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Director Region 19 Owner of the KLRMino
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Getting ready to drill the holes for the hood pins, and decided to stop. ( thinking do I really want to drill holes into this hood) not really but what other choice do I have?

keep in mind my entire front clip tilts forward, at highway speeds the hood tries to lift, hence the need to do some sort of latch/hood pin etc....

1. I thought about doing some sort of electric hood latch but that would only hold it down in one spot plus I would need to glue/ bond the latch part to the hood, may not last as long or have other issues!

2. linear actuator to raise and lower the front clip, this would take some thinking, location,stroke, bracket ,stuff like that. A linear actuator can’t be pulled out, so it would act as a lock, but the location would be by the pivot point not where the hood is lifting towards the windshield of course. The pivot point is near the nose.

3. old fashioned hood pins, 2 holes, 2 locations of support, but I have to drill into the hood. Pics to show were I’m at.

4. Other Options?


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Would be curious to see the back side of the hood and the front clip lifted. You are probably right about the old-school hood pins being the most secure and cost effective solution, but I'm with you on researching out the best way to go before the drill comes out!

Joe
 

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It seems like the old school pins would be the easiest install and smallest hole put in Hood from this point on.
Is Hood steel or fiberglass?
 

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Director Region 19 Owner of the KLRMino
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Discussion Starter #7
The reason I asked about an underhood view!

Joe
Is there any type of structure on underside of hood near cowl where you could attach/hide something like this?
Or maybe these from Mach 1.
The reason I asked about an underhood view!

Joe
thanks guys, I’ll post some hood and cowl pics tomorrow, but to old bear items, no room to access the Jeep style latch, and I don’t do Ford parts plus that hole would be huge compared to the 1/2 hole I could drill.

what else guys?
 

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Director Region 19 Owner of the KLRMino
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Discussion Starter #8
It seems like the old school pins would be the easiest install and smallest hole put in Hood from this point on.
Is Hood steel or fiberglass?
full glass front end!
 

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I used to install lock pins for car alarms underhood, so something resembling that on the sides, inside the door hinge area would work. Kinda like the slider deadbolts on a gate. Being on the sides, the upwards lifting force would be shear weight, a lot stronger action than fabricating something underneath the hood. Even if you added a bolt plate from outside, a little bit of paint work and the whole thing becomes invisible.

Bonus being nobody gets under the hood unless they bypass however you set it up. Can't lock hood pins effectively.
 

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Director Region 19 Owner of the KLRMino
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Discussion Starter #10
I used to install lock pins for car alarms underhood, so something resembling that on the sides, inside the door hinge area would work. Kinda like the slider deadbolts on a gate. Being on the sides, the upwards lifting force would be shear weight, a lot stronger action than fabricating something underneath the hood. Even if you added a bolt plate from outside, a little bit of paint work and the whole thing becomes invisible.

Bonus being nobody gets under the hood unless they bypass however you set it up. Can't lock hood pins effectively.
Any pics of what your talking about?
 

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full glass front end!
Most of the traditional pin type hood locks use 4 self tapping screws on the scuff plates. With fiberglass hoods, it might be better to use threaded retainers with nuts on the back side. That would prevent possible tear out of self tapping screws.

Amazon has dozens of Hood locks. Some of the keyed locks have scuff plates that are self-contained and do not require the extra 4 holes.
Bf
 

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Director Region 19 Owner of the KLRMino
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Discussion Starter #12
Most of the traditional pin type hood locks use 4 self tapping screws on the scuff plates. With fiberglass hoods, it might be better to use threaded retainers with nuts on the back side. That would prevent possible tear out of self tapping screws.

Amazon has dozens of Hood locks. Some of the keyed locks have scuff plates that are self-contained and do not require the extra 4 holes.
Bf
Yeah I was looking at that also, but also most of the ones on amazon look like they might be to short. I’ll probably get one and see if I can make it work.
 

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Well, with that Huffer and tilt Hood I am sure you will figure something out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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hmmm, I don't se our resident hood opening wizard JLCustomz chiming in.

what about a hood/front end opening system that has positive pressure pushing up via strut rods (to lift when necessary) while you have a strong latched-on cable that reels it back down to close it? you should be able to fit that in easily! and you could even have the cable be able to disconnect while the hood is up so you could work on stuff?
 

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Director Region 19 Owner of the KLRMino
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Discussion Starter #16
hmmm, I don't se our resident hood opening wizard JLCustomz chiming in.

what about a hood/front end opening system that has positive pressure pushing up via strut rods (to lift when necessary) while you have a strong latched-on cable that reels it back down to close it? you should be able to fit that in easily! and you could even have the cable be able to disconnect while the hood is up so you could work on stuff?
that my friend is what a linear actuator could achieve. Would the most costly overall, and would require a lot more thought as to fabricate them in,
 

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I used electric trunk releases from a Saturn ( they are small) on my Tonneau cover. Bet they would work for you. Mount the latch to the underside of the hood, and mount the electric mechanism on the cowl area. Can be electrically released, or manually with a pull cable. I used two of them for the tonneau.


I picked up a variety of the catches at the Pick and Pull, so I could try different fits. As you can see, they can come in some pretty small sizes, while a larger one might also mount easier depending on where the underhood structures are located .


If space is an issue, you can remove the electric solenoid and just use a cable pull.
 
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Director Region 19 Owner of the KLRMino
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Discussion Starter #18
I used electric trunk releases from a Saturn ( they are small) on my Tonneau cover. Bet they would work for you. Mount the latch to the underside of the hood, and mount the electric mechanism on the cowl area. Can be electrically released, or manually with a pull cable. I used two of them for the tonneau.


I picked up a variety of the catches at the Pick and Pull, so I could try different fits. As you can see, they can come in some pretty small sizes, while a larger one might also mount easier depending on where the underhood structures are located .


If space is an issue, you can remove the electric solenoid and just use a cable pull.
Thanks,
thats a possibility, what are the dimensions of that latch?
 

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The latch is 3 1/2" high, 4" wide and 2 1/2" thick. If you remove the electric part, the thickness drops to 1 1/4, and the height is also reduced by maybe 1/2".

The catch side has a lot of variability, but it could be as simple as a 1/4" bolt or rod bent into an L or J shape.
 

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That's sort of exactly what I was describing, except mounted on the sides where up-force would be sheer instead of pull. With the glass hood, all the force would be on whatever was holding the bracket to the hood, while on the sides the force is more on the actual clip itself.

It's easy to pull a half sunk screw out of drywall, it's a different story if trying to move that same screw through the drywall sideways. The way @darbysan has the tonneau latch, the latch is far more secure and stronger bolted to the side than if it was bolted to the top. Sheer weight vs pull weight.
 
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