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Discussion Starter #1
Hey y'all.
I have a 1985 Elky. Originally a v6, but previous owner swapped for a .060 bored 350 v8. He said he also replaced the gas tank with another 22gal tank.

Engine has forge flattop pistons, solid lifters, roller rockers, 305 double hump headers.

Currently has a sticky Holley 80457-2 carb that I'll swap with an Edelbrock 1405 and Edelbrock performer intake. Current carb runs rich and seems to be stuck open.

Reason I'm changing fuel pumps is because of how rich it runs and it seems I'm getting gas in my oil. Starts cold fine, but not hot. So I'm also adding a heat shield between carb and intake manifold.

My question is, what fuel pump do I need? Do I get the oem one or what? And does it seem like I'm on the right track with what I'm doing? This is all new to me.

Car is a weekend warrior for street use. No racing, but I do like to push it a bit.

Thanks in advance!
 

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I had a similar situation. My problem was the fuel pump was putting too much pressure to the carburetor. It was putting out 9 lbs of pressure. The carb spec's was to be less than 7 lbs. I added a fuel regulator to lower the pressure.
 

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welcome MB

a Edelbrock will be worse, IF its a fuel pressure problem..
Holley can handle 6-7 PSI,, Edelbroke ~ 4.5 psi..
as said a 8-9-10 psi pump is not really the problem, it just needs a
pressure regulator to go with it.. [ when you have to buy something anyway ]..
the Edelbroke wont run even with stock Chevy pump pressure anyway..

the 600 Carb will be easyer to tune than anything bigger,
don't make that mistake, it really makes tuning harder..

check the Fuel Pressure and Float Level on the Carb..
no amount of buying/adjusting will fix anything until those are right..
could be trash in the carb needle and seat, if your not running a good filter..

what pump do you have ?? what Intake ??
got part numbers for the motor and pump and / or Pics ??
we like Pics, and they help with all the questions we have to help..

a big lumpy solid lifter cam is not a great place to start learning to tune,,
and they can be the problem with the rich smell,
and the new Gas now days, it stinks anyway..
those cams are very in-efficient at idle..
any idea on what the Compression Ratio is ??

where is the timing ??
more initial or idle timing is usually better with your set-up,
but the Total timing and is more important,
vacuum advance distributor helps on the street..

is the Choke working ??
or not working right, could be part of the hot start problem..

and check the Intake Manifold Bolt Torque,,
if it has not been re-torqued since a few heat cycles,
it can loosen up when hot..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
welcome MB

a Edelbrock will be worse, IF its a fuel pressure problem..
Holley can handle 6-7 PSI,, Edelbroke ~ 4.5 psi..
as said a 8-9-10 psi pump is not really the problem, it just needs a
pressure regulator to go with it.. [ when you have to buy something anyway ]..
the Edelbroke wont run even with stock Chevy pump pressure anyway..

the 600 Carb will be easyer to tune than anything bigger,
don't make that mistake, it really makes tuning harder..

check the Fuel Pressure and Float Level on the Carb..
no amount of buying/adjusting will fix anything until those are right..
could be trash in the carb needle and seat, if your not running a good filter..

what pump do you have ?? what Intake ??
got part numbers for the motor and pump and / or Pics ??
we like Pics, and they help with all the questions we have to help..

a big lumpy solid lifter cam is not a great place to start learning to tune,,
and they can be the problem with the rich smell,
and the new Gas now days, it stinks anyway..
those cams are very in-efficient at idle..
any idea on what the Compression Ratio is ??

where is the timing ??
more initial or idle timing is usually better with your set-up,
but the Total timing and is more important,
vacuum advance distributor helps on the street..

is the Choke working ??
or not working right, could be part of the hot start problem..

and check the Intake Manifold Bolt Torque,,
if it has not been re-torqued since a few heat cycles,
it can loosen up when hot..
Figured I'd do the carb/intake swap since previous owner gave them to me with the car. So it wouldn't cost me parts anyways.

All the modifications to engine listed above, the previous owner did. No clue on compression ratios.

I'll check the fuel pressure, timing, and get pictures (hopefully) Friday.
 

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There is a Carter Fuel Pump that runs at I believe 5-9 psi. Perfect for a Holley. 65.00. Ran this on a Stroker VW with Dual 44MM Webers which each flow right at 292cfm each ( Yah 600cfm in an air cooled 4 banger) . Just put a 30.00 Holley regulator and adjust it to taste.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Managed to get a faulty pressure gauge, so checking that will have to wait a bit. Not sure how to check timing, tbh.

Engine block is 3070010
Holley Carb 80457-2
Unsure on part number for mechanical fuel pump.

Butterfly on carb is stuck in about the position pictured. It has about 1/2 inch wiggle to it, but that's it.
130939
130940
130941
 

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Checking the timing is done with a Timing Light, 2nd most important tool in your box..
the light will strobe when a cylinder fires,
and you line up the Timing Marks on the crank shaft with the pointer..
that is IF TDC is marked right.. lots of reading on that site.. link>
Timing tabs and damper TDC lines SBC
timing light don't have to be expensive, and don't have to be Digital, RPM is usefull tho..
but a Dial-Back Timing Light is a lot more usefull for testing and tuning..


Engine block is 3070010
That's a good 4.0" bore block,, usually a 350ci with a 3.48" Crank..
could be a 327 w/3.25" or a 302 w/3.0" ,, or 383 with a longer stroke 400 crank..

Holley Carb 80457-2
That's a 2nd build out of 7, of the 80457, so its older, still better than a Edy.. IMO
heres the stock specs link>
https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_carb_numerical_listing.pdf

mechanical fuel pump. W0919
probly a basic made in chiner..
found several numbers close, same style, they were all 6-9~ish psi,, maybe??
no-name brand, just a cheap chrome replacement ..

if you mean the top Choke Butterfly ??
its usually locked by the closed throttle,
open the throttle a little, and see if it moves ??

Where does this hose go to ??
GO WHERE.jpg

and need to move the fuel hose out away from the motor, and the heat,
heat is bad on this new gas we have now days,, it will boil at 175*f ..
cause's hot start problems, flooding,
and melt-ing of plastic fuel filters,,
there great for testing, then swap to a 10-20 micron metal filter..

[ do not get a glass filter ]

back later
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Checking the timing is done with a Timing Light, 2nd most important tool in your box..
the light will strobe when a cylinder fires,
and you line up the Timing Marks on the crank shaft with the pointer..
that is IF TDC is marked right.. lots of reading on that site.. link>
Timing tabs and damper TDC lines SBC
timing light don't have to be expensive, and don't have to be Digital, RPM is usefull tho..
but a Dial-Back Timing Light is a lot more usefull for testing and tuning..


Engine block is 3070010
That's a good 4.0" bore block,, usually a 350ci with a 3.48" Crank..
could be a 327 w/3.25" or a 302 w/3.0" ,, or 383 with a longer stroke 400 crank..

Holley Carb 80457-2
That's a 2nd build out of 7, of the 80457, so its older, still better than a Edy.. IMO
heres the stock specs link>
https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_carb_numerical_listing.pdf

mechanical fuel pump. W0919
probly a basic made in chiner..
found several numbers close, same style, they were all 6-9~ish psi,, maybe??
no-name brand, just a cheap chrome replacement ..

if you mean the top Choke Butterfly ??
its usually locked by the closed throttle,
open the throttle a little, and see if it moves ??

Where does this hose go to ??
View attachment 130942

and need to move the fuel hose out away from the motor, and the heat,
heat is bad on this new gas we have now days,, it will boil at 175*f ..
cause's hot start problems, flooding,
and melt-ing of plastic fuel filters,,
there great for testing, then swap to a 10-20 micron metal filter..

[ do not get a glass filter ]

back later
Thank you!

I'll do some reading/watching on timing.

Ah yes. Choke butterfly moves perfectly fine with throttle opened a bit.

Here are the numbers stamped on front of block. C4v302814 v1011txt.

Here's a better picture of the hose you highlighted.
130943


I'll work on moving fuel lines and replacing filter like you suggested.

Thanks again for helping a novice like me.
 

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(y)
I forgot
on the older Holleys they don't have the Power Valve blow-out protection
the new ones have.. that will cause a Rich condition all the time, unless
someone has tried to tune around it..
its usually back-fireing out of the carb that blows the Powervalve..
check the spark-plugs,, if there dark / black ?? its rich,
could be more than one reason tho
fuel pressure, float level, power-valve, poor tune....

the hose I marked is correct, I just wasn't thinking that far back..
its for the choke air, on the newer carbs its internal..

if the intake manifold you have now is a Spread Bore, meaning the rear
throttle bore is way bigger than the front, its for a Qjet,
probly what the adapter/spacer under the carb is for..
for me ""Holleys are for race cars, and Qjets are for everything else..""
Qjet is a real good street carb, i have never needed a Edelbroke..

heres some 80457 install manuals, a not vary old one,
and a new one from Holley for a 80457-S ..
https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/500/510/510-0-80457S.pdf

heres some readin on ignition timing, full vs ported vacuum for the distributor,
full is all ways better on the street.. IMO
Performance
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm super slow with working on Camino, but here's an update.

Rebuilt the carb. It was all sorts of dirty inside and out. Ended up having a cracked metering block, faulty electric choke, and was generally worn out. So I opted to buy a refurbished Holley 80457s.

Figured that while making this swap, it wouldn't hurt to replace fuel lines, filter, and fittings with Earl's vapor gaurd. Also installed a fuel pressure regulator and summit mechanical fuel pump.

Changed the battery and made sure proper volts were getting where they needed.

Car fired right up and ran beautifully... Except, it's not shifting from 1st to 2nd. It'll go park, neutral, reverse, and drive, but not to 2nd/3rd. I believe it's a 700r4 automatic transmission. Hooked up the TV cable to the hole suggested on carb throttle assembly. Have watched videos and read a few things on adjusting this cable, but seem a little confused on it.

Does anyone know how to properly adjust this?

Previous Holley carb only had 1 place to connect the TV cable to.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
NVM on TV cable adjustment. Finally found a video that explained it well.

Camino running better than every now.

Thanks all for the input! I've learned a lot doing this.
 
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