feed, but need 12 volts to get the cold engine started. Hence the feed from the starter (see the drawing). HEI needs 12 volts and will shut down at 9 volts or less, see a problem? The resistor is on your firewall should be a white ceramic block. Just jumper from one side to the other,( the terminals on the resistor), and this should fix your problem
130840
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got it figured out. When I put the body back on I had to reconnect the fuse block. When I connected the engine side to the interior side the pink wire wasn’t making contact do the fact that the tab was slightly bent on the engine side. It starts right up and runs fine now. Thank you to everyone for your advice.
 

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wtg Mike

it should still run " HotWired"
did you bypass the Resistor WIRE to power the HEI, so it gets full 12v all the time ??

there is no ceramic block resistor on a Chevy,,
the resistance is built in-to the wire,, from the bulk head connector to the coil+..
 
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