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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey so I got 1982 el Camino with 5.0l 305
I rebuilt the cylinder heads recently and putting it all back together and starting it
it wouldn't start. It sounded like something was hitting the valves and so I re adjusted the valves and it got bit better but still has the hitting sound and I don't really know what to try now. I also put new lifters and valves aswell
 

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Did you prime the oil pump until you had oil coming out of the rockers?

If not then lifters may be partially collapsed and turning it over pumps them up to where they are too tight.
 

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If it was me I'd back the rockers off, pull the distributor and spin the pump with a drill until I got oil out of the lifters/push rods then adjust the lifters.
 

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How are you adjusting the valves?. A flat tappet hydraulic cam I am assuming,, what is your method to adjust the valves and how much are you tightening the valve lash?.
 

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Hi goldjames, welcome from Idaho. Glad you've joined us. Looking forward to seeing pictures of your 82 El Camino. Where abouts are you located? Have fun with your 82 El Camino and the community.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I adjusted them by putting 1 cylinder on tdc and tightening them till no play in rod and then 2 90 degree turns

And then turning crank 90 and starting on next cylinder on firing order. I'm new to working on cars and that's just what I learned from online.
 

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I adjusted them by putting 1 cylinder on tdc and tightening them till no play in rod and then 2 90 degree turns

And then turning crank 90 and starting on next cylinder on firing order. I'm new to working on cars and that's just what I learned from online.
ok, so it sounds like you did a half-turn tighten past the no-play, correct?
 

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I've built a dozen SBC engines complete and rebuilt top end of many more. There's more to valve lash than just putting # 1 on TDC. Half round is way too much! There are specific valves that you adjust when #1 is at TDC. Then rotate the engine 1 full turn to get #6 at TDC. Do it this way after you prime the engine:

Get #1 to Top Dead Center

Exh.- 1 - 3 - 4 -8

Int.- 1- 2 -5 - 7



Get #6 to Top Dead Center

Exh.- 2 - 5 - 6 - 7

Int.- 3 - 4- 6 - 8



Adjust until pushrod will not spin between fingers and then add ¼ turn and tighten nut

You will only turn the engine 2 times. To Get TDC #1 and TDC #6

 

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Also, make sure you're on true TDC for #1. I've seen quite a few guys try to get timing and/or valves set with the cam at TDC on #6.

Bill
 

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Your valves are too tight.

To avoid confusion adjust each valve when you have visually determined that the valve has closed completely, also it is VERY easy to take too much when seeking the zero lash point before you add the 1/2 to 3/4 turn adjustment (I go 1/2 turn but the book calls for 3/4).

Remove all of the plugs.
Rotate the engine manually until you visually watch the first valve in the head fully open then close, when it is fully closed adjust that one valve (repeat for each valve as you go).

The important thing is to be certain that the lifter is not on the cam lobe but is on the base circle of the cam when you adjust that valve, the visual method (as opposed to the engine positional method) removes the possibility of error.

This method use a lot manual engine rotation but it removes all possibility of error if you are a rookie, you will be visually determining each lifter is on the base circle of the cam when you adjust each individual rocker arm.

When you are adjusting make sure you are seeking zero lash by lifting up & down on the rocker (not spinning the push rod with your fingers), once you have taken all of the lash out (but no more) by pulling up and down on the rocker you are ready to make your degree turn to set the lifter plunger.

If you use the method of spinning the push rod you will likely take out more than enough to get to zero lash and your final adjustment will be too tight, just lift up & down on the rocker as you tighten the nut a little at a time until no lash is felt between the push rod and the rocker; then make your chosen degree rotation of the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey, sorry it took so long for me to respond back I've had stuff I had to do. but good news I got it running I adjusted the valvesand primed the lifters I tried starting it but the starter didnt work, there was a crack in the starter so I replaced the starter but then gas was shooting out the carburetor. I took the carb apart and cleaned and made sure the float was ok and after that the car started a bit. I adjusted the timing and boom now it starts and idles but I got a problem I had when I first got the car it backfires through the carb when giving it gas so I'm gonna start another forum and ask but thank you for everyone telling me what to try.
 
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