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Discussion Starter #1
Alright so this is long. About a year ago I got a performance tuned rochester for my '79 with the 305. Ran great for about 6 months then it wouldn't hold gas to start. (either need to reprime or use starting fluid) Then a couple months after that the acceleration became crap then it wouldn't go over 75mph then 70 etc, etc. I tuned and timed and tuned and timed but no change. So for as far as that goes I think it's the accel pump and gone from there. Moving on so today I get in the old girl to run down to the laundromat (washer drive pump broke yesterday, when it rains it pours) and it wouldn't go over 15 mph fed up I came home ripped the carb off and slapped on a carter I got in a storage unit cleanout with four others.(It looked in the best shape) and fired it up. Ran real nice until I touched the throttle then it revved up sky high because in my idiocy and rage I didn't check the clearance for the butterflies. I got it shut down and tried to fire it up again. Lo and behold I hear a nasty sounding rod(s?) knock sound. So here is my dillema. I have a 63 vette 327 unfinished in the garage which is destined for this car. However. I don't have heads for it that are complete. I do have a set of 68 327 heads at the machine shop for the gf's jeep. Can I use 305 heads on it, or should I do a main and rod kit? I would really rather not put my 327 in it since it is not built for the components in the car now (TH-200 and the 2.96(I think) rear) and the whole car is going to get stripped and restoed in a few years. I'll do what I need to except use the gf's 327 block. Thoughts on it all? As always advice appreciated
 

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I'm not sure if the 305 heads will fit a 327 without some modifications and even if you can get them on, I don't know if the bore/piston size will match. I do know that the 305 from '79 was bad about excessive cam wear. I had to do an upper rebuild on one and replace the cam, timing chain, valves, etc. That could be some of the problem. Have you checked your compression?
 

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Find a good set of 305`s, they will have the bolt pattern for late model accessorys, alt, A/C ect,, just watch the good closed chamber heads of the 305`s,, watch the C/R,, I love the 327`s!! Great motor! Matty man
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm thinking I burned out the rod bearings when it overrevved. I've had a leak and I didn't check the oil level before I did the swap
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Id guess 6500rpm. I had pressure when I drove it for the short time it drove but I didn't check the level
 
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Id guess 6500rpm. I had pressure when I drove it for the short time it drove but I didn't check the level
Oil pressure does not always mean you have oil. An oil pressure gauge measures pounds per square inch,not the oil level. You can have a top off of oil and still get 20psi. Most of the time if you hear lifters tapping,its time for oil. What was your oil psi at? With my engine,I get between 50&60 psi and the lowest it drops is 30&40.
Running a heavier weight oil keeps things lubricated and keeps the pressure above 30 all the time. I use 20-50 btw.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oil pressure gets to 40 on a good day. It was running at 30. I've got a lot of miles on this car. A lot of miles. I'm thinking about putting in some 40 weight and see what that does. I don't drive it much anymore and no more than 15 miles at a stretch when I do.
 

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Ok so you start with the carb fuel bowl leaking the the fuel and needing to be primed or starting fluid to get her started(most likely the fuelbowl well plugs are leaking),then you aquired a knock of some sort.Are you sure it's a rod knock?Check the bottom of the carb to make sure all of the screws are still in the baseplate.If one is missing it may be possible it's in the engine making the noise.
 

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If you're wanting to increase oil pressure, Lucus makes an oil additive that will add a few lbs, and help coat the pistons, lifters and bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The knocking started after changing the carb and over-reving it when the butterflies on the new carb stuck open
 
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