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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone had any experience with diy alignment. I looking to buy a Quick Trick alignment kit to do my own alignments. I have the adjustable UMI upper a-arms and one of the local shops wanted at least 2 hours at 100.00 per hour to do alignment and that was using shims. He was not receptive to the adjustable a-arms. So since I have nothing but lots of time why not learn and do it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
57Handyman I will keep you updated. I just ordered the quick trick alignment kit along with their turntables today. They had a promo and was able to knock off $86.00 for everything. I’m treading new ground here. The UMI adjustable a-arms will be a learning experience. I decided to by the turntables because I already have too much money tied up in the front end to skimp on making accurate measurements with the caster angle.
 

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Interesting… I used to do alignments many years ago when I worked in a spring/suspension shop. This was before the new style front ends and the use of computers to tell you what you are set at.
We would have to hang the gauge on the wheel and turn it in/out to take the measurement. I assume that these tables you are talking about are going to let you do that. Experience would tell you what size shim and where to put it.
What do you use for the toe in?
$200 hundred dollars minimum for an alignment is steep. Sounds like to guy you went to didn't want to mess with the shims. The new cars aren't like this with shims.
Anyway I can get an alignment done here for $99 flat rate.
Please keep us posted on how you make out with this.
 

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Put both front wheels on two pieces of greased sheet metal so the front wheels can relax into the cars true static alignment. Make sure the car is as level as possible..

You want to keep the camber negative and as low as possible. When you have a high camber setting the car will want to go side to side.

You want to keep the caster positive and over 5. I like 7-8 on my 69 with SPC arms..

You want to set the caster first, camber second then toe..

The more positive caster you have the less negative camber you need.. However positive caster can make steering slow and heavy feeling when you have too much..

When you have a good setting and you change it ever so slightly, you can make the whole car feel totally off. Alignments are so weird like this..

Once you have the car aligned, you need to drive it for a few hundred miles to burnish the tires to the new alignment. So however it feels, it will be better after 4 or 500 miles and the tire have worn in to the new alignment.

Some people add more positive caster to the right side to keep the car from pulling to the right due to road crown. Some use more negative camber to the right side.. You can also use both..

At first, set the toe from the center of the car to the wheel, not wheel to wheel.. Once you get the steering wheel centered and both wheels in the right spot, you can set toe using both wheels at once..

You can get satisfactory results setting alignments but nothing beats a good rack like the Hunter Hawk Eye with a good mechanic who knows how to run the machine..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Pitts64 thanks for the info. I just put everything back together yesterday. I need to adjust the new coil overs up. I’m going to try reinstalling my 1.25 sway bar now that I have hopefully resolved my front end issues. I had purchased the metal turn plates from Quick Trick when I bought the alignment kit. I wanted to get an accurate measurement as possible for my caster. I still need to square up the front and back wheels before doing the toe since everything has removed and replaced several times. Here are a couple of pics, my new Viking coil overs and pic of Elky after setting it down on the ground after install. I have matching wheels for the front 225/50/17. Currently the fronts are 205/70/15. Front end currently sits at 23” at center of fender. Going for 25”-26”.
ADC03A66-2E90-4889-A6BD-610B24A48C0B.jpeg
DE21FCF3-86B8-4CAD-8788-DB01EC3AE06A.jpeg
 

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Always thought about getting myself one of the quick trick setups. I think most of the big name autocross people use these things to do trackside adjustments & checks.
One thing here, if you get a pull or steering wheel off center, only one person to get mad at & you can get ahold of that person pretty easily.
 

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Can't wait to hear about the results using the turn plates PCH66. I got motivated by your thread and ordered the Quick Trick alignment kit too but not the plates. I read several reviews stating the front tires would try to scrub when turning left or right due to the caster setting. Please let us know how they work. I am a click away of ordering a set....
Pitts: Good information there.
 

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Pitts64 thanks for the info. I just put everything back together yesterday. I need to adjust the new coil overs up. I’m going to try reinstalling my 1.25 sway bar now that I have hopefully resolved my front end issues. I had purchased the metal turn plates from Quick Trick when I bought the alignment kit. I wanted to get an accurate measurement as possible for my caster. I still need to square up the front and back wheels before doing the toe since everything has removed and replaced several times. Here are a couple of pics, my new Viking coil overs and pic of Elky after setting it down on the ground after install. I have matching wheels for the front 225/50/17. Currently the fronts are 205/70/15. Front end currently sits at 23” at center of fender. Going for 25”-26”. View attachment 129711 View attachment 129712

WOW!! Those UMIs look great! I never heard a bad thing about them. Great company..

Thats one nice 66!!!

Lately I've been running very low negative camber like -.20 with high positive caster, like 8/8.5... Now my car goes nice and straight without that camber thrust throwing it from side to side and the high caster gives it all the camber I could want for excellent handling.. Notice how deep the wheels camber with a lot of caster while parked..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just an update. Been playing with the Quick Trick setup. It’s a pretty simple operation to use. The printed instruction differ from watching the videos. Watching the videos and they attach the level to the vertical bar mounting bracket to measure camber and caster. The printed instructions say to put level on horizontal bar. Of course I get two different readings. Its been a little slow getting things done. Also adjusting the adjustable a-arms is time consuming. Having to unbolt a arms from from cross shafts turn heim joints each time to make adjustment reset the car is a bit time consuming. But once I get it dialed in it won’t be too bad. Currently I have about .90 degree right and 1.10 left neg camber. 8.8 pos caster on left 9.0 pos right. Needless to say steering is very heavy and slow. Good thing about retirement I have plenty of time to work on it and learn along the way. I also bought the turn plates. The ball bearings in the plates make turning wheels real easy. If I could do one thing over again I would buy the nonadjustable a-arms. Just my 2 cents. I do want to say UMI’s products are top quality and their tech dept. is great to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here is a current pic of my Elky’s stance. 225/50/17 on all four corners. 27A8A49D-98FF-47CB-BE02-9D643D17EF30.jpeg 9CEF479D-5485-4500-8CA3-E9C687130BC6.jpeg
 

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Does your floor have to be perfectly level to use this system or will it compensate for the standard garage floor slant?
 

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If its a street car I would back off the camber especially with all that caster. The caster will tilt the wheels the right way when they turn, caster is actually static camber.. The top of the tire should always be pointed in the same direction as the turn.. Also all that camber will make your car want to zig zag when going straight at high speeds..
 

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Does your floor have to be perfectly level to use this system or will it compensate for the standard garage floor slant?
No it does not.
You calibrate the digital level(s) supplied with the kit every time you use them. This way they will read camber angle relative to the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Its not my intention to leave caster at the current setting. I'm still adjusting it. I have been making small increments adjusting heim joints since I have to lift the wheel off the ground high enough to relieve the tension on the bolts. Then lower the car and re-settle the suspension each time. I'm hoping to get it zeroed in this week. RGSS is correct on calibrating to compensate for floor.
 

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PCH, keep the rest of us informed on your progress. I'm interested in whatever you learn and accomplish because the upper A-arms on the frame I'm building for my '87 are SPC adjustables. I'm installing a full suspension package from Savitske Classic and Custom.

Hey can you respond to my post? About rusted frame Thanks man!
 
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