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Discussion Starter #1
Heyas.
I have the '86 that was stalling when i pushed on the brakes. Six mechanics later i found one (the guy with twenty cars in his yard that all run great and lives and breathes small block chevys) that was trustworthy and actually seemed interested in the problem. it turns out the culprit was in fact the dirty quadrajet carb. i bought an Edelbrock 600 carb and my brother in law had a brand new Air Gap intake manifold that he traded me for doing some wiring in his attic. the mechanic ended up pulling a distributor off a camaro he had laying around along with a few other bits and pieces. He did away with all the emission controls (they don't test up here in Michigan, hehe) and the car runs sooo good now. no more rpm dips and flutters. no more stalling at stop signs. i'm curious how much horsepower it gained, or if it's just all in my head that the car feels like it's got way more get-up-and-go.

the only snag we ran into was the connection on the throttle kickdown cable. the cable end is supposed to slip over a nut on the carb, but the connection on the car is a hole. he said he could've macguyver'd something, but he's gonna try to find a legit way to do it, first. he wants me to bring the car back to him in a few days anyway so he can check for leaks and do any tuning that's needed (pretty awesome customer service, i must say).

also, i'm gonna need a new air filter. the setup sits a little higher now and the old one doesn't fit. any suggestions or preferences for the new one?

anyway, here's a pic of all the space that's in the engine compartment now. i shoulda took one of the pile of hoses and other junk that came outta there.
 

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Hey Max, what is that you have a round the base of the passenger side wiper arm? it looks like a hose clamp.. Tha latch on my wiper arm will not hold mine on so I need to find a new arm. This idea might cork if it will clear the cowl hood. Bot much room in there.
 

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What transmission do you have? If it's a 200 4r or a 700r4, that "kickdown cable" is crucial to the operation of your transmission and has to be working properly. Not doing so will result in the failure of the transmission in a very few miles.
 

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Was just going to post same. If it's just the TH350 kickdown cable though, it will have a flat-headed pin/slot connection. Find the little stud at the parts store or hot rod shop. Just make sure it's in the right hole in the carb lever. For TH350 kickdown cable, set the cable to just short of full-pull at WOT.
 

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Not too keen on that rubber fuel line running behind the alt. down to the f/p. I might do it a little different there....
:twocents:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yikes! i thought that cable was just for passing gear. i'll have to get ahold of the mechanic right away tomorrow. as far as which trans i have, i just checked the sticker on the door and it's really faded.

if i knew exactly where on that sticker the info was, i might be able to make it out. my girlfriend works with photoshop a lot, too and she might be able to decrypt it if i can get a better pic and scan it in. anybody know where on the sticker that info is?

also, that is in fact a hose clamp on the windshield wiper. it was like that when i bought the car.

it appears the plate that's rivited? to the bottom of the wiper arm is loose and somebody hose clamped it on. it works fine, so it's on the back burner as far as fixing it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i've only driven the car a few miles since i got it back yesterday, but it seems like the RPMs are higher when the auto transmission shifts, and when it does it "pops." could this be a symptom of that cable not being connected? i figured the car just had a different character after having all that work done.
i just left a message on my mechanic's phone. kinda freaked out right now! haha
 

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It's important to know what trans you have, a 700r4 HAS TO HAVE the kickdown hooked up(controls pump pressure and downshifts at the same time) if its not hooked up your trans can burn quite quickly from slippage. for your kickdown, if you have a 700r4 you need a "geometry corrector" (just a little bracket that bolts to the carb that puts the pull in the right spots) several places sell one for edelbrock carbs for between twenty five and forty dollars (i copied a pic from a jegs catalog and resized it for a template and made my own from quarter inch aluminum) the nipple the cable clips onto is only a few bucks at the parts store.
a th350 does not HAVE TO HAVE the kickdown cable hooked up, but without it your shifts will be slushy and at lower rpms (not to mention when you stomp it it won't kick down for that little extra hmmph).
the same "Geometry corrector" for the 700 will work fine for the th350.
 

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Hmmm, I had an Edelbrock with a "correct' bracket (yeah, right), and I changed carbs and intake. Had to bend the bracket part that fits on the carb bolt to make it work. The 700r4 shifts pretty well into all gears. Don't know about kickdown, as I've not gotten into a time I needed to kickdown. Will try that before going to Belton. It does shift better than it did with the "proper" bracket on the Edelbrock.

Sparky, suggest you crawl under and identify what tranny you have. All the autos have a different shaped tranny pan.
 

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Is that also one of those glass screw together fuel filters before the carb?? If so i would run and run fast to replace it with something else, those are only good for starting fires when the rubber seals inside start to leak fuel all over your nice hot intake..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok, it's raining but i drove the car up on ramps and crawled under there anyway. checked the bolt pattern with a diagram i found here on the forums. it is in fact a 2004r. mrblanche says the geometry corrector is essential to this thing working right, so i'm gonna order one.
http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/376710/10002/-1
is this the part i'm looking for?
is there anything else i'm gonna need?
my mechanic didn't know this was serious business, and that's got me pretty bummed out. that combined with what you guys are saying about the fuel lines and glass filter have got me ready to pull my hair out. if it wasn't for you guys, i'd likely have a blown tranny right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
here's a couple pics of what i've got going on right now.



i can take some better pics if it'll help.
i can move this to a new thread, too if need be.
again, thanks for all the help you guys are giving.
 

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Yes that is the bracket you need, hopefully you have another car to get around in while you wait for the part. Driving with it disconnected will damage your tranny, check local tranny part shops they might have one and you wont have to wait for one to come in the mail
 

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Seriously ditch the fire bomb filter. Ive got two friends whose cars have burned to their ax les because of those effin things. Once when i was in the car. Solid or braided lines all the wat as far as i am concerned and metal filters.

I might not be too harsh on your old skool mechanic. If he is seriously old skool then overdrive trannies are outside his wheelhouse. Research is everything get yourself edumacated on these things there are umpteen books about trannies and engine work without some knowledge under your belt you are fodder for every crook with a wrench.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #17
went to see a buddy of mine that's got a setup close to mine. he put the same 200r tranny and a 750 edelbrock carb on his '56 chevy rat rod. this is the way he's got his wired up:

so i went and did the pretty much the same thing to mine.

i grinded the end off a bolt so the TV cable end would fit over it, then used a couple sinkers to get the right spacing. ghetto, i know, but not permanent. he actually had a geometry corrector that game with his tranny, but to put that on, i would've had to build a bracket to relocate the TV cable so it would line up right. that's the permanent fix.
so i consulted my Haynes manual and adjusted the slider in the fitting, then pushed the pedal to the floor. the auto adjuster ratcheted into place. took the car for a ride around the block. the car shifts like it's supposed to again. awesome. now GET THIS:
we are stalling at stopsigns again. back to square one. any ideas?
 

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is it dieing? or stalling? if it's dieing, try idling her up just a little, or if it's a solid stalling(like the clutch pedal is not pushed in on a manual trans)maybe the lockup switch, try unplugging the lockup switch at the trans, see if that helps. GL
 
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