[ACZ66]

When releasing the clutch, my 66 wants to "hop" a bit. The hood shakes and bounces. I've done some research suggesting anything from worn clutch to motor mounts. Any ideas?? Thanks y'all
btw, the clutch is apx 20 years old, but only has about 10k miles on it, and not raced. stock replacement from Pep Boys

 

[horseman]

More than likely the plate has warped just a bit. Think about bad brake rotors and how they shimmy when applied until you take them down and get them turned. They can do the same with the facing on your clutch. Obviously install a new throwout bearing and clutch plates at the same time.

Good luck!

 

[LOCKJAW]

You need a clutch set. Hopefully, your flywheel isn't scored , cracked or warped. The clutch friction material turns to doo doo over the years. Spend a couple bucks more than Pep Boys wants and get a set from Jegs or Summit. You will get a better set for just a little more.

 

[ACZ66]

thanks for the info guys, sounds like it's time to replace clutch!!! I will check out flywheel when i get around to tearing apart and inspect for gouges and grooves. Another project for the list!!!

 

[ccc]

open the hood and set the parking brake, put it in first slowly release the clutch and watch to see if the engine picks up on the drivers side when you start easing out on the clutch ,dont stall it or smoke the clutch, if the mount is broke it will pick up on the driver side .if ok do the same in reverse and whatch for the same thing on the pass side. if neither side raises up the mounts are sound. next jack up the back of the trans and see if its mount is ok.dont try to raise the car just put enough pressure to see if the rear of the trans comes off of the mount.if that is ok check your bellhousing to engine bolts and trans to bellhousing bolts, it could be the clutch but check everything else first so you dont put a new clutch and have the same issue when done. check your u joints and rear bushings as well

 

[steelybill]

What Carl said.....a broken mount ( the left side) will cause clutch chatter.
Might be a good idea to get the flywheel re-surfaced at an automotive machine shop, if it has deep groves or any colored hot spots. They are sometimes not really flat anymore either, even though they appear to be.

 

[Bryan59EC]

I would think a bad mount in any position could cause an issue.

my 79 Chev-C-10 only chatters in reverse

 

[ACZ66]

Ok, time to revisit this. It vibrates at about 65 mph too, shifter, hood, etc. I have drive line out, tranny mount looked solid, I removed bolts from Tran to bellhousing. Now, what are the next steps to get this clutch out to change it? I'm gonna do u joints while its out too. I havent checked bolts to block yet, but I will. I just need a little help, never done this before, thanks!:dontknow:

 

[CANTED]

Trans pulls straight back, shifter may be a pain getting out of the hump. If the lower cover is there, it comes off next. Bell-housing is next, then take pressure plate off flywheel.

 

[ACZ66]

I can't get that thing to budge. I took 4 bolts out of bellhousing, removed bolts from mounts, sob won't move!

 

[hotrodelco]

While your down there jiggling and wiggling, have someone else push the clutch in and release.
This may sound stupid, but check the body mounts and mounting points, especially the core support.:beer::texas:

 

[ACZ66]

ok, I will have someone press clutch in to release it. I will do that asap and update. Gonna have to wait a day or so though, out of time! Thanks for all the replys, I appreciate all the help. :You_Rock:

 

[steelybill]

Bell housing has 6 bolts if I remember correctly. Two at the top, and two on each side down lower.... Also two dowel alignment pins...which stay in the block.

 

[ACZ66]

steelybill, should I remove the bolts from bellhousing to block now? I thought I could get tranny off bellhousing, then remove bellhouse from block. THis is why I need you guys!

 

[steelybill]

Pull the transmission first. It's too much to handle with the bell housing still bolted to the transmission. If you feel strong, you can remove the trans & muscle it out, then remove the bell housing. If you remove the flywheel, like if it needs to be resurfaced, make sure you get the torque specs when you bolt it back on. Got a torque wrench ? Good thing to have to do it right....
Also, you will need an alignment tool to slide through the clutch disc & into the crank bushing, before torquing the clutch pressure plate bolts. That aligns the disc so that the trans input shaft will slide through the clutch disc when you install the trans.
That alignment tool is usually available at parts stores, and is usually plastic....

Hope some of this helps...:smileyb:

 

[ACZ66]

I haven't bought new clutch, but kit I'm considering has alignment tool. I do have a torque wrench, and will get specs to set correctly. What would be really handy is a lift in my shop! I obtained race pack for shifter and new Tran mount yesterday. Gonna get under it today after work and keep going. I'm sure more questions will follow. Thanks for all advice!

 

[ACZ66]

new questions

First off, thank you all for the help, everything is out, not that hard, just a PIA and a little time consuming, but not bad. Had to drop exhaust to get x member out. Before I order parts, I have a couple questions.
1. The bolts that connect the pplate to the flywheel....4 are shouldered, 2 are not. Is that an issue, or should I try to find shouldered bolts to replace those two?
2. I'm looking at the muscle car series Ram clutch in Summit. Any thoughts?
3. Is there an easy way to tell if my rear seal is leaking? The t/o bearing, bellhousing, tranny, all covered in oil, been leaking a while. The pan is obviously leaking and is on the list, but how do I know if the rear seal is leaking too?
4. One of the bell housing bolts is shorter than the other 5...issue?

Now, with those questions being asked, the clutch was replaced in 1994 by a friend of mine, along with the motor. I didn't help too much, so I don't know if he replaced some bolts or if those are what he started with. There are some more questions, but I need to post some pix along with them, so they must wait.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!! Thank you.

 

[Matty man]

The PP bolts,, I would replace them all, get factory ones (from a vendor) or get the ARP bolts, they are the best even for a stock replacement,, it is a 66 and hard to say how many people have been in there so do it right and get good hardware,, Ram clutch should be a good one,, I have never used them but Summit sels good stuff,, bell housing bolts,, wont be a problem,, but again I would get new hardware as well,, I did not see on this post but I highly, HIGHLY recommend to remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced,, I ground flywheels (and crankshafts) for 10 years and I have seen what looks like a "good" flywheel and it had flat spots, wrapped ect,,, and look at the ring gear (where the starter engages teeth) and any wear have the machine shop swap it out as well,,, I am a firm beleiver in taking the time to do the job right the first time,, and my 66,, well she will get all the above before I throw the drive line back in,, 66`s rule!!!!!! Matty man

 

[moose866]

X2 Matty man,machine the flywheel......no exceptions.Once you have the flywheel off you will be able to see if your rear main seal is leaking.If it is not the front seal of your gearbox may be where all the oil is coming from,its one or the other.You can easily tell by the smell of the oil,gear oil stinks!
Good luck, Acz66,youve done well so far mate!,
Moose.

 

[moose866]

One more thing,i agree with everything you said Matty Man except 69's rule my friend!