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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I would love to do that except not get ripped off
I answered your question the other day. It looks to be a stock El Camino GM 7.5" 10 bolt. Pretty much all the G-body rear ends are the same, except for the few that came with 8.5"s (which yours is not). You really don't need any more information than that to order parts for it. If you just want to put a posi in it, you can go to Yukon gear's site, put your Elco's information in and it'll tell you all that you'll need. To put a posi in, you need the limited slip differential itself, a master install kit with bearings, and probably a ring and pinion while you're in there. Maybe put a set of Moser axles in it while you're at it through Summit racing too. Working on rear ends is a bit of a black magic though and based off your comments you may want to take it to a diff and transmission shop to do it correctly.
Will that Posi linked by another member work for me I’ll order now
 

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Will that Posi linked by another member work for me I’ll order now
Quick Performance is a good company so I would be fine with using that kit. You'll need to figure out what rear end ratio will work best for you. I have a 3.42 rear end ratio that I'm happy with personally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Believe me I know the feeling which is why I'm rebuilding mine myself right now. I couldn't find a shop that would work on mine for under $800. Well if you really want to do it yourself I would recommend watching this series of videos:
An impact wrench is basically a requirement and a hydraulic shop press is good to have if not 100% required. You'll need a dial indicator and magnetic base as well, both of which can be gotten at Harbor Freight for around $30. I'd also recommend getting the pinion yoke holding tool he uses in the video too as there's no way to actually compress the crush washer without it. I maxed out my impact trying to do it, really needs to be done with this tool and 2 breaker bars.
I’ll keep all this in mind but I think I’m gonna look for a shop as hard as I can that’s not foofoo
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Believe me I know the feeling which is why I'm rebuilding mine myself right now. I couldn't find a shop that would work on mine for under $800. Well if you really want to do it yourself I would recommend watching this series of videos:
An impact wrench is basically a requirement and a hydraulic shop press is good to have if not 100% required. You'll need a dial indicator and magnetic base as well, both of which can be gotten at Harbor Freight for around $30. I'd also recommend getting the pinion yoke holding tool he uses in the video too as there's no way to actually compress the crush washer without it. I maxed out my impact trying to do it, really needs to be done with this tool and 2 breaker bars.
Thanks for the info but I’m gonna try my best to look for a shop around here that’s not foofoo Knows what to do not trying to take a fortune
 

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as previously mentioned, setting up a rear takes a bit of knowledge. you already know you have a 7.5" axle from a gbody, that's all you need to know. from there you have several options depending on the route you are taking.

-you can change the gear ratio only
-you can change the entire diff gear unit
-you can change the axles
-in order to do any of these things, the whole guts need to come out, including the pinion, and pull the axles

-you can either put new or junkyard parts in
-if you go jyard you might as well go with a posi 7.625" (not a 7.5") that Camaros got ...BUT....
this is where changing axles comes in because of the spline count

what you may want to do is locate another gbody axle and build that one up to replace yours with. because I can guarantee you setting up the pinion/ring can be real finicky, especially if you have no experience or idea how to do it, and take several attempts even for a pro. that's where the experience comes in and why you're seeing big dollar amounts for the work
 

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what you may want to do is locate another gbody axle and build that one up to replace yours with. because I can guarantee you setting up the pinion/ring can be real finicky, especially if you have no experience or idea how to do it, and take several attempts even for a pro. that's where the experience comes in and why you're seeing big dollar amounts for the work
Best bet using factory parts is to try and find an 8.5" rear end from a Hurst Olds 442, Grand National, or T-Type but those are getting both hard to find and quite pricey nowadays. Honestly being that I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 8.5 right now, I'd say it's not really all that hard so long as you have the right tools and research ahead of time. In order to get the pinion shim right I bought an extra set of bearings and honed them out for a slight tolerance fit to slide off and on easier, also known as using "set-up' bearings. The only thing keeping me from going down the road currently is the ungodly amount of torque required to compress the crush washer for the pinion. There's a pinion yoke holding plate I'm waiting to get delivered so I can crank down on the pinion nut with a breaker bar being that my impact wrench wasn't up to the job.
 

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You forgot copious amounts of prayer, a lucky rabbits foot, virgin sacrifice to the Gods, multiple knocks on many different kinds of wood or whatever else you can think of to increase the odds of perfection when it comes to the crush sleeve. It's a 1 shot deal. If it's not perfect the first go around, you are tearing it all apart and starting over. Or you'll get more vibration out of that rear-end than a twerker on crack.
 

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You forgot copious amounts of prayer, a lucky rabbits foot, virgin sacrifice to the Gods, multiple knocks on many different kinds of wood or whatever else you can think of to increase the odds of perfection when it comes to the crush sleeve. It's a 1 shot deal. If it's not perfect the first go around, you are tearing it all apart and starting over. Or you'll get more vibration out of that rear-end than a twerker on crack.
That's the point of honing out and using a setup bearing. You can mock everything up, assemble, check backlash and gear pattern, then take it apart easily and press on the final bearings knowing that the shim you used is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
She’s in the shop he’s going to take it apart to make sure and we’ll go from there I’m going to use the link for that posi knockoff Eaton Seems like it’s pretty decent
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
OK so you guys were right it’s a 7.5 tiny little thing and it’s torn allegedly to shreds I needs rack and pinion pretty much he said I’d be better off buying a new rear end which he could find me cheaper and I could as well although I am starting to think I might not want Posi The way he described the high RPMs on the highway and extreme transmission and engine noise is this true and if it is can you guys at help me out on finding the best gears to take off 💨 fast And also not be maxed out at 60 mph Sounding like I’m about to explode
 

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OK so you guys were right it’s a 7.5 tiny little thing and it’s torn allegedly to shreds I needs rack and pinion pretty much he said I’d be better off buying a new rear end which he could find me cheaper and I could as well although I am starting to think I might not want Posi The way he described the high RPMs on the highway and extreme transmission and engine noise is this true and if it is can you guys at help me out on finding the best gears to take off 💨 fast And also not be maxed out at 60 mph Sounding like I’m about to explode
you got a couple choices:
-rebuild the axle you got
-buy a new rear axle

are you going drag racing every weekend? buy a new axle.
are you going once a month or less and not using slick tires? rebuild it

I would only buy a new one instead of rebuilding if the old housing is just beat up and bent.

posi vs non-posi , traction is better especially for dragracing
if you want more of a performance boost, change the gear ratio.

but again, this all depends on your budget. look at the $$$$ here below...


 

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‘Full posi’ doesn’t exist. That’s a made up term. All factory posis are limited slip. All will behave the same. Unless YOU have installed a locker or welded the spider gears together, you have limited slip.
There is no such thing as Full Posi’.
Patrick
 

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Where I grew up near Tampa, there were plenty of ppl running around with lockers/welded spiders that were used just for bridge racing. None of which were trailer queens. Ppl would use the term Full Posi for those, whether or not that's a factory designation or technically correct or not. I've always used the term standard, that article uses open differential.
Tater or spud...
 

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Never heard the term full posi but I've seen and known plenty of people who put a spool (or just welded the rear end spider gears) instead of a limited slip. Asides from cost I don't know why most wouldn't just go with a limited slip though.
If you aren't putting a ton of power down I'd say either find another 7.5 with a limited slip or just rebuild yours. So long as the axle tubes aren't bent and the housing isn't cracked it isn't hard to rebuild.
 

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It's for ppl with a heavy foot and too skinny tires. You get half a turn or so on limited slip before it changes from open to dual axle, way to easy to start smoking tire when only one grabs and starts fishtailing sideways. Locked up rears cancel most of that out as both tires grab simultaneously.
 
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