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Discussion Starter #1
So the wiring in my 67 was totally butchered when I got the car and I have been trying to get my fuel gauge to work for the past couple of days. I did read that there are only supposed to be two wires that go to the fuel gauge which are the sending unit wire and a wire that leads to the ignition so when you turn the car over the gauge gets power. I wired it in the other day and it didn't want to do anything so at first I thought that the wires might be in the wrong spots so I swapped them around and still nothing. Today I thought that maybe the terminals were just too rusty for the wires and the gauge to have good contact. I sanded the terminals down a bit and wired the gauge back up. When I turned the car over the power sent from turning it over shot the fuel gauge up past full. This made me think that I could have wired it wrong so I swapped the wires again and the fuel gauge dropped down to empty. I was thinking that maybe it is getting a bad ground but I don't exactly know for sure or even how to fix the ground on the gauge. Any help right now would be very appreciated. I would love to know how much gas I have so I can stop guessing on how much is left.
 

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The sending unit in the tank makes the ground connection. There is a ground wire coming from the tank over to the body. Take it loose from the body and clean the connection. When the ground is NOT connected the gauge should go past full.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I went under the car and disconnected the ground wire leading to the sending unit. I took some sand paper and sanded the body down a bit even though I sanded it pretty good when I replaced the sending unit last month. The wire is brand new so I doubt that its the problem. I turned the ignition over and it still did the same thing. When I turn the car over the gauge only moves up when I turn the ignition over completely to engage the starter and not when its on regularly or in accessory. I also noticed that after a little while of the car running the gauge drops back down to zero. Anyone got ideas?
 

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I have a wiring diagram for my 69, which should be same as the 67. It shows 2 wires coming off the gauge. One is TAN, which goes to the sender at the tank and the other is purple that gets it's power from the fuse panel. The fuse powers up when you turn the ignition on. First make sure the wires are hooked to the back of gauge correctly. If gauge goes "full tilt" to the right when key is turned on, then the gauge is working and the problem is most likely at the tank or with the "tan" wire going to the sender.If the gauge reads empty when you turn the key on, then the fuse have gone bad. I doubt if gauge is bad since you have seen it at the dead empty mark and at the "full scale" position. Sounds like we can rull out sender and the little ground wire since you said you replaced sender (which came with new ground wire).
Many of us with these "older" Elko's have had "gauge problems" and the majority of the time, it was resolved by cleaning up the ground connection at tank or replacing the sender unit. There have been members who have found that the "tan" wire had an "internal" break in the wire due to age.
Generally anytime the gauge looses the "signal" from the tank end, the gauge will goe full+ scale. One last thing --- check the fuse !!!!!

PS
I am going thru the same problem with my 69. Gauge was reading "full tilt" when I turned key on. Dropt tank, cleaned it out, replaced sending unit and am going to reinstall tank in the next few days.
Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I don't know if it could be the fuse because like I said the wiring was completely butchered when I got the car. I am just trying to get the gauge to work correctly for now and have wire going straight from the sending unit to the gauge and have a wire thats spliced into another wire in the ignition coming to it. This might sound like a problem to some of you so if anyone knows a better way to wire it than that for now than please tell me.
 

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Your setting yourself up for a possible meltdown. You should NEVER run direct power to electronics. Anything that demands power to operate should pass thru a fuse. Things can "short out" on occassion and without a fuse the results can be devistating. If your Elkies wiring was butchered as bad as you say by the PO, then you might be better off purchasing a quality replacement loom. They are fairly simple to install, especially in older model cars that are not computer controlled. Is the gas gauge the only problem or are you having multiple electrical problems? I looked under my dash today, and it looks like the gas gauge actually has 4 wires coming off of it. It also looks like the 4 wires are "plugged" into the gauge. Just wondering if there is a problem with the "plug" connector (just a thought).
The PO of my 69 had "butchered" my cars wiring, so I have spent hours on end (still not done) on getting just the basics working.
Have a stereo system I want to setup but holding off till I get the wiring cleaned up.
I started with making sure the fuse block was properly powered simply by using a test light. The fuses on the "left" side of the panel should be "hot" all the time, while the fuses down the "right" side should only be "hot" when the key is in the "run" position. The fuse for the fuel gauge is at the bottom of the panel and is the "shortest" of all the fuses.
There is a "posting" on this forum that has very simple wiring diagrams broke down by car "year". Go to the "electrical" section of the forum and do a search for "wiring diagram". Let me (us) know if you find it, otherwise I will try to see if I can post it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will disconnect the wires tomorrow if something bad can happen then. My gauge has only two prongs coming out of it and I think thats how it should be. I have tried looking into an interior wiring kit for my 67 but all I can seem to find are ones that have everything included with a new fuse box and they cost around 500 bucks. None of the gauges work in my car at all. I am going to try and sort out my engine wiring this weekend because my alternator isn't keeping my car alive like it should and its been running straight off of the battery and I plan on swapping the points distributor to an electrical one. I find most of how to wire things in my car on this forum actually and it helps a lot. I think the original wire that plugs into the gauge got clipped somewhere down the line when the the previous owner had it. If you could help point me in the right direction of what to wiring kit I need to buy that would be great. I already replaced the tail light wiring harness so thats good. I have been thinking about replacing the engine wiring harness and then all I think I would need would be one for the instrument panel and gauge cluster. Thanks a lot. I also posted an image of what the gauge looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No I never really resolved my problem I have just learned to live without my fuel gauge. I have replaced every wiring harness in my car except for the dash harness. That one is next on my bucket list and then I think I will have my fuel gauge working again and everything else flawlessly.
 
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