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Discussion Starter #1
Sup guys. I have a TBI ,.327 bored .040 over,(TRW part # L2165) Flat top pistons with World Castings heads, Scorpion Roller Rockers (1.5) with Chet Herbert 7.900 / .083 pushrods. the cam is wiped. I believe it to be a Crane Cam P/N 100052. (two of the lifters are actually concaved!!!!!!!! Check out my pics and let me know what you think. My question is, should I stick with this cam or is there another set-up that might be better. If you've been follwing me then you know this a donor motor I got for free from a 82 pickup and that I'm new to the hot rod scene and full of questions, some better than others. I've gotten nothing but positive feeback on what I've inherited as my first project. Any input you guys have would be really appreciated.

http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=23760

http://photobucket.com/TonyW81
 

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If you replace it with another flat tappet setup be sure to fire it up for break-in after changing oil and filter. You must add an oil additive containing "ZDDP", a blend of zinc and phosphorous molecules that will bond to the virgin surfaces and protect them during break-in and thereafter. Castrol has a new oil out, name escapes me, that provides this ZDDP . With any solid lifter cam it is critical to ensure adequate clearance. Too tight on the valve clearances will scrape too much oil off the lobes as they rotate towards the lifter causing damage that will eventually put you right back in the same position.I prefer to run a couple extra thousandths of clearance, especially on exhaust side.
You might be able to go for a roller setup for little more money.Rollers are sweet.
Like STEELYBILL cautioned, break it in @ 2000 RPM, don't let it idle.
James
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is this a cam you installed ? Was it broke in at 2000+ RPM for around 1/2 hour??
Break-in is where a flat tappet cam can win or lose.... any idling at first start is usually bad news...
I'm not familiar with that cam......
No sir. I'm still in the disassembly portion f all this. The previous owner had this cam installed. I was wondering if I should replace it with the same unit or go a different route, seeing what happened to this particular cam.
 

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It all depends on what your looking for, high horsepower or a little more than street horses. I'm in the middle of my first ever engine build and I am reading new stuff everyday about the different cam/lifter/rocker arm/valve spring, etc. combinations you can go. From what I've seen unless you want a monster of an engine I'd stay flat tappet lifters but go hydraulic. And unless your set up for a roller cam go hydraulic flat tappet. It seems to be a decent setup for a decent price. Good luck on your first build!


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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If this is a new rebuild, I would go with a roller cam for sure---it's quite a few more bucks up front but opens the door to so many more possibilities for the engine. roller cams can be had for all applications from bottom end rock crawler to all out drag racer. Since you say it's a .040 over 327 then it is obviously a 4 in bore block. The question then becomes is it a small or large main journal block.
If I were doing it I'd sneak a stroker crank in there and end up with 385 cubic inches.....Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If this is a new rebuild, I would go with a roller cam for sure---it's quite a few more bucks up front but opens the door to so many more possibilities for the engine. roller cams can be had for all applications from bottom end rock crawler to all out drag racer. Since you say it's a .040 over 327 then it is obviously a 4 in bore block. The question then becomes is it a small or large main journal block.
If I were doing it I'd sneak a stroker crank in there and end up with 385 cubic inches.....Dan
Check my pics. I snapped a few part numbers from the bottom end.

http://photobucket.com/TonyW81
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It all depends on what your looking for, high horsepower or a little more than street horses. I'm in the middle of my first ever engine build and I am reading new stuff everyday about the different cam/lifter/rocker arm/valve spring, etc. combinations you can go. From what I've seen unless you want a monster of an engine I'd stay flat tappet lifters but go hydraulic. And unless your set up for a roller cam go hydraulic flat tappet. It seems to be a decent setup for a decent price. Good luck on your first build!


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
check out my pics and maybe you can tell me what i have. I beleive that I have hydraulic flat tappets. Busted ones anyways!!!! Ha!!!
http://photobucket.com/TonyW81
 

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If you supply us the numbers/letters from the top/front of the block surface, just ahead of the right head, we may be able to tell you what year it is. !967 seems to be a transition year, from small journal cranks to large journal. I believe ( it's a memory thing) that the small journal cranks are forged, while the later large journal cranks are nodular castings. Nothing wrong with the small journal cranks, forgings are tough, but the large journal allows use of a 350, or 383 stroker crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
if you supply us the numbers/letters from the top/front of the block surface, just ahead of the right head, we may be able to tell you what year it is. !967 seems to be a transition year, from small journal cranks to large journal. I believe ( it's a memory thing) that the small journal cranks are forged, while the later large journal cranks are nodular castings. Nothing wrong with the small journal cranks, forgings are tough, but the large journal allows use of a 350, or 383 stroker crank.
you weren't able to determine from any of my pictures i assume? the casting number on the crank is 3941174G. I believe this block to be a late model .327. The research i did tells me this has the "Large Journals" you're speaking of.
http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums...ony_Watlington/PROJECT EL CAMINO/1e4f73c2.jpg
http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums...n/PROJECT EL CAMINO/327engineandtranny005.jpg
 

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The numbers and letter stamps I refer to are like I said, on the top-front, right side of the block. The letters may start with an "H", or "F", with the "F" letter being a 1969 year.
HF is listed as a 1968, for example. The serial , production number comes after the letter designator.
It's always good to know all you can about the engine......
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The numbers and letter stamps I refer to are like I said, on the top-front, right side of the block. The letters may start with an "H", or "F", with the "F" letter being a 1969 year.
HF is listed as a 1968, for example. The serial , production number comes after the letter designator.
It's always good to know all you can about the engine......
I was barely able to make out "17HE" and that's sketchy at best. that alphanumeric stamping are all but gone.
 
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