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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen a bunch of members here that have never torn down a motor and rebuild it back to life,, so I am starting a 350 tear down and then I will put her back together, twice, cause thats how we roll in Ohio!! :poke:Just for u DDD!!! This motor is the same as a 283 to the 400 sb chevy,, the motor; a 1996 350, 5.7 out of a 96 Surburan 2 wd 1500,, the engine has 255,000 and the owner has had Amsoil synthetic oils through out the drive line and we will see the benifit of using synthetic oils,, this motor was the easiest motor I ever torn down,, the cylinder walls have no taper that I can feel, I will dial bore gauge this puppy! The crank looks ok but may need reground,, I will post pics of using mics tom check things out,, I did pop the pistons out w/o any pics,, DOH! I will pic the crank removal,, so ride along and if someone can tell me how to do videos from my camera I will try that as well!! Just down load tp photo bucket?? Sp here we go,,, the motor;



the lifter valley,, I was surprised about the sludge build up but it was like a pudding,,



and the exhaust ports,, do you know is there enough iron to do porting on these late model heads??
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The differences of the engines, early vs late models I will try to cover, like this motor has roller cam and has the spider arm to hold the lifters in, 1 peice rear main vs the two peice,, more pics this weekend,, Matty man
 

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I had intended to do the same thing with my engine build-up - in retrospect I failed horribly to document the build adequately, I didnt take near enough photos and thus many steps arent included. Still I put it together for the car's website anyway - see it here
 

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Are you going to start it on the ground, like real men do???:poke:
Put your vids in PhotoBucket then you can copy link.
Keep us posted, I'm watching!!!:You_Rock:
Donny
 

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This is awesome. :nanawrench: Rookie guys like me need this. Working on my first real build. Took my first set of heads off the other day. Was lost at first but it was simple once I saw what had to be removed. Keep the pictures and details coming. :You_Rock:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
More pics tomorrow on Sunday,, thanks DDD for the info,, my other 355 I will start on the floor just 4 u !! My goal is too help those who may of never torn one down and want to!! Sunday- head removal and piston pop out and hopefully get the crank out & micometer on her and see if I can have it polished or reground,,, more info comin!! Matty man
 

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WOW! The last time I rebuilt an engine was from my 67' SS Camaro! That was about 40 or so years ago! Man, am I getting "wiser" (right Keyser?).

Doug
 

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WOW! The last time I rebuilt an engine was from my 67' SS Camaro! That was about 40 or so years ago! Man, am I getting "wiser" (right Keyser?).

Doug

well, you're getting older, so you must be!

:beer:
 

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Are you going to start it on the ground, like real men do???:poke:
Put your vids in PhotoBucket then you can copy link.
Keep us posted, I'm watching!!!:You_Rock:
Donny

it's also great for checking the reflexes of yourself and all your friends standing around, once the flywheel teeth catch on the floor.

:poke:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I state the tear down of the 355,, well it aint a 355 yet,, which is a 350 bored .030 over,, But it took a good 35 minutes to down load to photobucket,, is this normal?? Still a noob on that,, so here is the first video maybe???

 

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Discussion Starter #12
A few tips for ya all,, get ya a peice of wood drill some holes (7/8) for lifters and some push rod holes (3/8 ) mark each cylinder front & back ect,,,



When I took the flex plate off, in order to loosen the bolts put a wooden handle, something that will not mar the rod journals,,



I use a 3 to 4 inch micrometer to measure the pistons,, check two to three spots on each piston,, mine are I am afraid to worn,, 3.996 to 3.998,, I will double check in morning with the machine shop when I drop off the block & crank,,





And last,,, have a dedicated spot for all your parts,, like the cam thrust plate, it goes in my top tool box drawer,, write things down, like stud locations, brackets ect,, pics,, pics and more pics,,



Thats all for now,, head tear down next,, hopefully the valve guides are good,,, we`ll see,, Thanks Matty man
 

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You vid was great, it's easier to follow along with than just pics. Although, (rod bold condoms!!!:poke:)
Are they ribbed? Do they need honed!!!:poke:
Donny
 

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Discussion Starter #14
A few tips on the tear down,,,

Here is another video,, or two,, the block is at the machine shop,, .001 wear where the piston rides and .003 to .005 where the rings go,, NICE!!




 

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Word to the wise...
Before removing the Main Bearing Caps (Same for Rod Caps), Number Them & Mark with an arrow pointing to the front of the block! Mix them up or get them reversed and it's Line-Hone time for sure...

At 259K miles, I would turn the crank 10 under and have the big end of the rods sized before going too far...That bearing you showed in the last video was not into the copper, but had an uneaven load pattern...Common with a #1 on a 350 due to harmonics (Crank Twist)...But I would put a dial indicator on that crank to make sure it's straight...

Great job...We all need to do more of this....:nanawrench:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks 69/84!! In another video I went over the marking of the mains and rods but it had an error or something,, and I found out that the later model bearings are aluminum without tin/copper,, thats why I thought I had a great bearing,, no signs of the tin showing through,, last night I was on you tube and watched a tear down from a show(that I never seen) motorz?? well they torn a 350 down and also never said to mark any caps,, and when he pullled the rods never used anything to cover the rod bolts,, hopefully these will help the people who never torn one down and wants to give it a go,, Thanks Matty man
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just a quick note; the block is cleaned and i will post a quick video of deburring and polishing the oil returns before I send it back for honing and a final cleaning,, not sure why it takes me 30+ minutes to upload a video on photobucket,, I will be out of range for about a week,, more to come next week,, Matty man
 

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last one I did, I marked the caps with a center punch (marked with dots) didn't have to mark with an arrow, cause dots were all on same side of the pieces. when using dots, the number/pattern of the dots is what marks them (3 in a line, 4 in a square, 3 in a triangle, 2 horizontal, 2 verticle, etc)
 

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Word to the wise...
Before removing the Main Bearing Caps (Same for Rod Caps), Number Them & Mark with an arrow pointing to the front of the block! Mix them up or get them reversed and it's Line-Hone time for sure...

At 259K miles, I would turn the crank 10 under and have the big end of the rods sized before going too far...That bearing you showed in the last video was not into the copper, but had an uneaven load pattern...Common with a #1 on a 350 due to harmonics (Crank Twist)...But I would put a dial indicator on that crank to make sure it's straight...

Great job...We all need to do more of this....:nanawrench:
Good Job here Matty. You're right for 259K and that main bearing looks like a 40K wear bearing. You're not going to mind others poking their nose in here and adding some tips and opinions along the way???

Yes, it's huge to mark your motor. I even mark the rods even though it's not necessary because I always, always, always get rods reconditioned. I've had other stamp kits, but not long ago, I purchased this kit on sale for I think it was $6.99. Well spent $7.
http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-1-8-eighth-inch-steel-letter-number-stamping-set-800.html
The center punch with dots does work too, but I like #'s.

Just for the sake of insurance on my builds, I get the rods hot tanked, magnafluxed aka magged which is checking for cracks or fractures, shot peened which strengthens them along with making them pretty. Checked for twist and big end resized. Remember, I mentioned it doesn't matter on marking rods, ONLY IF you're getting them resized which I do, but I still want them marked so if the machine shop tells me I have one bent, twisted or way out of round, then I know which one it is, and can go back and pay close attention to the # on the crank journal and cylinder in the block for other damage caused by the rod, or what could have caused the problem on that particular rod, so yes, it's important IMO. Remember guys, #1 catastrophic failure to do with a motor failing has to do with rods so don't skimp here. It's usually $80-$100 for rod recon, but well worth it.

And as far as NOT marking your mains and if you get them mixed up, you may as well junk the block IMO. 69/84 mentions a line hone. An align hone cleans up your main saddles and main caps and makes sure any burrs or imperfections are cleared out of the way or removes and rust if the block sat for some time. If your main caps get mixed up you actually need an align bore, where your main caps are cut down, made smaller, torqued to spec on the block and then re-bored to make certain they're perfect. Align boring is expensive and you can usually find another core for cheaper. So 69/84 makes a great point here. And don't think for a minute, you can just set them in order and know they are good. They can get knocked over, fall off the workbench, kicked across the garage floor etc. Just mark them. It's well worth it.

Carry on MattyMan !!! :nanawrench:
 

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Xclnt point about marking caps. Matty mentioned some TV show where they tore down a motor, those shows always rile me up - invariably it goes something like this...

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Hi today we are going to show you how to rebuild this small block chevy in our 1970 camaro..

First we have to remove the engine from the car and disassemble it....

[commercial break]

Now that the motor is out of the car and on the stand we can begin disassembly, the first thing you want to make sure is that you have a good clean work area with ample space to lay out parts. Billy Jim Joe Bob has a good tiip for you.

Thanks bubba, yeah you should use ziplock baggies and those cheap tupperware containers you can buy at the store to hold bolts and misc small parts, this way you always can find the fasteners that you need when its time to reassemble. - Lets get started on tearing dowen the motor...

[commercial break]

Now that the motor is completely disassembled and taken to the machine shop....

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anyway you get the drift, those shows, if they contain any information at all its a minor miracle, I think its why so many of them dont bother anymore and just buy a crate motor.
 
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