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Master Dipstick
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a heavy fuel smell after I shut the engine down, the fumes will fill my garage and even when it's outside I can smell gas if I walk past the front end. When I swapped engines I did away with the charcoal canister and capped the vent line that returns to the tank. That didn't work.. so much pressure built up in the tank that when I would remove the gas cap it would all but shoot out of the filler neck when I hit the last thread, even with a new vented cap. So I put the canister back in place which solved the pressure in the tank issue, but now I have the fumes. Would a new canister eliminate this? Can I bypass the canister and run the hose from the carb directly into the return line to the tank?
 

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Possabilities....
-leak out base of carb
-fuel line leak

Was it doing this before you bypassed the canister?
 

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Master Dipstick
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didnt see any signs of leakage at the base of the carb. ( I have a polished aluminum intake and detailed my engine today) the fuel line is good too. I havent bypassed the canister yet don't know if thats a good idea or if I should replace the canister, no telling how old it is could be original.
 

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Ill tell you right now i dont know on the canister if you can by-pass it. Now i think there is a different type which is smaller but it serves a purpose so you will have to do mods to get rid of it.

Now the fuel smell, thats interesting. I dont want to confuse you at all beause i really dont have much more ideas of what it could be? Have you noticed any spots under where your elky sits?
 

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Master Dipstick
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ill tell you right now i dont know on the canister if you can by-pass it. Now i think there is a different type which is smaller but it serves a purpose so you will have to do mods to get rid of it.

Now the fuel smell, thats interesting. I dont want to confuse you at all beause i really dont have much more ideas of what it could be? Have you noticed any spots under where your elky sits?
No, no spots or signs of leakage.
 

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put it back on thats what it is there for to catch the fuel vapors and burn them when you start it up
 

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put it back on thats what it is there for to catch the fuel vapors and burn them when you start it up
So I put the canister back in place which solved the pressure in the tank issue, but now I have the fumes. Would a new canister eliminate this? Can I bypass the canister and run the hose from the carb directly into the return line to the tank?
He put it back on CCC & has the fumes !!
Do you have a line to the carb for the fumes to go to ?
 

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You didn't mention,( or I missed ) which carb you have, if it's a Q-jet, there's a possibility of the composite float sinking a bit, making for a higher level in the bowl. If you don't have the vac hose from the canister to the carb (like mentioned) the smell may be present from the canister nipple where the hose is supposed to be. Gas, specially the ethanol spiked stuff, evaporates quite fast, and may not leave enough evidence for you to see where there may be a leak. Maybe you could run it without the air cleaner & watch for wet spots etc.....just an idea....
 

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Master Dipstick
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
He put it back on CCC & has the fumes !!
Do you have a line to the carb for the fumes to go to ?
Steve Yes I have a hose that runs from the carb to the canister and one from the canister to the line leading back to the tank.
 

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Master Dipstick
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You didn't mention,( or I missed ) which carb you have, if it's a Q-jet, there's a possibility of the composite float sinking a bit, making for a higher level in the bowl. If you don't have the vac hose from the canister to the carb (like mentioned) the smell may be present from the canister nipple where the hose is supposed to be. Gas, specially the ethanol spiked stuff, evaporates quite fast, and may not leave enough evidence for you to see where there may be a leak. Maybe you could run it without the air cleaner & watch for wet spots etc.....just an idea....
Steelybill it's a Q-jet. I'll run it without the air cleaner on it and see if I notice any leaks, thanks
 

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it go s to the bowl vent and the pcv valve. if you have a non stock carb without a bowl vent nipple add one to the bottom of your air cleaner housing between the element and carb throat
 

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the canister has to be there the charcoal takes away the smell and the vacuum valve on top of the canister or in its line to the carb is hooked to the vacuum port either on the pcv valve or carb,when you start it the vacuum opens the valve to alow the fumes to be sucked into the carb and burned.if you just hook it up strait it will still have the smell just comeing from the carb.have you ever painted a car with a good charcoal resperator on,no paint smell at all,its because of the charcoal.worlds best filter media.the canisters do go bad with time.put a new one on and hook everything up that goes to it.it doesnt hurt your performance one bit being there
 

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Master Dipstick
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the advise guy's I'll go ahead and replace it especially now that I have taken a closer look at it and noticed that the charcoal is coming out of the bottom of it.
 

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Bob , I agree that replacing the charcoal cannister is a good idea even if it turns out to be something else . I replaced mine about 6 months ago . It looked great on the outside but when I removed it , the bottom was packed with a dirty yellow looking slime . Forgot the price but would guess around $ 50 from NAPA .
 

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Master Dipstick
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well the plot thickens, I went to the local Quaker Steak and Lube Thursday night car show tonight after work. When i got back to my car the fuel smell was overwhelming I opened the door and it smelled like I had an unleaded fuel scented air freshener inside. I popped the hood and saw two puddles of gas on the drivers side of the intake manifold. It appeared to be coming from around the linkage and not the base of the carb. I'll need to run it and check it with more light and see if I can tell exactly where it's coming from ???
 

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You must still be running the original quadrajet. It sounds like the foam float is sinking and flooding it when you shut down. Carb needs a re-build with a new float is MHO from the info given.
 

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You do not have to spend $50 buck on a new charcoal canister. Please see my tip at this link for refreshing the one you have (if you have one.) Scroll down to find my post:

ECC Thread Here

The cost involved are about $10~$15 in aquarium activated charcoal (available at pet stores) and about $2 for a replacement paper filter on the bottom of the canister (available at Rock Auto and maybe elsewhere.)
 

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Master Dipstick
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You must still be running the original quadrajet. It sounds like the foam float is sinking and flooding it when you shut down. Carb needs a re-build with a new float is MHO from the info given.
Neil when I swapped motors and dumped the computer/ emissions stuff I got the Q-Jet from a guy I work with who's brother owns a carb shop. he gave the non CC, electric choke "rebuilt" carb shrink wrapped on cardboard for $50.00 ( co-worker discount) Maybe it's like everything else too good to be true and perhaps it was not completly rebuilt ??? I'll check into replacing the float or having the whole thing rebuilt. Last time I rebuilt a carb I was single (my oldest daughter turned 26 yesterday so it's been awhile) Thanks for the advise
 

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Master Dipstick
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You do not have to spend $50 buck on a new charcoal canister. Please see my tip at this link for refreshing the one you have (if you have one.) Scroll down to find my post:

ECC Thread Here

The cost involved are about $10~$15 in aquarium activated charcoal (available at pet stores) and about $2 for a replacement paper filter on the bottom of the canister (available at Rock Auto and maybe elsewhere.)
Great.. sounds like a plan for the canister. Thank You
 
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