Be sure to check the duty cycle of the injectors while tuning at the 8 pound level, I think they may be on the small side when you go up to the 15 pound level, If you haven't bought them yet you may want to look at the 160 lb/hr injectors. I've built a few similar 383s and they are nearly 500hp normally aspirated so I'm thinking 800hp is a conservative est at 15 pounds more likely can hit that number on 8 pounds. now if you are talking rwhp thats another bag of worms.....Dan
Horsepower Predictions? Call it.
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98 Posts
Wow, I bought these 120lb injectors thinking I'd never have to buy another set again. I never thought I'd come close to maxing them out. I'll keep a close eye on it though. The motor should be done next week!
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555 Posts
I'm sure you already know this, but make sure your dyno guy knows boosted stuff. Pay very close attention to the air/fuel ratios, start off conservative with timing and engine rpm. Keep it a little rich. If you add timing, always add fuel.
***READ THE PLUGS, PLUGS DON'T LIE!!***
Keep that thing happy and alive so you can make 900hp....8)
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174 Posts
if that is the af line going over 18 and it was hooked up im surprised it is still alive
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555 Posts
526HP on the ground?
What were the a/f ratios?
How much timing?
How fast are you spinning the blower?
What were the a/f ratios?
How much timing?
How fast are you spinning the blower?
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11,513 Posts
728 HP/ 690 ft lbs, the butler, in the library, with the candlestick
:nanawrench:
:nanawrench:
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1,502 Posts
I hope this is not a street motor...it won't live long above +8 boost...
You have a lot of Cam and Big valves...My guess is that you will not see much under 3500 RPM.
15 pounds of boost... I would hold the pistons to 8:1, you are putting a big reliance on the Fuel here...Real world and Simulators are two different animals...Go lean just a bit and its melt down time for those pistons. Better think of Titanium or Inconel ehhaust valves at 15 boost. You will see other issues with the heads....go with the thickest decks you can find...but nothing that money can't fix...Head Studs are a must on this one. And remember that Aluminum heads expand and contract at a different rate than cast iron blocks, so expect to check torque settings and replace head gaskets regulary.
Also, Waste Heat will be a major factor. The fuel burn you have will release massive heat, about half will go out the exhaust, so expect the first foot of the headers to glow red at 15 boost...25% of the heat is headed for the coolant...So think Massive and electric fans, idle the car cool before shutting it off etc "Heat Soak" will be an issue. I used an electric water pump on the fan thermostat (always hot, not on the ignition side) to circulate and continue to cool the block after shut down. This will require a dual battery system.
The oil will take the next 25%, so go synthetic and change it often! Repeat Often! You will need an oil cooler with a fan...and gauges everywhere. If you have 225F in the pan, you will be over 300F at the bearing
(
The list goes on and on...Big learning curve ahead for you as you go past 10 boost...
Fun to talk about all of this, and play with numbers on the computer....But in reality to be successfull plan to spend twice as much $$$ before this is all over, you are entering a whole new world at anything above +10 boost...
Best put a Rev Limiter on this one, with the Torque and RPM you will be building, miss that 2nd / 3rd shift just once and the whole thing will be in the bag...I know, as I have run Twin Turbos in the past...This kind of Fun never lasts long)
You have a lot of Cam and Big valves...My guess is that you will not see much under 3500 RPM.
15 pounds of boost... I would hold the pistons to 8:1, you are putting a big reliance on the Fuel here...Real world and Simulators are two different animals...Go lean just a bit and its melt down time for those pistons. Better think of Titanium or Inconel ehhaust valves at 15 boost. You will see other issues with the heads....go with the thickest decks you can find...but nothing that money can't fix...Head Studs are a must on this one. And remember that Aluminum heads expand and contract at a different rate than cast iron blocks, so expect to check torque settings and replace head gaskets regulary.
Also, Waste Heat will be a major factor. The fuel burn you have will release massive heat, about half will go out the exhaust, so expect the first foot of the headers to glow red at 15 boost...25% of the heat is headed for the coolant...So think Massive and electric fans, idle the car cool before shutting it off etc "Heat Soak" will be an issue. I used an electric water pump on the fan thermostat (always hot, not on the ignition side) to circulate and continue to cool the block after shut down. This will require a dual battery system.
The oil will take the next 25%, so go synthetic and change it often! Repeat Often! You will need an oil cooler with a fan...and gauges everywhere. If you have 225F in the pan, you will be over 300F at the bearing
( The list goes on and on...Big learning curve ahead for you as you go past 10 boost...
Fun to talk about all of this, and play with numbers on the computer....But in reality to be successfull plan to spend twice as much $$$ before this is all over, you are entering a whole new world at anything above +10 boost...
Best put a Rev Limiter on this one, with the Torque and RPM you will be building, miss that 2nd / 3rd shift just once and the whole thing will be in the bag...I know, as I have run Twin Turbos in the past...This kind of Fun never lasts long
)
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1,502 Posts
One more thing...That intercooler looks real small for 15 boost, better get about 4 of those...an Air Charge Temp Sensor will help with the size requirements...cut & try...
Hit the Tech Support line for everything you use, and tell them about the 15 Boost...Get all the advice you can!
Hit the Tech Support line for everything you use, and tell them about the 15 Boost...Get all the advice you can!
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555 Posts
He already Dyno'd it.
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