El Camino Central Forum banner

1 - 20 of 53 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
HOWS EVERYBODY?????? well guys, i need your knowledge once again...if you guys recall, i was talking about building an engine a couple months ago. well im almost done with it. its about high time for the break-in process and ive read how crazy important it is to make sure that flat tappet cam is treated like royalty during the process. ZINC IT UP!!! so of all the research ive done, i got that using shell rotella or chevron delo diesel oils are best and cheapest at 12.89 WALMART for breaakins due to have a bit more zinc that now-a-days oils. i also read that adding oil additives will help things along. my questions are:

1) do i have to sit in the car, and hold my foot on the peddle at 2k rpms for the whole 20mins or can i set a brick on it or something lighter?

2) i read up and down reviews about different additives, so i bought a bottle of stp oil treatment, which states it contains zinc. what do you guys think about STP OIL TREATMENT?

3)are there any other important factors or NEED TO KNOWS about the break-in process?

heres a couple of photos from my build. i have more but im saving them for my youtube video im going to make.

Before i started

By jahblah90 at 2012-09-12

LOVE THE CAMERA ANGLE

By jahblah90 at 2012-09-12

HOLY LOOSE TIMING CHAIN BATMAN!!!!!!!!!

By jahblah90 at 2012-09-12

Ready to go on the stand

By jahblah90 at 2012-09-12
 

·
Deputy Director, Region 1
Joined
·
2,566 Posts
I primed my new crate engine with a tool that mounts through the distributor hole and turns with a drill. Also used Lucas Break-in oil. And yeah held the pedal for about 30 minutes at 2000 rpms. Bring a magazine if you think you'll get bored.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,561 Posts
Like ya said, zinc is IMPORTANT!! I would still buy the additive at AZ, NAPA,, what does GM call it,, ZZP?? I would not use the STP on a break in, oil & additive only,, I also am finshing up a 355 and I will get AMSOIL break in oil, Lucas sells it, Brad Pitt oil or Brad someone`s oil,, You just spent a boat load of $$$on your motor,, spend a few extra $$ and break it in right,, I will post pics of my 2500 mile cam wipe out on this 355 I am re-doing,, it even wiped the fuel pump lobe out!! I wont let it happen again!!. I am not sure why my cam went out,, I cant recall how and what oil I used 7 years ago,, well live and learn,,
As far as the RPM`s,, you can adjust the throttle to get the 1500 to 1800+, I run mine at 1500 to 1800, change the RPM level, watch the timing and temp!! Outside you can mist a water hose on the front of the radiator to help keep cool, and big a$$ fan in front as well,, on mine I disconnect the tranny coverter, why create extra heat?? And it wont engage by mistake,,,, heat soak the motor a few times, get it warm, shut off after break in,, change oil/filter, set all adjustments and go!! Matty man
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
THANKS FOR THE SWIFT RESPONSE!!!!!!!!!! so the stp isnt that good? i read that it was a bit thick and gooey so i was thinking id only add half a bottle of it for the break in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,561 Posts
My only issue is just that, thick and gooey,, IMO, just me,, I want the oil going and going quick,, just not a big fan of it,,, it`s up to you but on my break in it is proper break in oil,, I cant wait,, Matty man
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Like ya said, zinc is IMPORTANT!! I would still buy the additive at AZ, NAPA,, what does GM call it,, ZZP?? I would not use the STP on a break in, oil & additive only,, I also am finshing up a 355 and I will get AMSOIL break in oil, Lucas sells it, Brad Pitt oil or Brad someone`s oil,, You just spent a boat load of $$$on your motor,, spend a few extra $$ and break it in right,, I will post pics of my 2500 mile cam wipe out on this 355 I am re-doing,, it even wiped the fuel pump lobe out!! I wont let it happen again!!. I am not sure why my cam went out,, I cant recall how and what oil I used 7 years ago,, well live and learn,,
As far as the RPM`s,, you can adjust the throttle to get the 1500 to 1800+, I run mine at 1500 to 1800, change the RPM level, watch the timing and temp!! Outside you can mist a water hose on the front of the radiator to help keep cool, and big a$$ fan in front as well,, on mine I disconnect the tranny coverter, why create extra heat?? And it wont engage by mistake,,,, heat soak the motor a few times, get it warm, shut off after break in,, change oil/filter, set all adjustments and go!! Matty man
well sir, you've made more sense than i can argue with. i will get lucas break-in oil like you guys. toss the STP. YOU WIPED OUT A CAM AT 2.5K?????? THATS INSANE!!!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
My only issue is just that, thick and gooey,, IMO, just me,, I want the oil going and going quick,, just not a big fan of it,,, it`s up to you but on my break in it is proper break in oil,, I cant wait,, Matty man
sorry, i type slow lol i ment that "half the bottle of STP" question for Bobby78. you killed all my argument (questioning rather) with that 2.5k wipeout lmao but i did spend toooo much to be a cheap @$$ on a few dollars
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,409 Posts
Valvoline racing oil in the black bottle is also good, you can have your local NAPA store order it. Definitely set the valves to specs, DO NOT leave them loose. Prime the pump with a tool that directs the oil to the cam, I made one out of an old distributor. Set the RPM with the idle screw and get the timing real close. A big fan is a plus, watch the gauges.:texas:
 
1

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Using a brick will make the rpms fluctuate until you nail the 2k mark. Its better to grab a soda and magazine and enjoy your time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,122 Posts
The idle speed screw on the carb can usually be turned in to get up around 2000+ RPM. I do it from outside of the car, with an oil pressure gauge plumbed in, to watch during break-in.. What ever you do, DON'T let it idle until the cam is broken in.....
You can cut the filter open after changing oil & filter, to check for metal particles etc.in the element media.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,510 Posts
Ok, you've got plenty of great advice here as far as breaking in the cam goes, but then what???

After the cam is broken in, you have to take it easy for awhile until you get the rings seated. This is where the traditional 500 mile break-in period comes from. You don't need 500 miles anymore, due to new materials for the rings, but I would still give it 2-300 miles break-in before getting on it hard.
Run the first 50-75 miles 35 mph or under. Using lower gears in the trans (1st, 2nd, etc), gently run it up to about 30 mph, then let the motor pull the speed back down. You are putting pressure on the rings as you speed up, and as you slow down. Next stage for 50-75 miles is to run it up to about 45, same way as before. Let the motor provide braking. Then a 3rd stage up to 55-60.
See the resemblance between this activity and the stages you go thru when torquing the heads?

Last hotrod motor I built, I REALLY wanted to run it hard. So I started at 2PM on Friday afternoon, and using the stages as described above, staying in town, by 10PM Sunday night, I had put 500 miles on the car, appeared in Friday and Saturday nights cruising the main, and it was broke in and ready to be shown off when I went to work on Monday morning. Even had the oil changed too. Never left town the whole break-in period.

I BEAT ON that car REAL HARD for 8 years (about 100K miles), and it was still kickin butt when I sold it!!

Take your time and break it in carefully and it'll last ya a looong time!

:driving: :nanawrench: :beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
those rotella and diesel oils dont have the amounts of zddp that you need anymore, just buy straight 30w of your brand preference and pour in a bottle of
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10063-Break-In-Additive/dp/B001DKN8ZU[/ame]

just helped hkdup87 break in his new crate motor with this combo and had no issues, i believe he used valvoline 30w if i remember correctly.

for mine i used brad penn 30w break in oil and a bottle of comps cam break in additive, but this route is more expensive..

if you installed the cam make sure you put plenty of lube on the cam lobes and try not to spin the motor over much because your wiping off all the lube as you do..

also make sure you prime the motor with tool people mentioned above and change filter and oil after break in with what you plan to run and i recommend adding another bottle of the lucus additive as well
 

·
ZERO MPG
Joined
·
15,367 Posts
I used Quaker State 30 and Lucas break in.make sure after your done drain the oil and check the filter for metal. We found two tiny slivers. Rich kept me in line on everything. I would check all you bolts again to make sure your all tightened up. I thought after checking three or four times I had done everything WRONG Rich found a few I had missed and I took my time.




 

·
Venerated Member RIP
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
Valvoline racing oil in the black bottle is also good, you can have your local NAPA store order it. Definitely set the valves to specs, DO NOT leave them loose. Prime the pump with a tool that directs the oil to the cam, I made one out of an old distributor. Set the RPM with the idle screw and get the timing real close. A big fan is a plus, watch the gauges.:texas:
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s466/hotrodelco/Thin Lizzy/Texas Tune-up/67013.jpg
Nailed it Ralph.
Wish I had that fan when I did my cam.:beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,142 Posts
Valvoline racing oil in the black bottle is also good, you can have your local NAPA store order it. Definitely set the valves to specs, DO NOT leave them loose. Prime the pump with a tool that directs the oil to the cam, I made one out of an old distributor. Set the RPM with the idle screw and get the timing real close. A big fan is a plus, watch the gauges.:texas:
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s466/hotrodelco/Thin Lizzy/Texas Tune-up/67013.jpg

X2 on just about everything. I use Lucas zinc additive.

And I also have a prime "tool" I made from an old distributer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,847 Posts
I'll address getting the engine completely full of coolant before starting since that hasn't been mentioned. Take the heater hose loose from the intake. Use a small funnel and pour about a half gallon of coolant into the hose. This will fill the heater core and push the air out. Leave the hose off and finish filling into the radiator until you get coolant out of the port on the intake. Put the hose back on and finish filling. Now hopefully you don't have air pockets in the block and it won't start spitting coolant out and overheating during the break in.
As far as holding the throttle, before starting it open the throttle and push the choke completely closed and release the throttle while holding the choke closed. Most fast idle adjustments are set to at least 1500 or more. When it starts make sure it is running at least that fast. If not you can tweak the fast idle adjustment or like said above maybe the idle screw will let you adjust it that high.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,535 Posts
A good additive for regular oil is a bottle of ZDDP. It's available on ebay. Buy enough for 3 oil changes. Add a bottle or two to regular oil for the breakin. I used oil in a 4 or 5 gallon jug and added the ZDDP to it. Pour the ZDDP into the oil before you pour it in the engine. Shake it up as long as you can stand it.

I agree with everything said by the others with one exception. I agree with how to perform the initial breakin by adjusting the idle screw on the carb to 2000 RPM. After about 5 minutes rev it to 2500 RPM for a minute or so and then back to 2000 RPM. Repeat this every 5 minutes. Then change the oil and filter and let it cool off.

When you add the new oil and filter add another bottle of ZDDP. Do this for the 3rd change, too. You should be "good to go".

After the initial breakin, if you used new-age parts (rings, bearings, etc.) and had the cylinders honed with today's pattern, you can "run it like you stole it" to finish the breakin. I'm sure I'll get a lot of grief from this, but it works.

BTW, AZ and others will loan you an oil pump priming tool. Use it to get the oil circulated before the first engine start before the initial breakin.

Jack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
351 Posts
All the above with just using a good break in oil. Also have a timing lite ready, mark your ballancer at 28- 32* at the high idle set timing so you know it's not running to lean which will make engine overheat. After break in go back and set timing like you normally would.

Don
 

·
Registered
1966 El Camino
Joined
·
2,044 Posts
Lots of very good information here, my addition is,

DONT DO THIS SOLO.

Get a friend to sit in the drivers seat and hold the rpms you want to be up and around looking for leaks.
I've done enough of these to know that there is one thing you want to do.

HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEARBY

I cant stress this enough - I've seen one car burn to the gound and another get mildly damaged due to gas leaks. If you are sitting in the drivers seat you cant act very fast - you have to shut the car down - get out - grab the extinguisher - well you can visualise the problem.
I've also seen plastic oil pressure lines melt because of poor routing - that makes a huge mess and you want to act ASAFP when stuff like that happens.
Also while your buddy is sitting in the seat you can tweak the timing a little bit if need be.
And of course you can have the big fan and hose for the radiator as suggested earlier to keep it cool.
 
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
Top