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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm ready to pull my motor on the motor mounts I see two screws side by side and one that looks like it go through the mount are those the only bolts except the tranny? Two motor mounts and tranny bolts and out it comes correct? How many screws on the tranny th200?
Thanks
Robert
 

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ZERO MPG
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15,367 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
yep,that them..:nanawrench:
:beer:
+


Cool by tomorrow the swap should be complete then the start-up after everything is checked then rechecked with break-in fluids I hope. so far not really any issues that couldn't be fixed and the motor bolts have been sprayed everyday for a week including the exhaust bolt connectors to the exhaust pipe.:nanawrench::nanawrench::beer:


Should I have the hoist connected to the motor before removing the motor mount and tranny bolts? I would think so.
 

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It is easier and safer to get the torque converter bolts out before you pull the engine than lay under it with it swinging on the lift.
There are 6 bell housing bolts.
It is easier to get to the top two if you put a jack under the tranny, slide the cross member back and lower the tranny a little (if you are pulling the engine separate). You can then sit it back on the cross member until you are actually ready to start lifting.
Good luck with the swap. Be safe and have a memorable weekend.
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter #5
It is easier and safer to get the torque converter bolts out before you pull the engine than lay under it with it swinging on the lift.
There are 6 bell housing bolts.
It is easier to get to the top two if you put a jack under the tranny, slide the cross member back and lower the tranny a little (if you are pulling the engine separate). You can then sit it back on the cross member until you are actually ready to start lifting.
Good luck with the swap. Be safe and have a memorable weekend.
I'm leaving the tranny in just pulling the motor so just to make sure what bolts on the tranny do I take off.?
 

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If you are just pulling the engine, you can leave the trans attached to the crossmember and all you need do is remove the bellhousing bolts (6 iirc) and the torque convertor bolts (3) from below - remember to push the convertor towards the trans after the bolts are removed - it should move about a 1/4"

Bellhousing bolts: (DO THE TORQUE CONVERTOR BOLTS FIRST)
Six - two to either side of the motor and easy to access from below - 9/16" heads- the remaining two on top are a pain at the best of times, I've gotten to them either by a series of long extensions and a spring loaded u-joint from below, or literally crawling on top of the motor and using a box or open end wrench from above

Torque convertor bolts:
From under the vehicle have an assistant rotate the motor with a socket on a breaker bar or long handled ratchet via the crank snout bolt - you will be under the car ready to pull the three bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flex plate. These bolts will be tight and the assistant at the front of the motor will need to prevent the crank from turning while you apply the force needed to remove the bolts.
If your trans still has the sheetmetal inspection cover it will have to be removed first. once the three bolts are removed the convertor can be push just slightly towards the rear of the car, usually not more than a 1/4"

Have a floor jack with a piece of plywood or some other load spreader ready to place under the trans oil pan - this will support the trans when the engine is removed, The load spreader is there to prevent denting the trans oil pan. If the engine has to stay out for any length of time you can wire the trans up in place with wire coathangers and remove the jack - otherwise leave it there.

There are probably one or more engine ground straps, often either near one of the motor mounts or at the back of the engine connecting the engine to the firewall, keep an eye out for these, they can usually be better accessed after the motor is off the mounts and hung by the hoist.

Get a bunch of ziplok bags if you havent already for the various bolts.
 

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ZERO MPG
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Discussion Starter #7

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ZERO MPG
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15,367 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
:beer:
If you are just pulling the engine, you can leave the trans attached to the crossmember and all you need do is remove the bellhousing bolts (6 iirc) and the torque convertor bolts (3) from below - remember to push the convertor towards the trans after the bolts are removed - it should move about a 1/4"

Bellhousing bolts: (DO THE TORQUE CONVERTOR BOLTS FIRST)
Six - two to either side of the motor and easy to access from below - 9/16" heads- the remaining two on top are a pain at the best of times, I've gotten to them either by a series of long extensions and a spring loaded u-joint from below, or literally crawling on top of the motor and using a box or open end wrench from above

Torque convertor bolts:
From under the vehicle have an assistant rotate the motor with a socket on a breaker bar or long handled ratchet via the crank snout bolt - you will be under the car ready to pull the three bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flex plate. If your trans still has the sheetmetal inspection cover it will have to be removed first. once the three bolts are removed the convertor can be push just slightly towards the rear of the car, usually not more than a 1/4"

Have a floor jack with a piece of plywood or some other load spreader ready to place under the trans oil pan - this will support the trans when the engine is removed. If the engine has to stay out for any length of time you can wire the trans up in place with wire coathangers and remove the jack - otherwise leave it there.

There are probably one or more engine ground straps, often either near one of the motor mounts or at the back of the engine connecting the engine to the firewall, keep an eye out for these, they can usually be better accessed after the motor is off the mounts and hung by the hoist.

Get a bunch of ziplok bags if you havent already for the various bolts.

I have been bagging and tagging each set of bolts to where they go . That was one of the things I knew needed to be done with marking all connections, photos and video's of where everything is connected. So I have three back up ways to check where everything goes.
 

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Is it all three or just that bolt going through the frame I need to pull it then the other two stay on the motor or is that bracket welded to the frame?

I have new motor mounts.
Just remove the long horizontal bolt. You can replace mounts after the engine is out. Check in the Tips section for my write-up on replacing the motor mounts.

Be sure to disconnect the battery ground cable and remove the wires from the starter. If the trans is an OD, it has a wire and plug that need to be removed.

Be sure the torque converter doesn't get removed while pulling the engine --- trans fluid all over.

Jack
 

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ZERO MPG
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15,367 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Just remove the long horizontal bolt. You can replace mounts after the engine is out. Check in the Tips section for my write-up on replacing the motor mounts.

Be sure to disconnect the battery ground cable and remove the wires from the starter. If the trans is an OD, it has a wire and plug that need to be removed.

Be sure the torque converter doesn't get removed while pulling the engine --- trans fluid all over.

Jack
Cool everything is off the motor already except the trans. and mounts so I should be good to go. I have new mounts so I can install them on the new motor on the stand before dropping it in. Sounds like it should be a breeze everything else has.
Thanks
Robert
 
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