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I am doing some things that seem to be helping. Removed all the smog stuff (air pump, tubes, etc). Put on dual exhaust with magnaflows and just last week a new Edelbrock carb with a new standard distributor. No more ecm connections.

Having a little trouble with high idle sticking for a while after it's warm and some trouble with restarts after sitting for a while and still warm. Not sure if it's me or the carb so I thought I would ask.

Anyone with a Edelbrock Performer that can tell me about cold starts, warm starts, how much throttle expected to restart, etc would be great. Still tweaking the choke,etc for the new set up. It runs like a scalded dog but I bet it could be running better at the low end.

FYI, this one has a 350 crate engine and a 350T tranny with an electric TC lock up. I suspect my TCL is not working now so if anyone has advice on how to get that working would be helpful.

Love this car and love the fact that it made the calendar for GA/NC/SC, May 2014!! Check it out.
 

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1. check fuel pressure
2. check fuel pressure
3. check manual where it says NO MORE THAN 5.5psi of fuel pressure (I seem to remember it's page 4 or 5)

Edelbrock / carbs are very sensitive to fuel pressure. More than 5.5 and fuel will push past the needle and seat causing the bowls to over fill,, (= wet plugs and hard starts, unable to tune the cruise calibration bla bla bla) There a OK bolt on and forget it carb IF you check and KNOW your fuel pump isn't making 6+ psi. Even a little $25 1" gauge in the fuel line is better than NO gauge, but you really should check fuel PSI at idle and at cruise rpm to KNOW what you have.

If your using an electric choke version,, be SURE the choke isn't wired in the same wire as the distributor. The electric choke pulls a considerable draw and will weaken the power to the distributor (= hard starts)

For lockup,, you can check into one of the many kits that does a high gear only lockup,, and/or B&M has a nice kit that will only allow lockup at specific RPM (be sure and get the kit that matches your speedo version,, they have kits for cars with exiasting VSS signal (electronic speedo) or adapter to create the VSS signal and retain the stock speedo cable,,, nice kit, but pricy)

A 'high idle' sticking can EASILY be the new distributor. If there is no mechanical reason and the throttle lever appears to return to idle position,, then it's probably the distributor. For some reason many of the low cost aftermarket distributors have been set up with LIGHT advance springs and do not wand to dot pull the weights in to return to base timing. The 'advance crve' starts so low (1000-1200rpm) that the motor cant get to a low enough rom for this silly agressive advance curve to drop out.

Simple check is to check the timing when it REALLY is at idle, and when it 'sticks'
 

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Might also look at a starter heat shield, they're like 10 bucks at jegs, and will help you rule out the starter being overheated. :nanawoot:
 

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More info

You guys are awesome!! Thanks for all the time to respond. I am glad to report some of the things are better. I believe I have the choke and high idle thing resolved. Just needed some tweaking and now it seems to work fine. Starts when cold at about 2000 rpm, one tap and it drops to about 1500 rpm and after driving for a few minutes it is sitting at under 1000 rpm just fine. Had a couple of cold mornings here in GA so I had some good chances to figure it out.

Hard starting seems to be heat soak as described on the Edelbrock website. I think the spacer is the solution so we are looking at that. I'll check the fuel pressure but from what I can tell that is not the problem. It looks like the ethanol laced gas is evaporating due to heat. I pulled the air cleaner off to adjust the choke while she was hot and could see the vapor and actually heard a light sizzle of what appears to be gas evaporating out of the carb. No visible gas liquid that would suggest high fuel pressure but just visible vapor.

I am also checking into Dakota Digital for new dash stuff and am looking to see if they have an output that would handle the lock up problem if I got with them to upgrade the gauges.

Again, thanks for all the advice. I'll use it and I suspect it helps someone else along the way.
 
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