I have been working on this on and off for the last couple of days because I plan to rebuild my Edelbrock carb ‘cause the idle circuit does not work properly and is most likely due to dirt. Also it has been sitting a while and smells awful!
I had an idea of how it should go, and you con firmed it. Yes, I plan to reposition the gauge with a 45 degree adapter, (man those things are expensive!) and add a support bracket from the alternator to the FPR.
Before you ask, the fuel line was made with double inverted flares, and only came in 12" or 20" - I needed 14" so I put in some unnecessary bends to take up the slack.
one thang tho,, I prefer to have the filter on its side if I can,
so most of the dirt settles and stays in the filter,
other wise the loose dirt/sand/rust will fall back down the inlet piping to the pump..
I learned/noticed this when I got a crap load of fine sand in a tank of gas..
I had to flush the pump to a bucket every time I changed the filter
to finely get rid of all the sand..
this was back in the old days before all the gas pumps had a filter on the hose,
not sure what micron size the filter is,
but it seems I do change a lot less fuel filters now days..
I agree JJ - I was trying to utilize pre-flared steel lines without creating a "plumbers nightmare", and a vertical filter was the easiest routing with fewer bends. It is simple to change, so I am not too concerned - if it becomes a problem, then I will get creative with a correction.
maybe the carb is leaned out for before with the higher pressure, higher bowl level..
I would start from scratch, try the idle mixture tune first,,
but the float levels should be checked, but it requires taking the top off..
what do the plugs look like,
the richer mixture will be easyer for the old spark plugs to light-off,,
leaner is harder to light-off..
running too much fuel pressure before, someone may have changed the float settings,
lowered them to compensate for the higher pressure..